Could you provide a little more detail?I've applied Adams Graphene to 3 vehicles so far, and the one I did 19 months ago is still very repellant. After washes I spray with the Adams Ceramic Boost & it definitely extends the hydrophobic qualities of the ceramic.
IMO, there is absolutely no reason to pay to have ceramic coating applied to a car PROVIDING you know how to properly prep the vehicle first. Below is everything I would do in terms of applying the ceramic coating. Just sticking with Adams products here, but Carpro & Chemical Guys are several other good ones. Estimated times it takes me to do this are listed.
Important to note, once you start the process you really shouldn't drive since you could add contaminants back to the paint. The idea is to remove all contaminants and imperfections BEFORE applying the protective layer, which in this case is ceramic coating. It's this process beforehand that gives the pop that you see from newly "ceramic'ed" cars far more than the ceramic coating itself.
Wet prep (1.5 hr)
* Wash with Adams Strip Wash
* Rinse
* Spray down with Adams Iron Remover
* Rinse
* Wash with Adam's Car Shampoo
* Rinse
* Clay bar with Adam's Detail spray (or just use car shampoo/water)
* Rinse
* Wash with Adam's Car Shampoo
* Rinse
* Dry (I use an air cannon to make sure water is removed from all crevices, but I am OCD)
Dry prep (1.5 hr)
note: If you're new at this, taping off the black plastic of your car with blue painters tape will avoid getting those white polish marks on the black plastic. The Griots G9 is a great & affordable polisher. I have the Rupes LHR15
* Polish with Adam's Polish and DA Orbital polisher
* Remove polish with microfiber cloth
* Use air cannon to remove any polish residue dust (not necessary, but again... the OCD)
Apply Ceramic Coating (2 hr)
note: you can remove blue tape if you applied it earlier. Also, if you can't do this in a garage, don't do it on a windy day or in the direct sun. A garage is almost mandatory though - with the door shut
* Wipe down car with Adams Surface Prep
* Apply ceramic coating in small area using overlapping strokes with foam pad (I do it in maybe 4' x 4' sections)
* When you see a rainbow type of swirl appear (looks like oil on top of water) wipe off with microfiber towel
* Repeat process to entire car. I'll even apply the coating to the black plastics and headlights.
What is your opinion on the strip wash? I see it has weak reviews and I'm thinking that Dawn disk soap / water mixture when doing the clay bar would be effective enough to remove any (griots ceramic 3 in 1 wax) or other residue. Also, I am wondering if I need to use Iron remover again after I used it 15 months / 12k miles ago. I guess that is partially dependent on the environment I drive in - PNW is fairly clean.I've applied Adams Graphene to 3 vehicles so far, and the one I did 19 months ago is still very repellant. After washes I spray with the Adams Ceramic Boost & it definitely extends the hydrophobic qualities of the ceramic.
IMO, there is absolutely no reason to pay to have ceramic coating applied to a car PROVIDING you know how to properly prep the vehicle first. Below is everything I would do in terms of applying the ceramic coating. Just sticking with Adams products here, but Carpro & Chemical Guys are several other good ones. Estimated times it takes me to do this are listed.
Important to note, once you start the process you really shouldn't drive since you could add contaminants back to the paint. The idea is to remove all contaminants and imperfections BEFORE applying the protective layer, which in this case is ceramic coating. It's this process beforehand that gives the pop that you see from newly "ceramic'ed" cars far more than the ceramic coating itself.
Wet prep (1.5 hr)
* Wash with Adams Strip Wash
* Rinse
* Spray down with Adams Iron Remover
* Rinse
* Wash with Adam's Car Shampoo
* Rinse
* Clay bar with Adam's Detail spray (or just use car shampoo/water)
* Rinse
* Wash with Adam's Car Shampoo
* Rinse
* Dry (I use an air cannon to make sure water is removed from all crevices, but I am OCD)
Dry prep (1.5 hr)
note: If you're new at this, taping off the black plastic of your car with blue painters tape will avoid getting those white polish marks on the black plastic. The Griots G9 is a great & affordable polisher. I have the Rupes LHR15
* Polish with Adam's Polish and DA Orbital polisher
* Remove polish with microfiber cloth
* Use air cannon to remove any polish residue dust (not necessary, but again... the OCD)
Apply Ceramic Coating (2 hr)
note: you can remove blue tape if you applied it earlier. Also, if you can't do this in a garage, don't do it on a windy day or in the direct sun. A garage is almost mandatory though - with the door shut
* Wipe down car with Adams Surface Prep
* Apply ceramic coating in small area using overlapping strokes with foam pad (I do it in maybe 4' x 4' sections)
* When you see a rainbow type of swirl appear (looks like oil on top of water) wipe off with microfiber towel
* Repeat process to entire car. I'll even apply the coating to the black plastics and headlights.
I used to always use the Dawn/water as a strip wash. Did it for years, until a buddy of mine who actually owns a detailing place told me not to use Dawn as it breaks down the actual clear coat. Not like wash the car with dawn and you have immediate damage - but in general. I really think any of the strip washes from places like Griots or Adams are the same thing, so I'll use any of them.What is your opinion on the strip wash? I see it has weak reviews and I'm thinking that Dawn disk soap / water mixture when doing the clay bar would be effective enough to remove any (griots ceramic 3 in 1 wax) or other residue. Also, I am wondering if I need to use Iron remover again after I used it 15 months / 12k miles ago. I guess that is partially dependent on the environment I drive in - PNW is fairly clean.
I'd go with something higher in pH for a strip wash. Koch Chemie Active Foam and Super Foam are great, but you cannot buy smaller volumes yet. In the mean time, mixing 50/50 Koch Chemie Gentle Snow Foam and Koch Chemie Green Star make a substantial foaming and cleaning product.What is your opinion on the strip wash? I see it has weak reviews and I'm thinking that Dawn disk soap / water mixture when doing the clay bar would be effective enough to remove any (griots ceramic 3 in 1 wax) or other residue. Also, I am wondering if I need to use Iron remover again after I used it 15 months / 12k miles ago. I guess that is partially dependent on the environment I drive in - PNW is fairly clean.
It really isn't, and I figured it would be too! Especially on a white car (like I see in your pic) where you can't see the rainbow swirl marks as well.I'm a fan of the Adam's Graphene (small bottle) as well. Prep is everything, and the UV marker in it is not a gimmick.
X2 in terms of the Hybrid Solutions ceramic spray! I park my car outside and do two coats at a time and just reapplied after 9 months.Turtle Wax's Hybrid Solutions - the ceramic spray and wet wax are great products. For in between washings, Adams ceramic waterless wash