The Complete DIY Guide to Updating Your Mach-E with FDRS (Alternative to Forscan)

[generaltso]

Unfortunately ...

Not sure why you're not seeing them in stock, but they are. Maybe try a different browser?

Sponsored

 

[Calvin4000]

Well done, guys... my mistake...

In fact, it depends where the delivery address is set before you query Amazon.com... if it is not set to the US or EU, it shows 'currently unavailable'... as soon as I changed the delivery address to PA, I got '16 left in stock'...

 

[DevSecOps]

Tonight I tried giving this a go on a GTPE and here's my take:

• If you get the Mongoose Ford J5234 be sure not to be like me and google the drivers. You'll probably get the wrong ones. They have 2 websites drewtech.com and opusivs.com. Only the Opus drivers will work. You can get to the correct website by clicking here.
• My GTPE had 2 updates available the PCM and the RFA. The PCM had 4 additional modules getting updated with it.
• Upon loading the software I noticed that I had a number of rear camera faults. Since the camera appears to be working fine to me, I just skipped on past them.

My observations:

• Don't be afraid to remove the plastic for battery access. Yes those clips sound terrible when you pull them off, but it's not that hard, so stop stressing over it.
• The software itself is easy to use to perform the updates.
• My PCM update never would never clear out. In other words, even after the update it showed that I still had an update. I attempted the update again and it just did the "updating database" messages as if it was telling the mothership "this is done already dumbass". It never went away, but after subsequent attempts it wouldn't perform the updates (beyond the first time) so I moved on.
• Once all of the updates were done I had a thousand DTCs logged. I chalked them up as errors during the update process.
• PCM took about 15 minutes for all modules. RFA took about 25-30 minutes.
• It appears as if Ford, and your dealer or whoever else connects to the car, will know that you did the updates. The mothership is notified of every step of the process and your clicks acknowledging every dialog box. It has the username that you created when you made the account. Just something to be aware of.
• If you use a charger like the one I have it requires a 20amp receptacle (horizontal prong) and pulls about 1000w when active.
• PaaK seems to be much improved, but it's too early to guarantee such a crazy idea.

Issues after the updates:

• The first thing I noticed was that the following was cleared out:
  • 1 Pedal was turned off
  • All charging locations cleared
  • Driving behavior cleared
  • Departure times cleared
• I put the car in reverse and got "Reverse Brake Assist Not Available" which I was unable to clear with key cycles or turning on and off the setting for RBA. I was finally able to clear it by toggling the Parking Icon with the traffic cone that appears on the reverse camera display. There's a picture below.
• The car is making a strange fan noise when in any gear other than park. I don't remember it making that noise before. This very well could be a case of hypersensitivity to the update process.
• Previously when I plugged in, the little lights next to the charge port would turn blue, now they stay white until it starts charging. (was i just imagining this being different before?)

Here's some pictures of the process since @mpshizzle didn't take pictures of the updates. It's quite boring so I know why he didn't! And thanks 1000x over for the original post!

Every time the updates started the voltage would dip and this thing kicked in and kept it alive:

The + jump point

The - (body) jump point

The location of the jump points:

It firsts downloads the software

A view of all the warnings:

The actual update process:

Here's the toggle to fix the Reverse Brake Assist error:

Here's a little nugget for all you older than I that wonder why I purchased a $500 charger. This was passed down to me, it's a Rare vintage 12v/6v charger from 1970 (more than a decade before I was born). The few on eBay in similar condition sell for about $200, so I'll get some of that back.

 

[Eric_C_Boston]

One thing I worry about the covers is a couple of clips tend to come off. I have lost one already, so I need to buy some replacements. I plan to modify the covers for battery access.

Another setting that gets cleared is the low battery warning. I thought the 50 miles default was too high for my area, so I set it to 30 miles. It got set back to 50 miles after the update.

 

[DevSecOps]

Another setting that gets cleared is the low battery warning. I thought the 50 miles default was too high for my area, so I set it to 30 miles. It got set back to 50 miles after the update.

Interesting, since I never changed the default I didn't notice that. Thank you.

 

[horsiedad]

One thing I worry about the covers is a couple of clips tend to come off. I have lost one already, so I need to buy some replacements. I plan to modify the covers for battery access.

I drilled access holes to get to the charging points.

 

[Calvin4000]

FYI, quick answer from DrewTech support:

"Also, I wanted to let you know that the main difference between the MongoosePro and MongoosePlus is the new vehicle protocols that the Plus version can work with. Specifically, the MongoosePlus can support CAN FD and DOIP. These are newer model year vehicle protocols that can be seen with GM, Toyota, Mercedes, BMW, and more OE's to come."

 

[MachTee]

One thing I worry about the covers is a couple of clips tend to come off. I have lost one already, so I need to buy some replacements. I plan to modify the covers for battery access.

Another setting that gets cleared is the low battery warning. I thought the 50 miles default was too high for my area, so I set it to 30 miles. It got set back to 50 miles after the update.

I dread removing those clips so much. I actually found an extra one sitting under the front cover when the car was new, so it seems even the factory worker struggle with it. That extra one came in handy though, as when the dealer did some updates on my car one was broken and one was not in place properly. At least I know they followed the direction of plugging in a backup 12V source.

A little tip. Next time if you guys have to pull off those covers, before putting them back, put a dab of grease on each of those clips and on the holes to which they snap into. Makes it slightly less dreadful when opening and closing next time.

 

[SWO]

Sorry if this has already been posted somewhere. For those who want to go the officially supported route, the VCM 3, which can be ordered from Rotunda, is on indefinite backorder due to the chip shortage. I ordered one back in early August, but there is no ETA at this point. Disappointing, but if I'm going to risk warranty coverage and "bricking" issues, I'd rather use the Ford-supported tool. Just my preference though.

Ford lists compatible J2534 pass-thru devices on their website. There's still a disclaimer but it appears they are vetted to some extent.

https://www.motorcraftservice.com/diagnostic/FJDSSupport?categoryId=247

 

[louibluey]

I dread removing those clips so much. I actually found an extra one sitting under the front cover when the car was new, so it seems even the factory worker struggle with it. That extra one came in handy though, as when the dealer did some updates on my car one was broken and one was not in place properly. At least I know they followed the direction of plugging in a backup 12V source.

A little tip. Next time if you guys have to pull off those covers, before putting them back, put a dab of grease on each of those clips and on the holes to which they snap into. Makes it slightly less dreadful when opening and closing next time.

@markboris suggested a bit of silicone grease (dielectric grease for electrical types). Just be careful not to get any on the slot they slide in which is in several cases is already way too loose.

Today, I lost two from the panel under the window, which fortunately were easy to recover from tope surfaces. I also lost two out near the front of the frunk from that side trim panel. Both of those were still in their corresponding lock slot, and turning them 90 degrees, both clips came out easy.

I tried with soft work gloves today, no trim tools. With greased clips, and having opened them so many times, they do come off fine now without trim tools (I would still use a bit of care not to bend any parts).

So, here is my first temporary fix with gaffers tape:

 

[markboris]

I drilled access holes to get to the charging points.

David, not that it's a big deal but I used black caps when I did this mod. They won't stand out as much. Got them on Amazon and they came in a pack of about 20 so if anyone else wants some, let me know and I will send them out (free). I drilled a 2" hole so these are 2" caps.

 

[breeves002]

• My PCM update never would never clear out. In other words, even after the update it showed that I still had an update. I attempted the update again and it just did the "updating database" messages as if it was telling the mothership "this is done already dumbass". It never went away, but after subsequent attempts it wouldn't perform the updates (beyond the first time) so I moved on.

Thanks for the comprehensive post - it should prove helpful to others.

This was my experience. The PCM still to this day says there is an update available but it will not run (been several weeks). I have seen this before on other vehicles including my truck which shows 5 modules have updates but they won't run. It is odd but nothing to worry about in my opinion just some database version error probably.

 

[KevinS]

I drilled a 2" hole so these are 2" caps.

What do you use to connect w/ the 2" hole size?

 

[markboris]

What do you use to connect w/ the 2" hole size?

Hi have a NOCO Boost HD GB70 2000 Amp 12-Volt Jumper/Charger. The jumper cables will fit down in the holes and connect to the terminals. I only did this in case I needed to jump a dead battery. I keep the NOCO in a case, in the cargo area below the floor with the Ford charger cables, tire inflator, sub, cleaning supplies, etc. It is a very small device. Also has USB outlets and a flashlight built in.

 

[Calvin4000]

Hi have a NOCO Boost HD GB70 2000 Amp 12-Volt Jumper/Charger.

Do you mean that you used the NOCO Boost HD with the FDRS instead of a Power supply ?? I am curious.... ?

Sponsored