BMT1071

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How about opening it...I have to have car in park and driver door open to double pull the Frunk open.
Yeah...that's how it's designed.
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RSH

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That is true. I also noticed that. You can't just let the hood drop down. It is quite annoying because if it doesn't fully close, then you need to pull the open latch again to unlock it. You definitely need to use pressure and swing down hard to get that thing to close.
Those with easier frunk closures think we are talking about an"operator issue" - that we just don't know how to close the frunk. This is my second car with a frunk. Pressing it down works on my other car but simply does not work on some MME's, including mine and the demo at my dealership. The dealership lubricated my latch and showed the process of following the closure down with force through closure (not really slamming but still using plenty of force). Ford Corp also acknowledged the issue, hence the bulletin.
 

Carsinmyblood

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It's tight at first of course, it's new. As the rubber sets to it's new shape it'll be a bit easier.

I WANT it to be tight. It's facing face-first into a hurricane. The ultimate intrusion of rain is why there's a drain in the bottom.
 

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Itā€™s a two latch system to open it, so for me itā€™s also a two step system to close it. Lower the hood until the latch engages, then give it a hard push down to seal it. Sorry if Iā€™m not using the right terminology. Yes, it did worry me that the force I have to apply might deform the hood. But it hasnā€™t.
 

will

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can we just refer to the style in which the guy shows in the video as the 'el hefe' ?



it was like the Breaking Bad scene... "I'm the one who knocks closes the frunk!"
 


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How about opening it...I have to have car in park and driver door open to double pull the Frunk open.
I'd much rather just drive it up to like 70mph and have the wind force open it for me instead of pulling a lever inside the vehicle when parked. ???

I guess I don't understand the issue with all this. I've always slammed the hood down on every car I've owned without issues. And I've never been able to open the front hood without stopping the car and pulling a lever. Wind forces against the front of the vehicle at speed are tremendous and can rip the front hood off the car. Safety First, People.
 

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I rather like the percussive music that accompanies the video demo!
 

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It's tight at first of course, it's new. As the rubber sets to it's new shape it'll be a bit easier.

I WANT it to be tight. It's facing face-first into a hurricane. The ultimate intrusion of rain is why there's a drain in the bottom.
One of the early interviews last year discussed the Frunk drain. Working with prototypes they determined they needed to add an air hole to allow the Frunk to close. Before adding the hole, it was too hard because of back pressure caused by that really tight seal they put around the Funk cavity. Some bright engineer had the bright idea to put it on the bottom and make it a drain.
 

Kamuelaflyer

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You're too stupid to own this car; return it at once."
You forgot to add the why he's emoting that part. He wants a Mach-e. He can't find one. If he convinces anyone to return a car ... viola. he's golden.

He's jealous is all. ;)
 
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Kamuelaflyer

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You'll see a mix of both white lithium and Super Lube Synthetic (preferred) on the control arms, bolts and area where they connect to car, hood, and back doors.

It turned very heavy doors into feeling a lot lighter, even if placebo effect.

This has to make it through winters in NJ where they are very liberal with the amount of road salt applied. Frunk closes easier. Used to have to push it close even after slamming down. Now as long as I push it closed, latches every time. I did slather that area up in Synthetic Super Lube.

Found it easier to apply with a glove, apply the lube to your finger, then get in the bonnet close area and apply so it gets to both clasps. The small opening makes it hard to get beyond the first if you apply from the bottle.

These areas are already retaining water and condensation even 24 hours after rain, figured play it safe than sorry where I'm located.

All I know is I won't be here in 12-18 months complaining about a rusted control arm or trunk attachment to the car.

1624640140335.png


No more condensation around the mount. Took care of the pooling in trunk area with a quick cheap ceramic treatment. No need for CQuartz when it's the trunk area. Meguiar's Fast Finish would be just as good.


1624640005930.png


1624640273775.png

Rear Door, lathered up on all 3 areas. Open's easier (possibly placebo effect) and sure as hell won't be having control arm issues this winter.

Can get a video of me shutting the hood, it used to be a two step process (slam then push down for second click) now I just slam the sucker closed.
The grease isn't a bad idea regardless of where you live. All sorts of things can help speed corrosion along. And since I live on an island surround by a large salt water ocean, I'll be doing this too.
 

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Well my hood requires far more effort than this to close. I have to use the CPR method where after it closes i have take both hands and push firmly down to latch. Impossible to close it with any amount of downward force from fully open. Perhaps I need to have the dealer adjust or realign the latch? Iā€™ll have to try making a video to demonstrate (with same expression as the guy in the Ford video).
 

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Just add some Synthetic Super Lube if you're in a hotter climate to avoid it becoming a bit runny, otherwise White Lithium works great.

Per Synthetic Super Lube it meshes well with other lubricants, so I have sort of a hybrid white lithium and super lube going. Prefer the super lube more as it's more viscous.

Once you add a bit to the latch, close it slightly, then lift & look for where it makes contact.

Get a glob on your finger and apply going in the latch area. The tube won't make it in.

Once you apply a liberal amount, open and close it 4-5 times. You should then be able to push it shut without any further issues.

Video pre-dates the instruction video, otherwise I would've rigged up a tripod.
 

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BMT1071

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A flux brush, or a Q-tip, works great as an applicator.
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