What ceramic coating do you use?

doogie63

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What brand of ceramic do you use? And is it the easy to apply spray or little bottle? Is there a brand you don't like? How long did your ceramic last? Let the discussion begin and post those pictures of your car.
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Kamuelaflyer

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I had the mach-e and truck done by a professional. They used CeramicPro, 3 coats. Quite pleased. For a topper coat I use Avalon King's ceramic spray. I'm very pleased with that. I also did a ceramic coating on our jeep Wrangler using Avalon King's Armor IX. Armor IX comes in a small bottle and IIRC I used 1 1/2 bottles. I used Armor IX on our UTV several years ago and it's still looking great,

The key in any of these is the prep work. Wash thoroughly (two bucket system), fallout remover, clay bar, polish ...
 
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azerik

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I used Cancoat. It's simple and lasts maybe a year. I did it mostly for hydrophobic properties. It hardly rains here, but when it does dust sticks. I'm hoping to avoid some of that.
 

highland58

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I will be using Adam's UV Graphene Ceramic Coating this time around. I used AvalonKing ARMOR SHIELD IX previously, but the Adam's seems like it will be an improvement. The Adam's also comes as a spray bottle, but the coating will not last as long that way.
For touchup I have been using Griots 3 in 1 Ceramic Wax. Today I will be cleaning and using Griot's 10691 Synthetic Clay, then some light polishing in some spots - mostly the rear hatch door. We have a Bolt EUV on order to replace my wife's LEAF, I will be using the Adam's on it as well.
I plan to polish the F-150 (lots of work) and put ceramic on it as well later in the year. I bought it used and it has lots of microscratches.
 

abr

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I used Ethos Graphene (little bottle - prepared and applied myself) over 2 years ago and still going strong. I use their Resist spray about every 6 months (takes about 15 minutes to apply). Looks shiny like new and still beads like crazy.
 


eleven24

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I've applied Adams Graphene to 3 vehicles so far, and the one I did 19 months ago is still very repellant. After washes I spray with the Adams Ceramic Boost & it definitely extends the hydrophobic qualities of the ceramic.

IMO, there is absolutely no reason to pay to have ceramic coating applied to a car PROVIDING you know how to properly prep the vehicle first. Below is everything I would do in terms of applying the ceramic coating. Just sticking with Adams products here, but Carpro & Chemical Guys are several other good ones. Estimated times it takes me to do this are listed.

Important to note, once you start the process you really shouldn't drive since you could add contaminants back to the paint. The idea is to remove all contaminants and imperfections BEFORE applying the protective layer, which in this case is ceramic coating. It's this process beforehand that gives the pop that you see from newly "ceramic'ed" cars far more than the ceramic coating itself.

Wet prep (1.5 hr)
* Wash with Adams Strip Wash
* Rinse
* Spray down with Adams Iron Remover
* Rinse
* Wash with Adam's Car Shampoo
* Rinse
* Clay bar with Adam's Detail spray (or just use car shampoo/water)
* Rinse
* Wash with Adam's Car Shampoo
* Rinse
* Dry (I use an air cannon to make sure water is removed from all crevices, but I am OCD)

Dry prep (1.5 hr)
note: If you're new at this, taping off the black plastic of your car with blue painters tape will avoid getting those white polish marks on the black plastic. The Griots G9 is a great & affordable polisher. I have the Rupes LHR15

* Polish with Adam's Polish and DA Orbital polisher
* Remove polish with microfiber cloth
* Use air cannon to remove any polish residue dust (not necessary, but again... the OCD)

Apply Ceramic Coating (2 hr)
note: you can remove blue tape if you applied it earlier. Also, if you can't do this in a garage, don't do it on a windy day or in the direct sun. A garage is almost mandatory though - with the door shut

* Wipe down car with Adams Surface Prep
* Apply ceramic coating in small area using overlapping strokes with foam pad (I do it in maybe 4' x 4' sections)
* When you see a rainbow type of swirl appear (looks like oil on top of water) wipe off with microfiber towel
* Repeat process to entire car. I'll even apply the coating to the black plastics and headlights.
 

ArthurDOB

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I've applied Adams Graphene to 3 vehicles so far, and the one I did 19 months ago is still very repellant. After washes I spray with the Adams Ceramic Boost & it definitely extends the hydrophobic qualities of the ceramic.

IMO, there is absolutely no reason to pay to have ceramic coating applied to a car PROVIDING you know how to properly prep the vehicle first. Below is everything I would do in terms of applying the ceramic coating. Just sticking with Adams products here, but Carpro & Chemical Guys are several other good ones. Estimated times it takes me to do this are listed.

Important to note, once you start the process you really shouldn't drive since you could add contaminants back to the paint. The idea is to remove all contaminants and imperfections BEFORE applying the protective layer, which in this case is ceramic coating. It's this process beforehand that gives the pop that you see from newly "ceramic'ed" cars far more than the ceramic coating itself.

Wet prep (1.5 hr)
* Wash with Adams Strip Wash
* Rinse
* Spray down with Adams Iron Remover
* Rinse
* Wash with Adam's Car Shampoo
* Rinse
* Clay bar with Adam's Detail spray (or just use car shampoo/water)
* Rinse
* Wash with Adam's Car Shampoo
* Rinse
* Dry (I use an air cannon to make sure water is removed from all crevices, but I am OCD)

Dry prep (1.5 hr)
note: If you're new at this, taping off the black plastic of your car with blue painters tape will avoid getting those white polish marks on the black plastic. The Griots G9 is a great & affordable polisher. I have the Rupes LHR15

* Polish with Adam's Polish and DA Orbital polisher
* Remove polish with microfiber cloth
* Use air cannon to remove any polish residue dust (not necessary, but again... the OCD)

Apply Ceramic Coating (2 hr)
note: you can remove blue tape if you applied it earlier. Also, if you can't do this in a garage, don't do it on a windy day or in the direct sun. A garage is almost mandatory though - with the door shut

* Wipe down car with Adams Surface Prep
* Apply ceramic coating in small area using overlapping strokes with foam pad (I do it in maybe 4' x 4' sections)
* When you see a rainbow type of swirl appear (looks like oil on top of water) wipe off with microfiber towel
* Repeat process to entire car. I'll even apply the coating to the black plastics and headlights.
Could you provide a little more detail? 🤣
 

SWO

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I'm a fan of the Adam's Graphene (small bottle) as well. Prep is everything, and the UV marker in it is not a gimmick.
 

highland58

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I've applied Adams Graphene to 3 vehicles so far, and the one I did 19 months ago is still very repellant. After washes I spray with the Adams Ceramic Boost & it definitely extends the hydrophobic qualities of the ceramic.

IMO, there is absolutely no reason to pay to have ceramic coating applied to a car PROVIDING you know how to properly prep the vehicle first. Below is everything I would do in terms of applying the ceramic coating. Just sticking with Adams products here, but Carpro & Chemical Guys are several other good ones. Estimated times it takes me to do this are listed.

Important to note, once you start the process you really shouldn't drive since you could add contaminants back to the paint. The idea is to remove all contaminants and imperfections BEFORE applying the protective layer, which in this case is ceramic coating. It's this process beforehand that gives the pop that you see from newly "ceramic'ed" cars far more than the ceramic coating itself.

Wet prep (1.5 hr)
* Wash with Adams Strip Wash
* Rinse
* Spray down with Adams Iron Remover
* Rinse
* Wash with Adam's Car Shampoo
* Rinse
* Clay bar with Adam's Detail spray (or just use car shampoo/water)
* Rinse
* Wash with Adam's Car Shampoo
* Rinse
* Dry (I use an air cannon to make sure water is removed from all crevices, but I am OCD)

Dry prep (1.5 hr)
note: If you're new at this, taping off the black plastic of your car with blue painters tape will avoid getting those white polish marks on the black plastic. The Griots G9 is a great & affordable polisher. I have the Rupes LHR15

* Polish with Adam's Polish and DA Orbital polisher
* Remove polish with microfiber cloth
* Use air cannon to remove any polish residue dust (not necessary, but again... the OCD)

Apply Ceramic Coating (2 hr)
note: you can remove blue tape if you applied it earlier. Also, if you can't do this in a garage, don't do it on a windy day or in the direct sun. A garage is almost mandatory though - with the door shut

* Wipe down car with Adams Surface Prep
* Apply ceramic coating in small area using overlapping strokes with foam pad (I do it in maybe 4' x 4' sections)
* When you see a rainbow type of swirl appear (looks like oil on top of water) wipe off with microfiber towel
* Repeat process to entire car. I'll even apply the coating to the black plastics and headlights.
What is your opinion on the strip wash? I see it has weak reviews and I'm thinking that Dawn disk soap / water mixture when doing the clay bar would be effective enough to remove any (griots ceramic 3 in 1 wax) or other residue. Also, I am wondering if I need to use Iron remover again after I used it 15 months / 12k miles ago. I guess that is partially dependent on the environment I drive in - PNW is fairly clean.
 

eleven24

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What is your opinion on the strip wash? I see it has weak reviews and I'm thinking that Dawn disk soap / water mixture when doing the clay bar would be effective enough to remove any (griots ceramic 3 in 1 wax) or other residue. Also, I am wondering if I need to use Iron remover again after I used it 15 months / 12k miles ago. I guess that is partially dependent on the environment I drive in - PNW is fairly clean.
I used to always use the Dawn/water as a strip wash. Did it for years, until a buddy of mine who actually owns a detailing place told me not to use Dawn as it breaks down the actual clear coat. Not like wash the car with dawn and you have immediate damage - but in general. I really think any of the strip washes from places like Griots or Adams are the same thing, so I'll use any of them.

I thought the same regarding the iron remover as you did. Meh... I just did it not long ago, there's no need. Until I sprayed it on the hood and saw all of the little purple dots show up (at the time on my wife's white BMW X5).

Think of it this way: Anything you don't remove from the paint gets locked in by the ceramic coating
 

Lord Polymath

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Turtle Wax's Hybrid Solutions - the ceramic spray and wet wax are great products. For in between washings, Adams ceramic waterless wash
 

connoisseurr

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What is your opinion on the strip wash? I see it has weak reviews and I'm thinking that Dawn disk soap / water mixture when doing the clay bar would be effective enough to remove any (griots ceramic 3 in 1 wax) or other residue. Also, I am wondering if I need to use Iron remover again after I used it 15 months / 12k miles ago. I guess that is partially dependent on the environment I drive in - PNW is fairly clean.
I'd go with something higher in pH for a strip wash. Koch Chemie Active Foam and Super Foam are great, but you cannot buy smaller volumes yet. In the mean time, mixing 50/50 Koch Chemie Gentle Snow Foam and Koch Chemie Green Star make a substantial foaming and cleaning product.

I'll use that combo, or Gyeon Foam.

My current full prep for ceramic coating:
  • Prewash/Strip Wash with Koch Chemie Blend or Gyeon Active Foam (dwell for 5 minutes, non-contact)
  • Rinse
  • Decon with P&S Iron Buster (dwell for 5 minutes, non-contact)
  • Rinse
  • Contact wash with Koch Chemie Gentle Snow Foam
  • Rinse with DI water
  • Clay Bar with P&S Absolute as a lubricant
  • Rinse with DI water
  • Blower/Towel Dry
  • TWO Isopropyl Alcohol Wipe Downs
  • Apply Ceramic Coating - I've been using Gyeon Mohs Evo for the past few years, but really want to try Opti-Coat Pro. Can't get my hands on it sadly :(

For those who want decent protection for 2-3 months and don't want to go through the hassle of a ceramic coating, I very much enjoy using Gtechniq W3 G Wash, and topping it with Gyeon Wet Coat.

First application looks like:
  • Prewash/Strip Wash with Koch Chemie Blend or Gyeon Active Foam (dwell for 5 minutes, non-contact)
  • Rinse
  • Decon with P&S Iron Buster (dwell for 5 minutes, non-contact)
  • Rinse
  • Contact wash with Gtechniq G Wash W3
  • Rinse with DI water
  • Clay Bar with P&S Absolute as a lubricant
  • Rinse with DI water
  • Apply Gyeon Wet Coat diluted 1:1 with distilled water in an IK Multi Pro 2 Sprayer, and spread with microfiber mit
  • Towel Dry to dry and level coating
The combination of Gtechniq W3 and Gyeon Wet Coat makes for a great protection lasting up to 3 months. From there, I'll do monthly maintenance washes using Gyeon Foam non-contact prewash, contact wash with Gtechniq W3, and top it with Gyeon Wet Coat. Towel dry.
 

eleven24

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I'm a fan of the Adam's Graphene (small bottle) as well. Prep is everything, and the UV marker in it is not a gimmick.
It really isn't, and I figured it would be too! Especially on a white car (like I see in your pic) where you can't see the rainbow swirl marks as well.
 
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agdad

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AvalonKing is the best in my opinion !

Oldgasstaionmache.jpg
 

Izzle

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Turtle Wax's Hybrid Solutions - the ceramic spray and wet wax are great products. For in between washings, Adams ceramic waterless wash
X2 in terms of the Hybrid Solutions ceramic spray! I park my car outside and do two coats at a time and just reapplied after 9 months.

Excellent comparison test:

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