schvanger
New Member
- First Name
- Ben
- Joined
- Aug 22, 2026
- Threads
- 1
- Messages
- 3
- Reaction score
- 1
- Location
- Wisconsin Rapids, WI
- Vehicles
- 2023 Ford Mustang Mach-E, Premium Trim, AWD, NCM Extended Range Battery
- Occupation
- Mechanical Engineer
- Thread starter
- #1
The special glass in the Mach-E will block the Starlink Mini if mounted inside, so I mounted it on the glass roof.
One note: if you follow my setup exactly, you will also be enabling a special feature: a roof-mounted high frequency whistle that engages at around 50mph. This 4kHz acoustic beacon is intentional, based on CFD modeling of the vehicle-starlink interface, to scare away wildlife from highways where they would otherwise not hear the EV coming.
Disclaimer: DIY at your own risk; you may not be as flawless as I am.
Satellite Antenna
I purchased my Starlink Mini from the Starlink website, with the Roaming plan @ $55/month.
The satellite antenna uses the Ku-band (12 GHz to 18 GHz). It is blocked by Mach-E's special glass.
Thankfully, the Starlink Mini's Wifi router signal, operating at a "normal" 5 GHz has no problem communicating with devices inside the vehicle.
To install, I purchased these products from Amazon:
B0GZYFWWYL - Starlink Mini Car Adapter with 10FT DC Power Cable
B0F675P2G2 - Mini Cord Hider
B0DRVS828C - Starlink Mini Mount, Magnetic
B086RRTBLW - 3M Adhesive Cord Organizer
B0H1779FHH - Starlink Mini Gen3 Magnetic Mount Plates
Photos:
Finished install
Close up of the adhesive mounts. They provide some tolerance to error if you place the antenna down slightly off.
I'd recommend first cleaning the roof really well, then placing the magnetic pads on the fully assembled mount, removing the film covering the adhesive and then slowly lowering the antenna into position. Once it's down, that's it, it's not moving again. A careful person and a heat gun would be needed to remove these metal pads if ever required. Kinematic constraint calls for the loosening of one of the magnetic rubber pads, or else the fixed position mount will not sit perfectly flat on the slightly curved roof. Once it's mounted, slide it laterally to remove and loosen one of the front pads a half turn (or so), so it can wobble. Carefully reinstall. Magnetic force propagates with 1/r^3 so it will really "snap" down and could break your top glass if you just drop it down. Slow and steady, provide ample reverse pre-loading of the mount when lowering it down.
Cable guide / Cable hider
Cable insertion point into the hatchback area
Cable insertion into the interior. No leaks.
View of the power supply fed by another cable hider.
The cable is "almost" cinched by the hatchback, but after a month of openings and closings it appears completely undamaged. It makes a little frog sound, which was not expected, but acceptable.
One note: if you follow my setup exactly, you will also be enabling a special feature: a roof-mounted high frequency whistle that engages at around 50mph. This 4kHz acoustic beacon is intentional, based on CFD modeling of the vehicle-starlink interface, to scare away wildlife from highways where they would otherwise not hear the EV coming.
Disclaimer: DIY at your own risk; you may not be as flawless as I am.Satellite Antenna
I purchased my Starlink Mini from the Starlink website, with the Roaming plan @ $55/month.
The satellite antenna uses the Ku-band (12 GHz to 18 GHz). It is blocked by Mach-E's special glass.
Thankfully, the Starlink Mini's Wifi router signal, operating at a "normal" 5 GHz has no problem communicating with devices inside the vehicle.
To install, I purchased these products from Amazon:
B0GZYFWWYL - Starlink Mini Car Adapter with 10FT DC Power Cable
B0F675P2G2 - Mini Cord Hider
B0DRVS828C - Starlink Mini Mount, Magnetic
B086RRTBLW - 3M Adhesive Cord Organizer
B0H1779FHH - Starlink Mini Gen3 Magnetic Mount Plates
Photos:
Finished install
Close up of the adhesive mounts. They provide some tolerance to error if you place the antenna down slightly off.
I'd recommend first cleaning the roof really well, then placing the magnetic pads on the fully assembled mount, removing the film covering the adhesive and then slowly lowering the antenna into position. Once it's down, that's it, it's not moving again. A careful person and a heat gun would be needed to remove these metal pads if ever required. Kinematic constraint calls for the loosening of one of the magnetic rubber pads, or else the fixed position mount will not sit perfectly flat on the slightly curved roof. Once it's mounted, slide it laterally to remove and loosen one of the front pads a half turn (or so), so it can wobble. Carefully reinstall. Magnetic force propagates with 1/r^3 so it will really "snap" down and could break your top glass if you just drop it down. Slow and steady, provide ample reverse pre-loading of the mount when lowering it down.
Cable guide / Cable hider
Cable insertion point into the hatchback area
Cable insertion into the interior. No leaks.
View of the power supply fed by another cable hider.
The cable is "almost" cinched by the hatchback, but after a month of openings and closings it appears completely undamaged. It makes a little frog sound, which was not expected, but acceptable.
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