Ford factory A²B® (Automotive Audio Bus) & SYNC3

[MyLittlePony2022]

@ElectrikPony Thanks for providing the details. This gets me and others a little closer to being able to understand and possibly replace the factory amp.

I reviewed the wiring diagram and the instructions for the PAC interface. I know a bit about stereos but I would not consider myself an expert. I would assume that you can just run either the TOSLINK or the RCA connectors from the PAC to an amp in the back of the car. I chose the back since I want my new speaker amp and the new amp/subwoofer located in the back. I am going to run my power back there. Also, there is more room in the back.

I am thinking of just running the TOSLINK cable and not all the RCA cables. However, I am new to fiber optic cable and have to still research it. From what I can tell, the amp (Audison APF8.9) optical input only does 192kHz/24 bit signal and does not support Dolby DTS. Once the signal from the PAC is sent to the new amp, you just need to run speaker wire from the new amp to the speakers. Yes, you have to run power and signal to the back and speaker wires to the front, but that does not seem too bad. Not sure where I would put the amp if I did put it under the dash. Is there room under the dash for the amp?

My question is: The PAC wiring harness has speaker connections on the three wiring harnesses. I assume if you run either TOSLINK or RCA to the amp, you do not need to run those to the amp or am I missing something. Also, do you know anything about TOSLINK?

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[ElectrikPony]

@ElectrikPony

I reviewed the wiring diagram and the instructions for the PAC interface. I know a bit about stereos but I would not consider myself an expert. I would assume that you can just run either the TOSLINK or the RCA connectors from the PAC to an amp in the back of the car.

The PAC interface needs to be placed in the back of the car where the factory amp/dac is. You need to remove the audio engine cable from the factory amp/dac (blue cable below) and connect it to the PAC interface.

From the PAC interface you have the option of RCA (analog) or using a optical cable (in home audio yes it’s called TOSLINK).

There are two separate things going on with the “speaker harnesses”

1. The 20 pin harness (pictured below) is so you can feed the audio output from your aftermarket amp back into the factory ford wiring that goes to each speaker.

2.The front dash speakers are the only harness that is only in the front of the vehicle. This is due to the fact that those speakers are powered from the audio control unit that’s located in the front of the car.

so if you want to utilize those three speakers you either have to…

1. Extend the wires from the dash to the back
Of the car
2. Run a compact class d amp upfront under the dash.
3. Disconnect them and therefore not receive any audio through them.

 

[tjbain]

Hey y'all,

I too have been scouring the interwebs for a clean way to bypass that B&O DSP and add amps and decent speakers to my rig. I've been following along about the PAC interface. I'm certainly okay running wires to the back of my car in order to keep my 10 speaker setup, but here's where I am concerned: The PAC interface eventually puts out only 6 RCA plugs. To me, this means whatever amp I use is only going to be able to output to six speakers, right? I realize my rear door speakers can be run on only two summed channels (down from four channels, using a component setup). So that leaves me needing 8 outputs to power the remaining 8 channels, right?

Someone help me out here! I'm dying to see the light!

Cheers, my friends!

 

[ElectrikPony]

Hey y'all,

I too have been scouring the interwebs for a clean way to bypass that B&O DSP and add amps and decent speakers to my rig. I've been following along about the PAC interface. I'm certainly okay running wires to the back of my car in order to keep my 10 speaker setup, but here's where I am concerned: The PAC interface eventually puts out only 6 RCA plugs. To me, this means whatever amp I use is only going to be able to output to six speakers, right? I realize my rear door speakers can be run on only two summed channels (down from four channels, using a component setup). So that leaves me needing 8 outputs to power the remaining 8 channels, right?

Someone help me out here! I'm dying to see the light!

Cheers, my friends!

1. you could run the NAVTV unit that has 12 channels or outputs.

2. Do what I am going to do. Run two two-way (tweeter/midbass) in the 4 doors. That uses 4 channels. Use the 5th channel for a non-fading subwoofer. Disconnect the NAV factory speaker in the dash and the PAC unit can be selected via dip switches and software to send that output to the front speakers.

I see the small 3” speakers in the dash of very little significance. More speakers doesn’t necessarily mean better sound.

 

[Tngo23]

1. you could run the NAVTV unit that has 12 channels or outputs.

2. Do what I am going to do. Run two two-way (tweeter/midbass) in the 4 doors. That uses 4 channels. Use the 5th channel for a non-fading subwoofer. Disconnect the NAV factory speaker in the dash and the PAC unit can be selected via dip switches and software to send that output to the front speakers.

I see the small 3” speakers in the dash of very little significance. More speakers doesn’t necessarily mean better sound.

Randy,

I agree that more speakers don't necessarily mean a better sound but without a DSP, more speakers and placement of them can give you better imaging at certain locations.

While I was at the stereo shop, I asked the installer if upgrading the stock speakers would give me a clearer/louder sound to go with my new custom JL 10" Subwoofer/Amp set up, he said, it may but not much. However, adding an aftermarket DSP/Amp would improve the mids/hi dramatically. Obviously keeping the stock Head Unit.....

 

[ElectrikPony]

Randy,

I agree that more speakers don't necessarily mean a better sound but without a DSP, more speakers and placement of them can give you better imaging at certain locations.

While I was at the stereo shop, I asked the installer if upgrading the stock speakers would give me a clearer/louder sound to go with my new custom JL 10" Subwoofer/Amp set up, he said, it may but not much. However, adding an aftermarket DSP/Amp would improve the mids/hi dramatically. Obviously keeping the stock Head Unit.....

perhaps I should of made this more obvious in the initial post.

*** an external DSP or DSP/AMP combo is also required in addition to the PAC or NAVTV interfaces. ****

 

[Tngo23]

perhaps I should of made this more obvious in the initial post.

*** an external DSP or DSP/AMP combo is also required in addition to the PAC or NAVTV interfaces. ****

Naviks will available in a few months

https://naviks.com/i-24077344-2021-...in-motion-lockout-bypass-video-interface.html

 

[ElectrikPony]

Naviks will available in a few months

https://naviks.com/i-24077344-2021-...in-motion-lockout-bypass-video-interface.html

NavTV is a brand that makes the ford a2b interfaces. The link you posted is for something completely different. I’m trying to keep this thread factual so other folks do not get confused.

 

[Tngo23]

NavTV is a brand that makes the ford a2b interfaces. The link you posted is for something completely different. I’m trying to keep this thread factual so other folks do not get confused.

No worries.....

It's good to give ppl options my friend as you have lots of time to research with Naviks....I already have the MME and have explored different options.....

 

[ElectrikPony]

I talked to PAC-Audio today and there will be no AP4-FD31 units available until OCT/NOV 2022.

 

[ElectrikPony]

I talked to PAC-Audio today and there will be no AP4-FD31 units available until OCT/NOV 2022.

I have the PAC-AudioAP4-FD31 in my hands. This item is very hard to get!

 

[CzarR]

The PAC interface needs to be placed in the back of the car where the factory amp/dac is. You need to remove the audio engine cable from the factory amp/dac (blue cable below) and connect it to the PAC interface.

From the PAC interface you have the option of RCA (analog) or using a optical cable (in home audio yes it’s called TOSLINK).

There are two separate things going on with the “speaker harnesses”

1. The 20 pin harness (pictured below) is so you can feed the audio output from your aftermarket amp back into the factory ford wiring that goes to each speaker.

2.The front dash speakers are the only harness that is only in the front of the vehicle. This is due to the fact that those speakers are powered from the audio control unit that’s located in the front of the car.

so if you want to utilize those three speakers you either have to…

1. Extend the wires from the dash to the back
Of the car
2. Run a compact class d amp upfront under the dash.
3. Disconnect them and therefore not receive any audio through them.

I presume the blue wire (audio engine cable) has full range signal, correct???

Also, is the PAC not compatible with 2022 MY. Wonder why it is not in the list.

 

[ElectrikPony]

I presume the blue wire (audio engine cable) has full range signal, correct???

Also, is the PAC not compatible with 2022 MY. Wonder why it is not in the list.

yes that’s the audio engine wire the blue one.

no pac audio hasn’t explicitly tested a 2022 Mach-e, however the stereo system is a carryover from 2021 model.

 

[CzarR]

yes that’s the audio engine wire the blue one.

no pac audio hasn’t explicitly tested a 2022 Mach-e, however the stereo system is a carryover from 2021 model.

Got you.

And that blue wire has a full range signal, correct? Asking because as you mentioned front 3 speakers get direct input from the ACH. So want to make sure I am not missing on that signal(center and tweeter frequencies) when I use external DSP/AMP for all the 10 speakers.

 

[ElectrikPony]

Got you.

And that blue wire has a full range signal, correct? Asking because as you mentioned front 3 speakers get direct input from the ACH. So want to make sure I am not missing on that signal(center and tweeter frequencies) when I use external DSP/AMP for all the 10 speakers.

the signal provided by the blue wire is “digital”. Everything is sent unfiltered to the pac interface, where it then can be output to either digital or analog rca. The pac interface is your limiting factor. You will get 6 channels , not 6 speaker outputs.

you can then decide which speakers you want on each of those 6 channels. 99% of people will have front (L/R) , rear (L/R) a center channel (Mono) and a sub channel (also mono) .

ThIs assumes you plan to use 2 pairs of a 2-way component speaker system of your choosing ( tweeter and a mid/woofer ).

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