Wild price quote ranges for a Nema 14-50 outlet install

[Illinibird]

If GFCI is code where you live for a 14-50 and the electrician insists on it I would recommend having the charger hardwired at which point you don’t need a GFCI breaker. All the wall mounted EV chargers have a GFCI built in and this is a recipe for nusciance tripping of the breaker.

Use Ford’s Mobile Charger with built in GFI circuit and have 50 amp GFCI breaker with absolutely ZERO nuisance tripping since the day it was plugged in. Don’t be afraid of that when you put in your GFCI breaker due to local codes.

Sponsored

 

[malba2366]

Use Ford’s Mobile Charger with built in GFI circuit and have 50 amp GFCI breaker with absolutely ZERO nuisance tripping since the day it was plugged in. Don’t be afraid of that when you put in your GFCI breaker due to local codes.

Yes it will work most of the time but to have 2 GFCIs controlling the same circuit is not a good setup - this is why Tesla removed the 14-50 option, and ChargePoint says it’s not recommended and that if code requires a 14-50 to be on GFCI then you should hardwire the charger. It may work most of the time or all of the time in some setups, but it is more prone to nuisance tripping.

 

[Illinibird]

Yes it will work most of the time but to have 2 GFCIs controlling the same circuit is not a good setup - this is why Tesla removed the 14-50 option, and ChargePoint says it’s not recommended and that if code requires a 14-50 to be on GFCI then you should hardwire the charger. It may work most of the time or all of the time in some setups, but it is more prone to nuisance tripping.

Just telling you my story on it. Followed Ford's directions (use a GFCI breaker) and local codes. I'm not an electrician but it seems to work fine. I've never had a "fault" or tripped breaker.

 

[RetiredDP]

I’m getting quotes from 300-1200 for a Nema outlet install and I’m not sure who to believe, one of them said permits are required... the place where I want the outlet is 3 ft next to my panel! Any advice?

My county REQUIRES that the installation be permitted-and-inspected, to get their $1500 rebate. Also for insurance coverage in case of a fire...

 

[Illinibird]

Just telling you my story on it. Followed Ford's directions (use a GFCI breaker) and local codes. I'm not an electrician but it seems to work fine. I've never had a "fault" or tripped breaker.

Somebody told me the reason for 2 GFCI circuits is one for the SEMA 14-50 outlet in case of a ground fault on that not involved with the charger and an internal one in the charger to prevent a ground fault when plugging that in or using it. That is why Ford recommended a breaker that is GFCI and why I followed their instructions. AND, I have not had one nuisance trip since I plugged the Ford Mobile Charger in April 16th when I brought the car home.

 

[RetiredDP]

Wow, these prices! DIY it if you can. It's really not so difficult, if your outlet will be in the same room as the panel. I paid $50 to DIY, though I admit my situation was very lucky. I needed about 6 feet of wire.
https://www.macheforum.com/site/thr...stalling-a-wall-charger-outlet.613/post-62411

I used the recommended "industrial strength" Hubbell 14-50 outlet, because that was the specific outlet that Tesla recommends. MUCH HEAVIER construction than Home Depot outlets. The outlet cost me $88 on Amazon. I worry that your outlet won't hold up to the strain of hours-long continuous usage from an EV. If your cost was $50 total including wiring, it must be a cheapo outlet.

 

[DevSecOps]

Also for insurance coverage in case of a fire...

Yeah ... Might want to read your permit. In most counties in California they have revised the language in the permits that specifically exclude them from liability and that the permits aren't to be considered evidence of correctly performed work. If you do the work yourself they now have an addendum that states the homeowner is responsible currently and for future owners. They've basically revised the permits to say in layman's terms "We just want your money, not your liability".

With that language I'm doubtful insurance companies that really want out would accept a permit as proof that it was done correctly.

I should clarify that I'm not promoting the idea that you shouldn't get a permit. If it's required then it's required.

 

[RetiredDP]

Yeah ... Might want to read your permit. In most counties in California they have revised the language in the permits that specifically exclude them from liability and that the permits aren't to be considered evidence of correctly performed work. If you do the work yourself they now have an addendum that states the homeowner is responsible currently and for future owners. They've basically revised the permits to say in layman's terms "We just want your money, not your liability".

With that language I'm doubtful insurance companies that really want out would accept a permit as proof that it was done correctly.

I should clarify that I'm not promoting the idea that you shouldn't get a permit. If it's required then it's required.

You need the permit to get the $1,500 rebate in my county.

 

[Maquis]

Somebody told me the reason for 2 GFCI circuits is one for the SEMA 14-50 outlet in case of a ground fault on that not involved with the charger and an internal one in the charger to prevent a ground fault when plugging that in or using it. That is why Ford recommended a breaker that is GFCI and why I followed their instructions. AND, I have not had one nuisance trip since I plugged the Ford Mobile Charger in April 16th when I brought the car home.

Correct on all points.
Cascaded GFCIs do not cause nuisance trips. If they did, no hair dry would would work on bathroom receptacles which are required to be GFCI protected.

 

[sockmeister]

I used the recommended "industrial strength" Hubbell 14-50 outlet, because that was the specific outlet that Tesla recommends. MUCH HEAVIER construction than Home Depot outlets. The outlet cost me $88 on Amazon. I worry that your outlet won't hold up to the strain of hours-long continuous usage from an EV. If your cost was $50 total including wiring, it must be a cheapo outlet.

It's because I only had to run it about 6 feet. Nope, the outlet is UL listed and designed for the purpose that it was being used for. I've since moved, and had to do a new run in the new house, and this time it's more like 100 feet ... now that was more expensive, but I still did it myself.

 

[KevinS]

With the Federal and State rebates available, I decided to get the receipts from the electrician and do it legit (in our area electrical work requires inspection.) I'm not going to sweat $500 in exchange for creating an unbalanced load situation on my electrical panel or risk a fire hazard. Remember, this is all in support of a car that costs over 50k.

Sponsored