Search results

The ingenuity and obsessiveness of audio modders is truly impressive. Each one of theses types of threads is a sight to behold! I would personally never attempt anything like this, but I love to see the detail and the pictures. Well done!

The day that I wrote my post, Saturday, wife had to take our kid to soccer and said that everything worked again. A 24hr long glitch in the matrix apparently... AA has been working fine for her ever since. Curious if your AA issue lasts for 24 hrs.

My wife started having connection issues yesterday, but with Android Auto. According to her, wireless and USB AA stopped connecting. I haven't looked into it at all and she had to take the car today, so no info other than her Pixel 10 "Wouldn't connect or charge". 🤷‍♂️

Ford app > Center lightning bolt on bottom of the screen > Charge payment and access > Plug and charge toggle

You know who "they" are, it's the other side. They are responsible for all the bad stuff and them are responsible for the good stuff. They run everything and them fight against it. It's really quite simple.

Since the rotors were machined, then I'll go with my theory that is what made them more prone to warp again. Insist on new rotors for this next visit to the dealer and also insist on a full brake system check. Check the calipers (make sure none are stuck/sticky) and possibly a flush to get any...

@dolvio , I just went back through this thread to see if you ever mentioned what was done by the dealer the first time your brake rotors warped. I couldn't find anything that mentioned that. If I missed it, my apologies in advance. My thought is if on the first dealer visit for your warped...

Do you mean moving from 400v to 800v? I can't imagine that VW is less than 400v currently, but I really don't know.

There was a TSB a while ago with a remedy of Ford updating a bunch of the modules that deal with Android auto and wireless carplay. Your car sounds like it's too new for that, but a 26 should still be under warranty. I would get it to the dealer and describe the problem, they'll probably update...

Usually get an avalanche of warnings when the 12 volt battery or charging system goes bad. Start looking there for any clues.

It's Sunday. Ford app, FDRS, anything Ford computer related goes through maintenance on Sunday's and never works. Everything will probably be normal Monday morning.

Mach-e forum member extraordinaire @RickMachE has a recent thread about his dashcam install experience where he taps into switched power:

Most of us don't have 2026 Mach-e's, so we haven't experienced the decontenting that you are experiencing and we didn't have to pay more for it. But thanks to your post, it is something that I or others will now pay attention to if we ever look at 2026+ MME's.

Your screenshot shows £2313 for the Mach-e compared to £288 for the Mercedes. Maybe not "dodgy", but I'd go with the Mercedes at those prices.

"You're doing 60 in a 40mph zone", me saying to my wife. "Oops" as she slows the new to her '23 MME Premium. She had driven our previous MME and our current Lightning and Bolt occasionally, but the MME is her daily driver now after trading our last ICE, a Toyota Highlander. A couple of days...

My recent purchase of a '23 MME from Carvana seems to contradict this article. We started looking before the gas price spike. MMEs on Carvana were plentiful and in the low/mid $20k - low $30k depending on trim/battery/mileage, etc... After gas spiked, a lot of the MMEs would go "on hold" or...

Vibration while braking is usually caused by overheating a rotor which causes warping. My guess is you possibly had a seized caliper that caused the rotor to overheat and warp. I don't think you need to do the neutral/braking every day, but it probably won't hurt. Definitely shows that...

More brake wear than ICE? Nope. Brake rust and sticking calipers due to lack of use from regen? Absolutely. I agree your dealer sounds like a turd and may be trying to take you for a ride. That's a real expensive quote without even knowing what the problem is. There are lots of older threads...

As of 2 weeks ago, we went 100% EV. A '24 Lightning for me, '23 MME for the wife, and a '20 Chevy Bolt for the kid(s). The MME replaced our last ICE which was a 2021 Toyota Highlander. We live somewhat in the sticks, and do quite a bit of driving as part of our daily lives. My house was built...

Yep, that is what is being put into your battery after the AC to DC losses. That is not the measurement of the amperage that is going to your EVSE.