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mpshizzle

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LOL... Just do like I did and run jumper cables from my wife's car to my 12V battery.
I'm pretty sure the longest module upgrade is the IPMA which takes about 2.5hrs.
Since the upgrade shuts down all modules during the update the power draw from the battery is very low.
During some of the updates, my car was running the coolant pumps at full speed
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RedDeadRegen

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Ahhh, I see. Thanks!
 

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Any thoughts on whether something like this would do the trick of keeping the 12V battery topped off?

https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GENIUS1...eywords=battery+charger&qid=1634156884&sr=8-4
I used that exact charger, because it is what I had around. It has a 13.6V fixed power supply mode which is good, but only supplies 10A, which is a bit low. In my case I used the AGM mode to fully charge the internal battery (it took 9A for about 15 minutes with everything off), then switched to supply mode, and ran my module updates one at a time. I didn't have any real voltage dip problems (may have hit 12.8V a few times while I was watching), but I didn't have any of the really long updates (like IPMA), and none of my updates ran the cooling pumps. The longest was the SODBM which was about 45 minutes.

So I guess what I'm saying is that it worked, but if you were going to go buy the right thing then buy a higher amperage fixed supply and do it right.
 


i8iridium

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Thanks so much for the write up! Can any of this be used to program a second fob?
This is the tool that’s used but an individual can’t do it unless they have a dealer login or a NASTF account.
 

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I actually don't have one, so I did the giant battery method. It appears others have had success with that as well. Obviously not the best.. but if it's fully charged it seems to be ok ?‍♂

If you want to go with the more legit route, perhaps @breeves002 can chime in here? It sounds like he's got a pretty good setup and might be able to make a power supply recommendation.
Sam used this 15A charger, which wasn't enough by itself: https://www.amazon.com/STANLEY-BC15BS-Automatic-Maintainer-Alternator/dp/B01BM51QD6/ He ended up adding more chargers and jumping to his truck.

I use this, which provides 20A in power supply mode and is usually enough for most programming on other vehicles (it's on sale right now): https://www.amazon.com/Clore-Automotive-PL2320-Battery-Maintainer-20/dp/B007ESQW08/

You can also use a 13.8V Ham radio supply: https://www.amazon.com/Regulated-Designed-Communication-Equipment-Cigarette/dp/B08GSK6CHL/

Some here have bought this, which does 100A but costs significantly more: https://www.amazon.com/Clore-Automotive-PL6100-Charger-Reprogramming/dp/B07ZRQ8Y3W/

Last is the big battery technique of jumping to another 12V battery or another vehicle during programming. If using a battery only, it should be a large deep-cycle type with a reserve capacity (RC) of 180 minutes or more, fully charged before updating.

If your supply is less than 25A, you need to keep an eye on the voltage during programming and be ready to add something more (keep it above 12.0V). The current can vary depending on whether or not the cooling pumps decide to run because those suck up a lot of current. On some vehicles or procedures they don't run and you can get by, other times they run and you will need more amperage. Just have enough things available that can supply 30A combined. You could buy two of the 20A chargers if you don't have anything else.

A reminder on how to connect the chargers, always connect the negative to the jump post or the body ground. Do not connect the (-) cable directly to the battery post because this bypasses the current sensor and will cause issues. It is strongly suggested that you only use the jump posts on the driver's side of the frunk compartment (under the cover) rather than the battery posts.
 
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generaltso

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Is there a legal way to share an FDRS account? I'd be happy to pay $100 for a year of shared access, but $900 is more than I want to spend right now and 2 days of access doesn't seem like enough to justify the cost of the ODB adapter. I'm guessing the answer is no.
 

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If you want to go with the more legit route, perhaps @breeves002 can chime in here? It sounds like he's got a pretty good setup and might be able to make a power supply recommendation.
Hahaha I used a 15A charger for most then had to hook jumper cables up to my truck for the IPMA update.
 

breeves002

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Is there a legal way to share an FDRS account? I'd be happy to pay $100 for a year of shared access, but $900 is more than I want to spend right now and 2 days of access doesn't seem like enough to justify the cost of the ODB adapter. I'm guessing the answer is no.
Yes there is. You can share it with anyone. The only caveat is you have to share the same computer. The license is locked to one computer.
 
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mpshizzle

mpshizzle

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Is there a legal way to share an FDRS account? I'd be happy to pay $100 for a year of shared access, but $900 is more than I want to spend right now and 2 days of access doesn't seem like enough to justify the cost of the ODB adapter. I'm guessing the answer is no.
Keep in mind you can also use the adapter with Forscan. I'm not sure if that helps in your situation at all, but...??
 

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Is there a legal way to share an FDRS account? I'd be happy to pay $100 for a year of shared access, but $900 is more than I want to spend right now and 2 days of access doesn't seem like enough to justify the cost of the ODB adapter. I'm guessing the answer is no.
I bought a power supply and adapter but haven't had a chance to use them yet. My car is in the body shop getting repaired after being rear-ended, the tailgate skin is on back order so it may be a while before it's done.
If you want to make a road trip to the Plymouth, MA area sometime I'd be happy to do the updates if you pay for the 2 day subscription. I'd rather be the guinea pig and make sure everything works on my car first so we could wait till I update it successfully before you drive all the way down. Depending on where you are in Vermont it could be a little farther than you want to drive.
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