2021 Mach-E Unresponsive this morning.

Sir_Blah

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TLDR - cold night, can't open doors or Frunk. Trying to figure out what to do next.

I have had my 2021 MME since April and have absolutely loved it, today is the first time I ever had any issue with it.

So last night it got pretty cold (-4F), and my MME was left outside hooked up to my level 1 EVSE.

This morning I woke up and saw the notification that I had reached a 90% SOC, which is as expected. My departure time is set for 9am even though I may not leave for another hour or so (my commute is very short so I don't worry about that much). At 9:06 I got 2 simultaneous messages from the app, although I initially only saw the last one saying that my cabin temperature was ready.

Around 10:30 I opened my app to start the climate control again, this time I noticed that the app said was at 90% SOC but also says "charging error", I also notice the first message form earlier stating that the alarm was triggered from a door being opened.

When I got down to the car, it was completely unresponsive. None of the doors opened, key fob didn't work, app didn't work, didn't respond at all to being unplugged or plugged back in.

I tried applying 12v to the cables in the front to pop the frunk so I could try jumping the car, but that did not work. The frunk would not open, because of this i was wondering if the 12v battery really died or if there is some other issue.



I am waiting on a call back from the dealership, but in the meantime I'm curious if anyone else has thought or suggetions.
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Mach-Lee

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I tried applying 12v to the cables in the front to pop the frunk so I could try jumping the car, but that did not work. The frunk would not open, because of this i was wondering if the 12v battery really died or if there is some other issue.
What did you use to apply 12V? It has to be a 12V battery, NOT a battery charger. If you are using a lithium jump start pack, you MUST use the override feature to apply voltage when there is none sensed. Some jump packs do not have this feature and won't be able to open the frunk.
 
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Sir_Blah

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What did you use to apply 12V? It has to be a 12V battery, NOT a battery charger. If you are using a lithium jump start pack, you MUST use the override feature to apply voltage when there is none sensed. Some jump packs do not have this feature and won't be able to open the frunk.
This is what I used.

DieHard Platinum 2000 Peak Amp Lithium Jump Starter and Power Pack: Safe Smart Cable and Clamps

I did measure before and after I hooked it up, both did show that it was outputting 12v.
 

Mach-Lee

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This is what I used.

DieHard Platinum 2000 Peak Amp Lithium Jump Starter and Power Pack: Safe Smart Cable and Clamps

I did measure before and after I hooked it up, both did show that it was outputting 12v.
That model does not appear to have an override button, so it will not work for opening the frunk. There is zero voltage on the frunk leads so it will not auto trigger the output like cranking an engine will.

Jump starter requirements from my FAQ:

What type of jump pack should I get for the Mach-E?

Avoid the larger traditional type with a lead acid battery inside, they are not powerful enough. I recommend lithium jump packs instead. In terms of amperage rating, I would look for something with at least 2000A peak amps and capable of starting a 6.0L diesel engine. However the most important thing the lithium jump pack needs to have is a manual override or boost button, otherwise it will be useless for opening the frunk! I see not all brands have this feature anymore, so double check before purchase! The override allows the jump pack to supply power even when no voltage is detected on the terminals (which is the case with the frunk leads). The override is usually a small button somewhere on the safety device at the base of the jumper cables. My preferred brands are NOCO or GOOLOO which do have the boost/override capability. Read the owner's manual to understand how to use the override button on your specific jump pack.

NOTE: Do not store the jump pack inside the Mach-E, you won't be able to get to it if the 12V battery dies. Store it at home or in a different vehicle instead.

You can also use a traditional full-size car battery, which should have enough power.

8x AA batteries in series (12V) will open the frunk, but is obviously not enough power for a jump. A 9V battery will not work whatsoever.
 


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Sir_Blah

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That model does not appear to have an override button, so it will not work for opening the frunk. There is zero voltage on the frunk leads so it will not auto trigger the output like cranking an engine will.

Jump starter requirements from my FAQ:

What type of jump pack should I get for the Mach-E?

Avoid the larger traditional type with a lead acid battery inside, they are not powerful enough. I recommend lithium jump packs instead. In terms of amperage rating, I would look for something with at least 2000A peak amps and capable of starting a 6.0L diesel engine. However the most important thing the lithium jump pack needs to have is a manual override or boost button, otherwise it will be useless for opening the frunk! I see not all brands have this feature anymore, so double check before purchase! The override allows the jump pack to supply power even when no voltage is detected on the terminals (which is the case with the frunk leads). The override is usually a small button somewhere on the safety device at the base of the jumper cables. My preferred brands are NOCO or GOOLOO which do have the boost/override capability. Read the owner's manual to understand how to use the override button on your specific jump pack.

NOTE: Do not store the jump pack inside the Mach-E, you won't be able to get to it if the 12V battery dies. Store it at home or in a different vehicle instead.

You can also use a traditional full-size car battery, which should have enough power.

8x AA batteries in series (12V) will open the frunk, but is obviously not enough power for a jump. A 9V battery will not work whatsoever.
Ok, it boggles my mind that i was measuring 12V from that Jump Starter while it was connected to those cables, but it still wouldn't pop the frunk. However I just happen to have a new 8 pack of AA batteries... and that did the trick.

After getting to the frunk, that jump starter would only keep my LVB live for about 30 seconds.

I tried using my girlfriends car to jump it, left them connected for about 20 mins, but still couldn't get my MME out of accessory mode. I was really hoping I could at least get it into the garage.

Still outside, but it's not going to be anywhere near as cold tonight. It's plugged back in to my L1 EVSE, I heard the L1 will trickle charge the LVB.

Hopefully I will be able to breathe a little life back into my MME and give it a good drive tomorrow to get a good charge back on the LVB. If not, the tow truck is coming by tomorrow morning.
 

Mach-Lee

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Ok, it boggles my mind that i was measuring 12V from that Jump Starter while it was connected to those cables, but it still wouldn't pop the frunk. However I just happen to have a new 8 pack of AA batteries... and that did the trick.

After getting to the frunk, that jump starter would only keep my LVB live for about 30 seconds.

I tried using my girlfriends car to jump it, left them connected for about 20 mins, but still couldn't get my MME out of accessory mode. I was really hoping I could at least get it into the garage.

Still outside, but it's not going to be anywhere near as cold tonight. It's plugged back in to my L1 EVSE, I heard the L1 will trickle charge the LVB.

Hopefully I will be able to breathe a little life back into my MME and give it a good drive tomorrow to get a good charge back on the LVB. If not, the tow truck is coming by tomorrow morning.
The jump pack must give a false voltage reading. Or was showing you the internal battery voltage. Can't always trust what you see on these things.

So are you sure it's charging now? Blue light pulsing?

You should plan on replacing the 12V battery ASAP if it's original.
 
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Sir_Blah

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The jump pack must give a false voltage reading. Or was showing you the internal battery voltage. Can't always trust what you see on these things.

So are you sure it's charging now? Blue light pulsing?

You should plan on replacing the 12V battery ASAP if it's original.
Well it was charging (blue pulsing lights and all) for about an hour. Just got another charging error so I went to check on it, she's dead again.

Hope Santa brings me a new 12V battery for Christmas haha.

Thanks for your help.
 

rcechinel

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That model does not appear to have an override button, so it will not work for opening the frunk. There is zero voltage on the frunk leads so it will not auto trigger the output like cranking an engine will.

Jump starter requirements from my FAQ:

What type of jump pack should I get for the Mach-E?

Avoid the larger traditional type with a lead acid battery inside, they are not powerful enough. I recommend lithium jump packs instead. In terms of amperage rating, I would look for something with at least 2000A peak amps and capable of starting a 6.0L diesel engine. However the most important thing the lithium jump pack needs to have is a manual override or boost button, otherwise it will be useless for opening the frunk! I see not all brands have this feature anymore, so double check before purchase! The override allows the jump pack to supply power even when no voltage is detected on the terminals (which is the case with the frunk leads). The override is usually a small button somewhere on the safety device at the base of the jumper cables. My preferred brands are NOCO or GOOLOO which do have the boost/override capability. Read the owner's manual to understand how to use the override button on your specific jump pack.

NOTE: Do not store the jump pack inside the Mach-E, you won't be able to get to it if the 12V battery dies. Store it at home or in a different vehicle instead.

You can also use a traditional full-size car battery, which should have enough power.

8x AA batteries in series (12V) will open the frunk, but is obviously not enough power for a jump. A 9V battery will not work whatsoever.
@Mach-Lee, do you have a recommendation for a good and not expensive lithium jump pack?
 

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That model does not appear to have an override button, so it will not work for opening the frunk. There is zero voltage on the frunk leads so it will not auto trigger the output like cranking an engine will.

Jump starter requirements from my FAQ:

What type of jump pack should I get for the Mach-E?

Avoid the larger traditional type with a lead acid battery inside, they are not powerful enough. I recommend lithium jump packs instead. In terms of amperage rating, I would look for something with at least 2000A peak amps and capable of starting a 6.0L diesel engine. However the most important thing the lithium jump pack needs to have is a manual override or boost button, otherwise it will be useless for opening the frunk! I see not all brands have this feature anymore, so double check before purchase! The override allows the jump pack to supply power even when no voltage is detected on the terminals (which is the case with the frunk leads). The override is usually a small button somewhere on the safety device at the base of the jumper cables. My preferred brands are NOCO or GOOLOO which do have the boost/override capability. Read the owner's manual to understand how to use the override button on your specific jump pack.

NOTE: Do not store the jump pack inside the Mach-E, you won't be able to get to it if the 12V battery dies. Store it at home or in a different vehicle instead.

You can also use a traditional full-size car battery, which should have enough power.

8x AA batteries in series (12V) will open the frunk, but is obviously not enough power for a jump. A 9V battery will not work whatsoever.
I saw temu.com sold 12v battery of the size of AA battery. Have not tried though, don’t know if it has enough current. But you can parallel connect a few together.
 

rcechinel

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I saw temu.com sold 12v battery of the size of AA battery. Have not tried though, don’t know if it has enough current. But you can parallel connect a few together.
But we should have something that can both open the frunk AND jump start the car... This is the Amazon recommended one. Would it do the trick?
https://a.co/d/2QfXtob
 

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But we should have something that can both open the frunk AND jump start the car... This is the Amazon recommended one. Would it do the trick?
https://a.co/d/2QfXtob
It looks more powerful than a small battery but you can't leave it in the car. What I'm thinking is small batteries can be stored next to the jumper wires inside the pumper cover. The space near the two wires is big enough for it.
To jump charge the 12v battery you do need to ask for jump service or you can keep your jumper in frunk as long as you can pop the hood.
I really like Mach-Lee 's string trick. I made one myself too.
 
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Sir_Blah

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So an update, because it has been fun.

So my MME was towed to the dealership and they did end up replacing the 12v battery. All worked fine for a week.

Monday evening as I was trying to leave work, I noticed when I used my remote start that the car started for a few seconds then shut off. That's interesting I thought. As I walked up to the car, it lit up like normal and I was able to open the doors. When I tried to start the car, I got fifty million messages on my instrument cluster, "Stop Safely Now", "Service Vehicle Soon", "Auto Hold System Fault".

...Ugh...

The battery light was on, and I live in the northeast where it hasnt really gotten above 25°F for the last few days, so I figured maybe the 12v is just low enough to not let me start the car. I called security and they tried to jump me with a NOCO, but that didn't seem to work. The next day I brought my NOCO to see if I could just leave that connected for an hour or so to see if that would give me enough charge on the 12v to get the car started.

But alas, for the second time in less than 2 weeks, I had my car towed back to the dealership.

@Mach-Lee, do you have a recommendation for a good and not expensive lithium jump pack?
This is exactly what I got, it is around $200-250 depending where you buy it. But it is enough to open the frunk and get access to your car when the battery is dead dead.
https://no.co/gb70
I can not overstate how important that booster/override button is.

If you just need a cheap way to open the frunk when the 12v dies, then just keep an 8 pack of AA batteries and some neodymium magnets on hand.
 

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This is exactly what I got, it is around $200-250 depending where you buy it. But it is enough to open the frunk and get access to your car when the battery is dead dead.
https://no.co/gb70
I can not overstate how important that booster/override button is.
I bought this one (3000 amps). It says it has a boost button, and I saw reviews of people saying that. I just couldn't "see it" in the picture. But it's quite cheaper than the Noco, but @Mach-Lee said it's a good brand.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D4DLXNR1?smid=AU30U33PEM3VY&ref_=chk_typ_imgToDp&th=1
 
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Sir_Blah

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I bought this one (3000 amps). It says it has a boost button, and I saw reviews of people saying that. I just couldn't "see it" in the picture. But it's quite cheaper than the Noco, but @Mach-Lee said it's a good brand.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D4DLXNR1?smid=AU30U33PEM3VY&ref_=chk_typ_imgToDp&th=1
Awesome! I have seen other people recommending GOOLOO as well. It's interesting that they don't have a good picture of the boost button or the manual for that model on their website. But for anyone else looking at the "GOOLOO A3 Jump Starter with Air Compressor" it looks like the boost button is here.

Ford Mustang Mach-E 2021 Mach-E Unresponsive this morning. 1000016876
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