My PaaK was working fine since this original thread 18months ago but like some of you I got the set up PaaK message in the app after the latest update and decided to try setting it up again. Bad idea. I had to do the reset of everything I outlined last year and it worked again, but again that...
This is just a wild guess….wild guess…. but I don’t think it will hurt to try. There are a set of breakers on the fuse box that you can easily flip and re-engage. They are just under the driver side hood cover. I had a similar issue with the car amplifier throwing a default code. It’s a 10...
I have the juicebox 40. My local utility provided a rebate on it as it is considered a “connected” charger. Set up was easy and I haven’t had any issues so far.
Phone only and I have never had an issue but my wife who has a new iphone said she had issues and deleted it from Bluetooth and only uses the fob. I did have a hell of a time setting both phones up and I’m not going through the hassle to set her up again.
I wanted to add that the particular E/A station I went to only had 150 kwh EVSE dc chargers. I think I should have been pulling more than 47kwh when I started up but I chalked that up to it already being at 45% capacity and I didn’t hang around to watch the whole charging session.
I also finally tried out Electrify America’s network and plug and charge. It worked flawlessly. I had set up plug and charge of my FordPass app last week. I decided to take the car to the closest E/A location about 4 miles from my house. I was at 45% charge when I pulled in. All the stations...
Yeah-I had the same opinion when I placed my order. I ordered an ER RWD for that same reason, and then I regretted not getting AWD when I saw the performance boost. I ended up getting a FE reservation under the Mach Drop program, but regretted it when they cut the price of the premium. I love...
That sucks. That is definitely one of the issues with the dealer model. That shouldn’t be happening, but again with the information that you had you knew to argue.