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Mach-Lee

Mach-Lee

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I experienced this fault once. After removing the plug I got an alert and the engine did not start, the display was on but the car was stuck. I called FordPass assistance and while I was explaining the issue my car started again after 10 min.

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That’s a different issue, this shouldn’t generate a wrench icon. Could have been a gear shift fault which resets like that after a key cycle.

 

Tanwin

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Mine just did this with the ford charger
 

Logal727

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Do you think ford makes their own EVSE? Heck, most of the car isn’t made by ford lol.
Grizzl-e is a solid unit.
Yeah I actually talked to United Chargers about this issue, their answer was basically there isn’t a spec for the tolerances that cause this issue and some EVs are different than others, but seems like they got it more averages out now
 


P. T. Magoo

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I have a Grizzl-e charger and never had an issue with the fit of the charging handle into the charge port, but replaced the original cord with the cord from a 40-foot extension, as I sometimes like to charge the car outside the garage when I'm puttering around inside, and this makes the cord long enough to do that. I just cut off the cord at the female end and replaced the connectors with connectors for inside the Grizzle-e box. The most interesting part of this project was obtaining a crimper with insanely long handles to crimp those big meaty connectors in place. I could theoretically make the original Grizzle-e cord into a 20-foot extension cord now, but I kind of lost interest after the main part of the project.

The new, longer cord has larger gauge wire than the original cord, so as an added bonus my charging cord and conductors stay cooler on a hot day while I'm doing a long 40-amp charging session. While the original Grizzl-E cord fit easily into the car's charge port, the new one is a tight fit Always goes in fully though and no experience with this fault, even with the longer, tighter-fitting cord.
 

markboris

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I have a Grizzl-e charger and never had an issue with the fit of the charging handle into the charge port, but replaced the original cord with the cord from a 40-foot extension, as I sometimes like to charge the car outside the garage when I'm puttering around inside, and this makes the cord long enough to do that. I just cut off the cord at the female end and replaced the connectors with connectors for inside the Grizzle-e box. The most interesting part of this project was obtaining a crimper with insanely long handles to crimp those big meaty connectors in place. I could theoretically make the original Grizzle-e cord into a 20-foot extension cord now, but I kind of lost interest after the main part of the project.

The new, longer cord has larger gauge wire than the original cord, so as an added bonus my charging cord and conductors stay cooler on a hot day while I'm doing a long 40-amp charging session. While the original Grizzl-E cord fit easily into the car's charge port, the new one is a tight fit Always goes in fully though and no experience with this fault, even with the longer, tighter-fitting cord.
John, I did the same thing, replaced the cord on my ChargePoint HomeFlex with a 40 foot. Now, no matter which side I park in the garage, I can charge the car. Also have the same experience in that the new cord doesn't get as warm as the original one because of the heavier gauge wire. The new plug fit tight at first but after awhile it loosened up and now is easy to plug in.
 

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Yeah I actually talked to United Chargers about this issue, their answer was basically there isn’t a spec for the tolerances that cause this issue and some EVs are different than others, but seems like they got it more averages out now
The person that told you that is either ignorant of the J1772 spec or lying.

2334DA64-7CE7-4936-84A8-20271DFA4C53.jpeg
 

EasyPass

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Note: This TSB is written by me, not Ford. I've seen this issue in a dozen vehicles now.

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Issue: The user may experience a "Charge station fault" error and a flashing red ring indicator on the charge port 30 seconds after plugging in a Level 1 or Level 2 charger (J1772 plug). A P0D56:24 code will be set in the SOBDM. On some vehicles, a 12V drain may also occur after this fault is set until the plug is removed. If the user does not address the charge station fault and leaves the plug in, the 12V battery may drain in the next several hours, generating additional errors and/or starting issues. This issue is caused by operator error or a dimensionally incorrect J1772 that does not fully insert and latch into the charging port. NOTE: This is issue often associated with Grizzl-E brand chargers.

Resolution: Advise the user to always ensure the the J1772 plug is fully inserted until the latch clicks, and verify a blue indicator is shown on the charge port before walking away. If the J1772 plug is not easily to push in and latch, it may be dimensionally incorrect and defective. Advise the user to replace the EVSE cord. The charge port locking pin should also be inspected for damage per TSB 22-2345.

Tip: If this issue occurs, you must fully unplug and replug to clear the fault and resume charging!

Explanation: The J1772 handle contains an internal switch (S3) that is opened when the release button is pressed. If the plug is not fully inserted into the charge port, the latch will be lifted up on the ramp which prevents the S3 switch from closing (the release button won't come up fully). The car reads the status of this switch through the plug and sets a P0D56:24 code after 30 seconds if the S3 switch still hasn't closed (no charging will occur). On some vehicles (due to bad software?) the setting of this charge fault will cause the vehicle to stay awake and drain the 12V battery until the plug is removed. Many people will plug in and walk away without verifying the status lights, and will miss the error message that comes 30 seconds after plugging in. As mentioned above I've seen this issue happen primarily with Grizzl-E chargers, it seems they may have a dimension tolerance issue with their J1772 plugs that makes them a very tight fit, so this issue is much more likely to occur.

Suggestion: Ford, change the timing on this error from 30 seconds to 3 seconds so the user sees it before they walk away. Maybe add a honk in case they are walking away and there is a problem with the J1772 connection. Also change your fault handling (if you haven't yet) so the car goes to sleep while the charge error is active.

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For what its worth as a tangential reference, many months ago I dropped the J-Plug of the Ford Mobile EVSE on my garage floor and the plastic latch arm inside the plug broke off 2/3 of the way inside. I was afraid that the damaged physical interface would create a fault condition with this situation when plugging in or out.

I decided to always hold the external release button in when pushing the J-Plug into the socket. In this way the proximity pin in the plug is retracted to start. Once fully inserted I release the external button, which then puts the proximity pin into the socket for detection. When finished charging I always press the release button first before removal just like as if the internal latch arm was engaged. This pulls the proximity pin out of the socket before extraction of the J-Plug. I have not had any issues with this procedure since.
 
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Mach-Lee

Mach-Lee

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For what its worth as a tangential reference, many months ago I dropped the J-Plug of the Ford Mobile EVSE on my garage floor and the plastic latch arm inside the plug broke off 2/3 of the way inside. I was afraid that the damaged physical interface would create a fault condition with this situation when plugging in or out.

I decided to always hold the external release button in when pushing the J-Plug into the socket. In this way the proximity pin in the plug is retracted to start. Once fully inserted I release the external button, which then puts the proximity pin into the socket for detection. When finished charging I always press the release button first before removal just like as if the internal latch arm was engaged. This pulls the proximity pin out of the socket before extraction of the J-Plug. I have not had any issues with this procedure since.
Bring it to the dealer and mention SSM 51146 so you can get a replacement.
 

Logal727

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The person that told you that is either ignorant of the J1772 spec or lying.

2334DA64-7CE7-4936-84A8-20271DFA4C53.jpeg
I may have worded it wrong, it was the owner actually. They gave me a reason why they had issues with some. I’ll have to find it.
 

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I may have worded it wrong, it was the owner actually. They gave me a reason why they had issues with some. I’ll have to find it.
I'd like to hear if they have a solution to this. My Grizzl-E has always been tight, but I haven't had an issue. Maybe they have a better design now?
 

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I bought a Grizzl-E charger, and it was a giant step up from the OEM charger. Think that it may even charge faster than the OEM. So far (Knock on wood) no issues,
 

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I bought a Grizzl-E charger, and it was a giant step up from the OEM charger. Think that it may even charge faster than the OEM. So far (Knock on wood) no issues,
I’m having one installed as I write this. I don’t have my ‘23 yet, obviously, so it’ll be a bit before I know whether I’ll have issues. Just hoping their CS is helpful if I do because I bought through Amazon instead of direct.
 

mkhuffman

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I bought a Grizzl-E charger, and it was a giant step up from the OEM charger. Think that it may even charge faster than the OEM. So far (Knock on wood) no issues,
Yes, it charges at 40 Amps while the Ford supplied EVSE charges at 32 Amps. You will notice the increase in charging speed.

 

 
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