MachTheKnife

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My first Grizzl E ordered in ~July had this issue. It would fault the car like crazy. I thought it was the car but the ford mobile charger worked like a charm. Got a replacement unit thru Grizzl E and it’s been good ever since
OMG, your dog rides a motorcycle, too? We have club for biker dogs. We should connect!
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Shayne

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I can confirm that this is an issue. I have a Grizzl-E charger and often I have to wiggle the connection or unplug and plug in again to avoid the issue. I wait until I see blue lights before I walk away.
I have the grizzle extreme and never had such a problem as it is the one thing in my charging set up that has worked. I know when the 12v dies that the red rings can appear during the vehicles last gasp but never after just plugging it in. Thinking as the 12v dies it gets confused and throws the error. Does not sound like a dumb charger problem but more like a problem with the car.
 
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Mach-Lee

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I have the grizzle extreme and never had such a problem as it is the one thing in my charging set up that has worked. I know when the 12v dies that the red rings can appear during the vehicles last gasp but never after just plugging it in. Thinking as the 12v dies it gets confused and throws the error. Does not sound like a dumb charger problem but more like a problem with the car.
It takes 30 seconds before the red rings show up, and I think I've seen this code in your car before Shane. On the contrary, I think some of your 12V issues are being caused by the Grizzl-E, so check for the blue flash to verify a good connection after plugging in every time.
 

Shayne

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It takes 30 seconds before the red rings show up, and I think I've seen this code in your car before Shane. On the contrary, I think some of your 12V issues are being caused by the Grizzl-E, so check for the blue flash to verify a good connection after plugging in every time.
Sure the charger did it but it is funny how it happened the first week I owned it and I was using the ford mobile charger. Then the second time 200 some miles away again with the ford mobile. Than the third time on the grizzle. Every time after a couple of days parked. That’s the car for me not the two chargers that charged the car than 30 hours later the 12v dies and charge fault shows up.
 

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I have hopes for a precharge contact and a hvjb replacement fixed it. A week of sub 0c here and the car now reports in daily with “preparing for drive”. That is new and so far so good. It does not draw for 10 hours either which is good. Testing will tell but pretty sure not a charger problem here.
 


FordFamily

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Note: This TSB is written by me, not Ford. I've seen this issue in a dozen vehicles now.

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Issue: The user may experience a "Charge station fault" error and a flashing red ring indicator on the charge port 30 seconds after plugging in a Level 1 or Level 2 charger (J1772 plug). A P0D56:24 code will be set in the SOBDM. On some vehicles, a 12V drain may also occur after this fault is set until the plug is removed. If the user does not address the charge station fault and leaves the plug in, the 12V battery may drain in the next several hours, generating additional errors and/or starting issues. This issue is caused by operator error or a dimensionally incorrect J1772 that does not fully insert and latch into the charging port. NOTE: This is issue often associated with Grizzl-E brand chargers.

Resolution: Advise the user to always ensure the the J1772 plug is fully inserted until the latch clicks, and verify a blue indicator is shown on the charge port before walking away. If the J1772 plug is not easily to push in and latch, it may be dimensionally incorrect and defective. Advise the user to replace the EVSE cord. The charge port locking pin should also be inspected for damage per TSB 22-2345.

Tip: If this issue occurs, you must fully unplug and replug to clear the fault and resume charging!

Explanation: The J1772 handle contains an internal switch (S3) that is opened when the release button is pressed. If the plug is not fully inserted into the charge port, the latch will be lifted up on the ramp which prevents the S3 switch from closing (the release button won't come up fully). The car reads the status of this switch through the plug and sets a P0D56:24 code after 30 seconds if the S3 switch still hasn't closed (no charging will occur). On some vehicles (due to bad software?) the setting of this charge fault will cause the vehicle to stay awake and drain the 12V battery until the plug is removed. Many people will plug in and walk away without verifying the status lights, and will miss the error message that comes 30 seconds after plugging in. As mentioned above I've seen this issue happen primarily with Grizzl-E chargers, it seems they may have a dimension tolerance issue with their J1772 plugs that makes them a very tight fit, so this issue is much more likely to occur.

Suggestion: Ford, change the timing on this error from 30 seconds to 3 seconds so the user sees it before they walk away. Maybe add a honk in case they are walking away and there is a problem with the J1772 connection. Also change your fault handling (if you haven't yet) so the car goes to sleep while the charge error is active.

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FordFamily

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Mach-Lee:
I have a different tale of woe. I use a 2013 Leviton home charging station: 3.8 kW, 16A. First purchased for my 2013 plug-in Hybrid Cmax. Then in 2019 I got rid of the (albeit first year) multi-problem piece of junk and leased a Leaf. (waiting for Ford). The charger worked fine till the lease ended. My MME arrived October 7, 2022. The J1772 plug was snug but it could be forced a bit, rarely with a required push to connect and click. Tonight it's so tight I cannot get it to connect, even with a hardy push in. All the connectors look fine, as they do on the car. Cannot get it to connect, period.

I opened the rear floor and unpacked the Ford charging cable for the first time. (I am need of a charge, even if slow 110V). Slipped in nicely. But didn't click. The hook is busted off. It's plastic!!! So back to the dealer to get a replacement.

Anybody else have tight J1772 problems (other than the Grizzl-e)? Replacement plug and 25' cable for the home Leviton charger lists at $800! Any other ideas, short of replacing the whole unit, or just the plug (~$100) which looks on video like a difficult replacement project? And I found an EVgo that was very tight (had to be pushed in), but an Electrify America that just slipped in nicely.

Is the trouble with the car charge port?
 

Murse-In-Airy

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@Mach-Lee
Would the P0D56:24 code show up with an OBDII reader? Or would I need a full FDRS subscription to see it?

Reason: Wife’s car has no ring lights when charging with any of my EVSE now. Both my Grizzl-e’s stop charging her car after about an hour (but both work fine for my car.). Once even the included EVSE stopped charging her car. Wondering if it is this issue but didn’t see the code with a cheap OBDII reader. And the fact that there are no ring lights at all unless there is a fault seems that my problem goes beyond your TSB.
 
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Mach-Lee

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@Mach-Lee
Would the P0D56:24 code show up with an OBDII reader? Or would I need a full FDRS subscription to see it?

Reason: Wife’s car has no ring lights when charging with any of my EVSE now. Both my Grizzl-e’s stop charging her car after about an hour (but both work fine for my car.). Once even the included EVSE stopped charging her car. Wondering if it is this issue but didn’t see the code with a cheap OBDII reader. And the fact that there are no ring lights at all unless there is a fault seems that my problem goes beyond your TSB.
No, it won't work with a generic OBDII reader. You don't need FDRS, but you do need a Bluetooth OBDII adapter (such as an OBDLink) with an app like FORScan or Car Scanner to read the codes from the SOBDM.
 

Murse-In-Airy

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No, it won't work with a generic OBDII reader. You don't need FDRS, but you do need a Bluetooth OBDII adapter (such as an OBDLink) with an app like FORScan or Car Scanner to read the codes from the SOBDM.
Ok. Thank You. I think I’ve narrowed it down to a problem with the charging port itself. White ring lights work. Red flashing ring lights work. Blue ring lights don’t work at all. Both my Grizzl-e EVSEs will charge my GT @ 40 amps. Her Premium will charge at 32 amps on Ford Mobile Charger or either Grizzl-E. But if I set either Grizzl-E to 40 amps, her car will charge for about 45 minutes and then stop. Won’t throw a charge fault until I start the car. Confirmed her car will also DCFC today. Just no blue ring lights and stopping any 40 amp charge.
 
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Mach-Lee

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Ok. Thank You. I think I’ve narrowed it down to a problem with the charging port itself. White ring lights work. Red flashing ring lights work. Blue ring lights don’t work at all. Both my Grizzl-e EVSEs will charge my GT @ 40 amps. Her Premium will charge at 32 amps on Ford Mobile Charger or either Grizzl-E. But if I set either Grizzl-E to 40 amps, her car will charge for about 45 minutes and then stop. Won’t throw a charge fault until I start the car. Confirmed her car will also DCFC today. Just no blue ring lights and stopping any 40 amp charge.
This is indicative of a failed charge port that is overheating. Inspect for pin damage: https://www.macheforum.com/site/attachments/83afbfcc-fdb8-4b51-8795-48779af0354d-jpeg.51000/ (left pin melted)
 

azerik

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I'm dealing with this right now, thanks for the Lee-SB Google turned up for me. I'll go play the shuffle game again here in a minute. Mine stopped working well yesterday during the day. High humidity but not tight J1772. But while I was eyeing the pins in the handle last night I dropped and broke the thing. Epoxied it back, the switch might not be getting triggered. Which explains my FFE charging fine. My handle clicks, but not with a thor a tay.
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