What charger do you recommend? Why?

[J5hort]

I just got back from a fun little wet-weather drive on some back roads in the hills around my place and thought of another reason to get a higher speed charger like the ChargePoint: it’s possible to drain the battery pretty quick on twisty ascents and if you’re in a hurry to get back home, you may not be coasting the descents to regen your battery. This is especially a concern when your friends are coming over to try the car out. Think how disappointed they’d be if you had to tell them to come back tomorrow when the Mach-E is finally charged. ?

How much of the 260 mile range did you chew up?

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[J5hort]

Does it tell you the rate at which it's charging? Not sure if they've added that, but that was originally one of the basic features that was missing from the Ford Connected Charging Station.

It does provide an estimate on when charging will be done. That seems pretty useful. Not loaded with geek stats however, which I am actually partial to. I am charging from about 40% to 80% daily and start at midnight. It is usually back to 80% 2-3 hours later. My off-peak time is 9pm to 8am, I originally started at 9pm, but pushed ahead to midnight. Still need to test to %100 when i plan a longer trip.

 

[AlbanyIan]

How much of the 260 mile range did you chew up?

I went from about 75 GOM miles to 49 miles GOM miles in 5 actual road miles! Fun but not really sustainable if you're in the middle of nowhere.

 

[J5hort]

I went from about 75 GOM miles to 49 miles GOM miles in 5 actual road miles! Fun but not really sustainable if you're in the middle of nowhere.

Probably more fun if you started with a full charge. I have noticed a big difference in consumption due to different driving styles. I read that driver profiles will be learned and adjust range estimates over time. Still, not really a function of what it was charged with.

 

[ARK]

Do you have to configure the ChargePoint to only provide 40 amps? I am planning on having an electrician to install a 50 amp dedicated circuit for my 2022 MME ER which i should hopefully get in late April.

Yes, it's done through the ChargePoint app, it is very simple and can be adjusted any time so long as you are not in the middle of a charge. You choose whether your Home Flex has been installed via plug-in or hardwire, and then it gives you the relevant options to choose what the amps are on your breaker, i.e. a 50 amp breaker.

My breaker is 60 amps (so can handle 48 amp charging as hardwired), but I typically leave it at 40 amps on plug-in, so that the vehicle charges at 32 amps.

 

[mikeinet]

Why do you chose to downgrade the ampage you use with the chargepoint?

 

[AlbanyIan]

Probably more fun if you started with a full charge. I have noticed a big difference in consumption due to different driving styles. I read that driver profiles will be learned and adjust range estimates over time. Still, not really a function of what it was charged with.

Totally agree. Fast chargers just get you back on the road more quickly. For some on this forum, that may be important.

 

[J5hort]

How much faster is a typical EVSE vs the supplied charging cable? The first week of ownership I used the 120v adapter. Oddly enough, with my use case, we could probably make it work, but I installed for 240v already. Big difference as one would imagine (4 miles of range per hour vs. about 24). Just wondering if the differnce is that great between supplied charging cable vs. EVSE - Mach-E onboard charger is doing most of the work.

 

[KZ6e1e]

How much faster is a typical EVSE vs the supplied charging cable? The first week of ownership I used the 120v adapter. Oddly enough, with my use case, we could probably make it work, but I installed for 240v already. Big difference as one would imagine (4 miles of range per hour vs. about 24). Just wondering if the differnce is that great between supplied charging cable vs. EVSE - Mach-E onboard charger is doing most of the work.

Simple Mathing it, it is minimal.

Mobile Charge = 240/32a or 7.68kWh
EVSE = 240/40a or 9.60 kWh
Ford Connected = 240/48a or 11.52 kWh

Just for comp sake
L1 = 120v/12A = 1.32 kWh

 

[J5hort]

Simple Mathing it, it is minimal.

Mobile Charge = 240/32a or 7.68kWh
EVSE = 240/40a or 9.60 kWh
Ford Connected = 240/48a or 11.52 kWh

Just for comp sake
L1 = 120v/12A = 1.32 kWh

Thanks for doing the calculations. Ford dealer recommends Ford Connected as one would imagine. I did review a info video for the F150 where the car as a backup for power outage will require the Ford wall charger. That may be considered an advantage in buying the extra equipment.

 

[RickMachE]

Thanks for doing the calculations. Ford dealer recommends Ford Connected as one would imagine. I did review a info video for the F150 where the car as a backup for power outage will require the Ford wall charger. That may be considered an advantage in buying the extra equipment.

There also are no 80amp chargers you can buy...

 

[RickMachE]

How much faster is a typical EVSE vs the supplied charging cable? The first week of ownership I used the 120v adapter. Oddly enough, with my use case, we could probably make it work, but I installed for 240v already. Big difference as one would imagine (4 miles of range per hour vs. about 24). Just wondering if the differnce is that great between supplied charging cable vs. EVSE - Mach-E onboard charger is doing most of the work.

You didn't get 4 miles an hour with 120v. Barely 3, more like 2.8.
With the 32 you get around 20 miles an hour. With a 48amp charger, you get closer to 30 miles an hour.

If I come back from a trip at 5% charge, i.e. 13 miles left, and it's 11pm, my charger could charge to full by morning.

I also have a close to 25 foot cord, so I can reach all 3 bays in my 3 car garage.

Here is the main reason I bought it. After a $500 utility company rebate, and a 30% tax credit, it is free - actually a profit generator.

$639 + 6% tax = $677.34 - $500 - ($677.34. * .30) = ($25.86) profit

Given the numbers, I would be stupid NOT to buy one, no?

Besides, until I get my fix applied tomorrow, at 48amps mine sounded like an airplane taking off in my garage.

 

[KZ6e1e]

Thanks for doing the calculations. Ford dealer recommends Ford Connected as one would imagine. I did review a info video for the F150 where the car as a backup for power outage will require the Ford wall charger. That may be considered an advantage in buying the extra equipment.

There also are no 80amp chargers you can buy...

The F-150 house generator thing requires Ford Charge Station Pro ... which isn't out yet afaik

https://www.motortrend.com/news/fords-charge-station-pro-first-vehicle-to-grid-charger/
https://www.designnews.com/automoti...n-pro-cuts-lightning-recharge-time-40-percent

Also F150 != MME.
Don't drink the coolaid too much =)

 

[NewGuy]

You didn't get 4 miles an hour with 120v. Barely 3, more like 2.8.
With the 32 you get around 20 miles an hour. With a 48amp charger, you get closer to 30 miles an hour.

If I come back from a trip at 5% charge, i.e. 13 miles left, and it's 11pm, my charger could charge to full by morning.

I also have a close to 25 foot cord, so I can reach all 3 bays in my 3 car garage.

Here is the main reason I bought it. After a $500 utility company rebate, and a 30% tax credit, it is free - actually a profit generator.

$639 + 6% tax = $677.34 - $500 - ($677.34. * .30) = ($25.86) profit

Given the numbers, I would be stupid NOT to buy one, no?

Besides, until I get my fix applied tomorrow, at 48amps mine sounded like an airplane taking off in my garage.

I can't imagine you can (legally) take the tax credit on something you didn't pay for. So you'd get the 30% credit on $677.34-$500. Still cheap though.

 

[RickMachE]

I can't imagine you can (legally) take the tax credit on something you didn't pay for. So you'd get the 30% credit on $677.34-$500. Still cheap though.

That depends on your thought process.

The DTE rebate is on the entire install plus charger, and requires me to have it installed by a qualified network installer. In my case that's roughly $2,000.

The tax credit is on the entire install and charger. So that's a $600 tax credit on $2,000.

$2,000 - $500 - $600 = $900 out of pocket cost.

If I didn't buy the charger, then I would have paid ~ $1,300 for the wiring, given up the DTE credit (because you must also buy a charger so they can monitor usage), and then gotten 30% on $1,300 or $390, for an out of pocket cost of $910.

If you argue I didn't pay $500 for the combined cost, then it's $1,500 x 30% for a $450 tax credit in total, and $2,000 - $500 - 450 = $1,050 out of pocket cost. The question to your tax accountant, or tax software, is whether a $500 rebate from the utility company should decrease the amount of your tax credit. I will follow whatever my tax software says.

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