markboris

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For a parts list and instructions on how to adapt the Koni shocks to fit the Mach-E (non GTPE) scroll down to UPDATE

For instructions on how to replace the shocks, Erik posted a video here #388

There are thousands of Mach-E owners that are very happy with the ride, then there are those that believe it is the worst riding car they have ever owned and then there are those in-between. One thing for sure, it has been a hot topic on this forum as evidence from one of the longest running threads we have ( #1 ).

There are so many variables with this issue and that's why I think we have a big discrepancy. Some owners with the magneride suspension love it and have no issues, others think it could definitely be improved, myself for starters. The non-magneride models are all different depending on standard battery, extended battery, RWD, AWD. Then we have the tires which really do make a difference on how the car rides as has been stated many times by owners, me included. Above all, there are the various types of roads everyone drives on. I have absolutely no roads anywhere within 2 hours of where I live that induce any bouncing and yet some owners have to drive over these types of roads every day. I can go on and on but these things have been beaten to death so I'm going to stop here.

I'm not any type of a suspension expert while many here are (Steve HuntingPudel for one) but wanted to set out to see what I could do to tame the bouncing of this car. I know if you put 6 or more cases of water in the cargo area, the bounce literally disappears. This tells me the car has very firm springs in the rear, as it should to handle the extra weight of a fully loaded car of passengers and cargo. However, when the car is not weighted down, over certain road conditions, it can bounce like the empty bed of a truck. I figured maybe what I could do is replace the springs with air bags and see how that goes. While I did have a great ride with a full air bag suspension, virtually no bounce, I had a lot of other issues that needed to be addressed in customizing brackets and spacers and after one month of doing this, I didn't feel like going at it any further ( #1 ). I could have gone the coil over route (KW make an excellent kit) but that is more on the expensive side for those who just want to try and soften their bucking pony driving to work.

Sticking with the OEM springs, the only other thing we can do to try and tame the ride is change out the shocks. Again, while I am not a suspension expert, I feel the shocks are not firm enough to settle the springs down fast enough. So, I set out to find shocks that would closely match our rear OEM's which I did and I'm testing them out with Anton (eidbanger) on his Premium with OEM wheels and tires. He does have aftermarket wheels and tires which actually make the ride a bit better but changed to the OEM's to keep it more fare since most people don't change their wheels and tires.

Last week, I posted on fitting & testing rear shocks in the bounce thread but thought I should start a new thread. ( #1,322 ) << Please read this post as it explains more about this project with photos.
This post explains a little more about the particular shocks ( #1,325 )

Today, Anton had a bit of time so I went over to his place and installed the Koni's in his premium. Now, I am not use to Anton's car and he will be posting explaining in more detail how it rode and he will also have some data as he monitored each run with some type of motion app (not sure what it was). On the softest setting, they were worse than the OEM shocks. On the middle setting he said it was possiblely a bit better than OEM. Then went to the firmest setting and he had a huge smile on his face and said, my back end is barely bouncing. Again he will post here and explain in more detail with data but I know he would not let me take the shocks off the car. 😊 He wants to drive around with them for a week at which time I will go back down to his place and we will swap the Koni's for the Bilstein's.

On another note, we took my car out on the same stretch of bouncy road to see how the magneride did. With my car set to Unbridled, we both had a hard time finding a difference but decided if we had to pick, it would be the Koni's. Going over speed bumps at a slow speed, the Koni't definitely had the advantage as the rear went up, down and settled where as the magneride has a slight second bounce (which is why I think Ford needs to improve the tuning of the magneride VDM module).

Sorry for this long winded post. I wasn't sure even if changing out just the rear shocks would make a difference but it definitely does.

Both Anton and I will be adding to this thread as we do more testing. I think he may even post some charts off his motion app. He is backed up with work so don't expect him to post for at least a few days to a week.

I want to mention the Erik (azerik) is also working on some QA1 rear shocks and we are anxious to hear what his results are.



UPDATE:

Between myself, Anton, Erik, and Lee, we are done testing. I've stated before and so have others, the Mach-E will NEVER have a cushy, luxury ride. The suspension does not have enough travel for that. Changing out the rear OEM shocks to the Koni’s adjusted to the most firm rebound setting seems to greatly reduce or in some cases eliminate the bouncy ride in the rear BUT the ride will be a bit more firm. I personally like the a firm ride and so does Anton and Erik. I’ve also stated many many times, these might not be for everyone. If you want to reduce the bouncy ride in the rear, this should work for you. If you are looking for a Lincoln soft ride, that will never happen and in fact will firm up the ride a bit.

All of this said, if you are interested in changing out the OEM shocks for a pair of Koni Yellow Sport adjustable shocks, until they come out with a dedicated shock made for the Mach-E, I will list below what you will need. This is only for the rear shocks because as of now, nothing is available for the front struts and I will not be trying to work on that anytime soon. We have talked with Koni several times and hope they will be coming out with a full setup in the future.

There are two ways you can do this. Either buy all the parts needed to adapt this model Koni shock to the Mach-E leaving the OEM shocks untouched. Or use the upper mount from any OEM rear shock and bumper stop from the OEM GT shocks which will save some money. You cannot use the bumper stop from anything but the OEM GT shocks as all the other model's bumper stops are not large enough to fit over the rod on the Koni shocks. They can be modified but it is not worth doing.

List of parts needed:

(2) Koni adjustable shocks PART: 8241 1240Sport

(2) Ford upper shock support PART: LJ9Z-18A161-A (not needed if taken from OEM shocks)

(2) Steeda bumper stops PART: 555-4452 (not needed if taken from OEM GT shocks)

(2) SS spacers 19 mm OD, 15 mm long for M12 screw size (McMaster-Carr Part: 92871A372)

(2) SS spacers 19 mm OD, 25 mm long for M12 screw size (McMaster-Carr Part: 92871A374)

(4) SS washers Oversized 1.5" OD for 1/2" screw size (McMaster-Carr Part: 91525A337)

The Koni's can be purchased from many online retailers. Amazon, Summit Racing, Steeda, American Muscle, Shockwarehouse, BMR Suspension, etc. I have been using Summit Racing for many years and they are my preferred parts house to get these. At the time of this post, they were on sale for $182.34 each and there is no shipping or handling fees, just tax.

About the bump stops, I prefer the Steeda’s because they are heavy duty compared to the OEM’s, already cut to the proper height and fit into the top cap of the Koni dust cover cap better.

The spacers and washers should to be stainless steel for good corrosion resistance. While I listed part numbers for these from McMaster (https://www.mcmaster.com/), you might be able to find them from a hardware store but I found that to be a hit and miss the several I went to.

If I were to make a video on modifying the Koni's to fit with these few parts, it would probably be no more than 10 minutes but I'm not into making videos. Instead, I took quite a few photos with explanations so hopefully it is clear to everyone.


Koni shock as it comes out of the box

Ford Mustang Mach-E UPDATED: Replacing Rear Shocks: Reducing the rear end bounce. IMG_5041


Slide the dust cover off the shock and with a flat blade screwdriver in the hole of the metal cap, pull it out.

Ford Mustang Mach-E UPDATED: Replacing Rear Shocks: Reducing the rear end bounce. IMG_5042


Steeda bump stops

Ford Mustang Mach-E UPDATED: Replacing Rear Shocks: Reducing the rear end bounce. IMG_5093


Push the Steeda bump stop into the metal cap and snap it back into the dust cover.

Ford Mustang Mach-E UPDATED: Replacing Rear Shocks: Reducing the rear end bounce. IMG_5043


Ford Mustang Mach-E UPDATED: Replacing Rear Shocks: Reducing the rear end bounce. IMG_5045 (1)


If you want to use the bump stop from the OEM shock, you need to remove the upper mount. Pry off the black cap on the upper mount and with a 13 mm socket, remove the nut from the inside of the mount. Lift off the mount and slide the dust cover off the rod.

Ford Mustang Mach-E UPDATED: Replacing Rear Shocks: Reducing the rear end bounce. IMG_5088


Ford Mustang Mach-E UPDATED: Replacing Rear Shocks: Reducing the rear end bounce. IMG_5092


Ford Mustang Mach-E UPDATED: Replacing Rear Shocks: Reducing the rear end bounce. IMG_5047


Push down on the white plastic spacer at the top and it will fall out of the dust cover. Pull the bump stop out of the white plastic spacer and push into the Koni metal cap if you want to use this one instead of the Steeda.

Ford Mustang Mach-E UPDATED: Replacing Rear Shocks: Reducing the rear end bounce. IMG_5048


Ford Mustang Mach-E UPDATED: Replacing Rear Shocks: Reducing the rear end bounce. IMG_5050


OEM and Steeda bump stops for comparison

Ford Mustang Mach-E UPDATED: Replacing Rear Shocks: Reducing the rear end bounce. IMG_5049


Slide the dust cover back onto the Koni shock and push it down until the metal cap bottoms out on the rod collar.

Ford Mustang Mach-E UPDATED: Replacing Rear Shocks: Reducing the rear end bounce. IMG_5041 (1)


The hole in the upper mount needs to be enlarge using a 1/2" drill bit.

Ford Mustang Mach-E UPDATED: Replacing Rear Shocks: Reducing the rear end bounce. IMG_5051


Ford Mustang Mach-E UPDATED: Replacing Rear Shocks: Reducing the rear end bounce. IMG_5052


Upper shock mount with the two spacers needed to assemble

Ford Mustang Mach-E UPDATED: Replacing Rear Shocks: Reducing the rear end bounce. IMG_5053


Slide on the 25 mm long spacer on the shock rod

Ford Mustang Mach-E UPDATED: Replacing Rear Shocks: Reducing the rear end bounce. IMG_5054


Install the upper mount and slide the 15 mm long spacer over the shock rod

Ford Mustang Mach-E UPDATED: Replacing Rear Shocks: Reducing the rear end bounce. IMG_5055


Place the lock washer and nut provided with the Koni's on the rod end. While holding the end of the shock rod (not the adjusting tab) with a 9 mm wrench, tighten the nut with a 19 mm wrench to 20 ft lbs.

Ford Mustang Mach-E UPDATED: Replacing Rear Shocks: Reducing the rear end bounce. IMG_5056


When all tightened, you should have a very slight gap between the top of the dust cover and the bottom of the upper mount

Ford Mustang Mach-E UPDATED: Replacing Rear Shocks: Reducing the rear end bounce. IMG_5058


If you were to pull down on the dust cover, it would snap off of the metal cap and you can see what it looks like underneath. There is a minimum of 1" more travel on these shocks than the OEM's. You can easily push the cover back up on the metal cap.

Ford Mustang Mach-E UPDATED: Replacing Rear Shocks: Reducing the rear end bounce. IMG_5057 (1)


Take the supplied adjusting dial and turn clockwise (-) all the way until it stops. It is usually at this setting from the factory. Now turn counterclockwise (+) 2 full turns. This is the maximum rebound setting. Do not turn more than 2 full turns otherwise damage to the shock may occur.

Ford Mustang Mach-E UPDATED: Replacing Rear Shocks: Reducing the rear end bounce. IMG_5060


The black plastic cover on top of the upper mount needs to be altered to fit. First cut the tabs off just below where they protrude out. Then drill a 3/8" hole in the middle at the top.

Ford Mustang Mach-E UPDATED: Replacing Rear Shocks: Reducing the rear end bounce. IMG_5091


Ford Mustang Mach-E UPDATED: Replacing Rear Shocks: Reducing the rear end bounce. IMG_5061


Ford Mustang Mach-E UPDATED: Replacing Rear Shocks: Reducing the rear end bounce. IMG_5062


Lightly push the cap on the top of the mount and then using a rubber mallet, tap on it to seat flat down on the mount. The adjustment tab will protrude out from the cap and is still able to be adjusted if you haven't done so already.

Wanted to mention about the adjuster poking out of the top of the cap. I could have used a longer spacer below the mount which would keep the adjuster within the cap and no hole would need to be drilled. The problem is there would be a 1/4" gap between the top of the dust cover and the mount for debris to easily get in. While this should not be an issue since the OEM shocks have a gap there, I wanted to minimize it.

To seal the area around the adjuster tab, I could have drilled a larger hole and put a small cap in the hole, over the adjuster but that is just one more part to find/purchase. Erik and Lee both suggested to just put a dab of RTV silicone over the adjuster tab after making sure it was adjusted properly. I don't show a photo with RTV silicone over the adjuster tab.

Ford Mustang Mach-E UPDATED: Replacing Rear Shocks: Reducing the rear end bounce. IMG_5063


Ford Mustang Mach-E UPDATED: Replacing Rear Shocks: Reducing the rear end bounce. IMG_5064


The two oversized stainless steel washers are needed to take up space on either side of the lower mount because of the slight gap between the lower mount and the lower control arm. Depending on the thickness of the washers you buy, you may need to use three, one on one side and two on the other. The bolt shown in the photo is the factory lower mounting bolt. I have placed it in the shock with a washer on either side to show what it should look like when installed. This is actually the tedious part of the install trying to place those washers in-between the lower shock mount and the lower control arm while sliding in the bolt. It takes a little finesse and sometimes a few choice words. 😊

Ford Mustang Mach-E UPDATED: Replacing Rear Shocks: Reducing the rear end bounce. IMG_5066


Ford Mustang Mach-E UPDATED: Replacing Rear Shocks: Reducing the rear end bounce. IMG_5067


It should take 30 minutes (or less) to adapt both Koni shocks as shown above.

I won't be making up sets of these Koni shocks like I have for the forum testers so please do not ask me to do so.

I don't have time to take my car apart to show the shock install process as I am leaving for Europe and won't be back until the end of this month. Erik will be posting some photos on how the shock installs and it's quite easy. Anton, Erik and I have changed several sets of rear shocks on our cars and it takes us about 30 min total for both sides. If you are doing this for the first time, allow about 45-60 min.

Here is a brief description on replacing the rear shocks. With a floor jack, raise up the rear on one side and place a jack stand under the car in the proper location. Using a 21 mm socket and ratchet, remove the wheel. Using an 18 mm socket and ratchet with a long extension (unless you have power tools), unscrew the two top support bolts holding the shock on. The shock is gas pressurized and will want to stay in position because of two little tabs. With a large flat blade screw driver, pry the upper mount out of the holding area it is in. Or if you are really strong, push down on the shock and the upper mount will pop out. With a 15mm socket and ratchet, unscrew the bolt holding the lower support of the shock (you don't need to hold on to the nut on the opposite side as it is tabbed to the lower control arm). Lift out the shock. Reinstall the in the reverse order. Lower bolt goes in first (with the oversized washers on either side of the shock mount), then the two upper mount bolts. The upper shock mount will be a bit low (1/4" - 1/2” depending on the model of MME), so use the floor jack to raise up the lower control arm so the upper bolts go in easily. The torque specs for all of these mounting bolts is 81 ft. lbs. The torque specs on the wheels is 150 ft. lbs. While this may sound like a lot of work, or difficult, it really isn't and you will see when Erik posts photos (or video). Of course, you can always have an auto repair shop change out the shocks for you.

As I have stated many times before, every road is different and people all perceive the ride in their car differently. I will not say that this will fix the type of ride you have but from what we have experienced, it mellows out the bounce in the rear on the roads we have tested it on. Erik has tested them more throughly than anyone else so please direct your questions about ride towards him (azerik).

Good luck to everyone and looking forward to what your experiences are.
 
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mkhuffman

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While I don't have a serious problem with the rear bounce in my GT, I am seriously considering doing this mod especially after you guys try out the Bilstein shocks.

Great post!
 

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There are thousands of Mach-E owners that are very happy with the ride, then there are those that believe it is the worst riding car they have ever owned and then there are those in-between. One thing for sure, it has been a hot topic on this forum as evidence from one of the longest running threads we have ( #1 ).

There are so many variables with this issue and that's why I think we have a big discrepancy. Some owners with the magneride suspension love it and have no issues, others think it could definitely be improved, myself for starters. The non-magneride models are all different depending on standard battery, extended battery, RWD, AWD. Then we have the tires which really do make a difference on how the car rides as has been stated many times by owners, me included. Above all, there are the various types of roads everyone drives on. I have absolutely no roads anywhere within 2 hours of where I live that induce any bouncing and yet some owners have to drive over these types of roads every day. I can go on and on but these things have been beaten to death so I'm going to stop here.

I'm not any type of a suspension expert while many here are (Steve HuntingPudel for one) but wanted to set out to see what I could do to tame the bouncing of this car. I know if you put 6 or more cases of water in the cargo area, the bounce literally disappears. This tells me the car has very firm springs in the rear, as it should to handle the extra weight of a fully loaded car of passengers and cargo. However, when the car is not weighted down, over certain road conditions, it can bounce like the empty bed of a truck. I figured maybe what I could do is replace the springs with air bags and see how that goes. While I did have a great ride with a full air bag suspension, virtually no bounce, I had a lot of other issues that needed to be addressed in customizing brackets and spacers and after one month of doing this, I didn't feel like going at it any further ( #1 ). I could have gone the coil over route (KW make an excellent kit) but that is more on the expensive side for those who just want to try and soften their bucking pony driving to work.

Sticking with the OEM springs, the only other thing we can do to try and tame the ride is change out the shocks. Again, while I am not a suspension expert, I feel the shocks are not firm enough to settle the springs down fast enough. So, I set out to find shocks that would closely match our rear OEM's which I did and I'm testing them out with Anton (eidbanger) on his Premium with OEM wheels and tires. He does have aftermarket wheels and tires which actually make the ride a bit better but changed to the OEM's to keep it more fare since most people don't change their wheels and tires.

Last week, I posted on fitting and testing shocks in the bounce thread but thought maybe I should start a new thread on this subject. Here is the thread which explains how I picked and fitted shocks ( #1,322 ) < Please read that post as it explains a lot about this project. This post explains a little more about the particular shocks ( #1,325 )

Today, Anton had a bit of time so I went over to his place and installed the Koni's in his premium. Now, I am not use to Anton's car and he will be posting explaining in more detail how it rode and he will also have some data as he monitored each run with some type of motion app (not sure what it was). On the softest setting, they were worse than the OEM shocks. On the middle setting he said it was possiblely a bit better than OEM. Then went to the firmest setting and he had a huge smile on his face and said, my back end is barely bouncing. Again he will post here and explain in more detail with data but I know he would not let me take the shocks off the car. 😊 He wants to drive around with them for a week at which time I will go back down to his place and we will swap the Koni's for the Bilstein's.

On another note, we took my car out on the same stretch of bouncy road to see how the magneride did. With my car set to Unbridled, we both had a hard time finding a difference but decided if we had to pick, it would be the Koni's. Going over speed bumps at a slow speed, the Koni't definitely had the advantage as the rear went up, down and settled where as the magneride has a slight second bounce (which is why I think Ford needs to improve the tuning of the magneride VDM module).

Sorry for this long winded post. I wasn't sure even if changing out just the rear shocks would make a difference but it definitely does.

Both Anton and I will be adding to this thread as we do more testing. I think he may even post some charts off his motion app. He is backed up with work so don't expect him to post for at least a few days to a week.

View attachment 95187
From my past experience, it's hard to go wrong with Bilstein B6 shocks.
 
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markboris

markboris

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From my past experience, it's hard to go wrong with Bilstein B6 shocks.
They are my absolute favorite shock. However, we only had a limited time today (still took us a few of hours testing) and started with the Koni's. The Koni's are more firm than the Bilsten's when adjusted to their highest setting so it just might be the Koni's will work better in this instance but I am rooting for the Bilstein's.

I also think it is a good idea for Anton to test the Koni's out for the week and really get a feel for them before switching to the Bilstein's.
 
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Is there only 3 settings in the Koni’s?
My fear is firmest being great for smoother cali roads. The craziness in AZ might need some tweaks. Looks like I might be able to get some work done tomorrow. The single adjust QA 1’s have 18 settings. The duals have 18 for each rebound and compression. I was thinking of just fitting mine hopefully tomorrow and fighting the top cap and lower bushing at a later time. The lower bushing might not even be a problem, but I certainly don’t want the shock moving around on it as it’d hit the shock body.
 
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markboris

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Is there only 3 settings in the Koni’s?
My fear is firmest being great for smoother cali roads. The craziness in AZ might need some tweaks. Looks like I might be able to get some work done tomorrow.
No, they are infinitely adjustable through two full turns of the adjustment dial. We started at full soft, then went up 1/2 turn, then another 1/2 turn (now we are at half way) then one more full turn (max firm). The softer the shock, the worse the bounce. The more firm the shock, the bounce went away. The adjustment setting on these Koni's only adjust the rebound, not the compression.

AGAIN, this is on his particular cement freeway traveling 75 with cruise control on. Other types of roads may give different results.

What I could do is send a pair of these down to you and you test them out on your roads to see what you come up with?
 
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I’d like to find a way to record actual g’s somehow. It’d be interesting to see the difference between these for sure. I could see a shock swap for sure.
 
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markboris

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I’d like to find a way to record actual g’s somehow. It’d be interesting to see the difference between these for sure. I could see a shock swap for sure.
Anton has some app he uses when testing the shocks. His phone shows motion in a graph and he can explain it better which he will in a few days. He will have graphs for the OEM shocks plus the Koni's, Bilstein's and my magneride's.

After we test the Bilstein's next week, when we pick a winner, I will send that pair down to you to test.
 
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I’d like to find a way to record actual g’s somehow. It’d be interesting to see the difference between these for sure. I could see a shock swap for sure.
Using the "Physics Toolbox Accelerometer" android app, I took gyroscope readings this time instead of g-force meter. Although, I think it's all the same sensor. Will provide findings this week.
 

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Watching closely from Michigan roads.
 

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Nice! I’ll get some pre mod recordings on my test path.
Took a quick look at the data and on first glance I recommend recording g-force data, not gyroscope. That was easier to read.

I place the phone in the charging pad, but optimally it would be place in the back.
 

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Eagerly awaiting the results, the roads here are a washboard right now with all the frost heave. Constant bouncing the whole way, I can see the headlights moving up and down constantly on the reflective road signs. I feel bad for people in low cars because to them I'm just constantly flashing them.
 

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Took a quick look at the data and on first glance I recommend recording g-force data, not gyroscope. That was easier to read.

I place the phone in the charging pad, but optimally it would be place in the back.
G-force data would be accelerometer which is what you would want. And ideally you should have the phone be mounted to the vehicle so that it is reading the vehicles vibration and not the phones where it might be bouncing a bit more freely
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