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One thing that is not a myth, never buy an electric vehicle from Ford. Been there, done that, one of the worst decisions of my life. Traded my Mach-e in at 17,000 miles for a gas guzzling Jeep and have never looked back.

AtoZ Thyphoon Pro works flawlessly on my 2021. I have been waiting since February for my Ford Adapter. New target shipping date is January 2025. I got tired of waiting, and there are 12 Tesla chargers 4 blocks from my house. Now Ford is saying I have voided my warranty by using them. If you...

Thanks for the information.

Update: Finally got the car started with a batter jump pack. Limped to the dealer and they said the computer had to be erased and completely reprogrammed. Unfortunately, they made one error and the car is now a fleet car owned by the dealer. I have lost access to many of the options as I am...

Not a battery issue, a screwed up software issue. My car was bricked due to a dead 12V battery. Both key fobs with new batteries stopped working. Both had to be reprogrammed by the dealer, there is no self fix. Fobs are administrator keys that have to be programmed by the dealer. Both work...

My real hard key fobs both stopped working with the most resent brick of my 21. PAAK also quit working. The only way to lock and unlock the car was with the driver's door keypad. If anything can go wrong it will go wrong at the worst possible moment. Ford is going to be sued when a...

Best warranty is don't buy any Mach-E or any other Ford vehicle. MY Mach-E is an absolute nightmare. Only good for sitting in my garage and giving me a new error code every time I start it. Bricked the 3rd time in 9 months, this time by the dealer.

I paid $240 for my replacement 12V battery at 24 months, so $189 is a bargain. I doubt Walmart has a size that fits.

It has not been this way ever on my 21 CR1. Most recent episode: Gone for 16 days in August on vacation. HVB at 85%, LVB completely charged when I left. Came home, car bricked. Had to use the frunk break in procedure with my jump pack. When I finally got it turned on, HVB at 83%. So no...

Vehicle has so many engineering problems which are not fixable that a complete restart on a new vehicle is needed. If they are really losing $100K to $150K on each sale, why would they continue?

I am. Both key fobs don't work. The rear door cannot be opened. The only way to lock and unlock the car is with the keypad. Constant, I think false, warning about the tire pressure and 12V battery. Most of my saved navigation points gone. That is as close to undriveable as I want to get.

New batteries both key fobs, no change, they don't work. Rear door won't open no matter what. Only way to lock and unlock is to use the keypad. Display if front of steering wheel now changes every day. Long since gave up on PAK and turned it off. Motion detector off. I am supposed to get...

Tried the battery disconnect for 30 minutes. No change. New batteries in both key fobs, no change. Now the 12 volt outlet in the center console is dead. Constant low tire warnings regardless of how much air they have. Almost like a lightning strike but the car was in the garage for 16 days...

I already left the 12V on the trickle charger for 24 hrs. Noco Genius 10 says the battery is fully charged but no change in the bricking. Hard to drive a car when the key fobs don't work, rear door can't be opened, the low tire alert is constantly on, and most of my persona settings have...

The Mach-E is currently undrivable, key fobs don't work, rear door cannot be opened, most of my personal settings are gone, constant tire pressure warnings when all tires are at 45 lbs, Alexa does not work, cannot get updates. I guess the best option for me is to trade for a 2025 Toyota battery...

My second glass lead-acid battery has failed when only 6 months old and has bricked my car. If I put a $479 Ohmmu Lithium in myself, does it void the Ford Warranty? After the bricking, there are so many problems with the car it will probably be in the shop at least a month. It is still...

I can try the disconnect tomorrow. I think I went through a disconnect as multiple setting on the central console are changed.

I have a 21 CR1 Mach-E. After an away 16 day vacation, the 12V battery was completely dead. I was able to wake up the 12V with a jumpstart pack. Now, the console says, "No Key Detected" when I try to start it. Nothing works with the key fob. I have 2 original key fobs and get the same...

Don't have time to work on this right now. Car still drivable. May have time to send the VIN in a few days.

I have not been able to get any updates on my 21 for the last 8 months. Good luck or bad luck? Car will not connect to AT&T.