So...charging your battery to 100% regularly is NOT RECOMMENDED. Manual says 90%. I won't bore you with all of the science you can easily find by googling it. tl;dr - your battery will last longer if you keep the SOC between 40 and 90 as much as possible.
So...charging your battery to 100% regularly is NOT RECOMMENDED. Manual says 90%. I won't bore you with all of the science you can easily find by googling it. tl;dr - your battery will last longer if you keep the SOC between 40 and 90 as much as possible.
Don't worry. Quite literally, your mileage may vary (YMMV). My example: In Seattle (cool and frequently rainy), driven hard (max acceleration 90% of the time), driven on highways (60-75 depending on flow of traffic), driven sideways (it is, after all, a Mustang).
Driving like grandma is all...
Mix of city/suburb/highway. If I'm in front, I give it 100% until I hit the speed limit...so not very long, and I frequently overshoot by a bit. The acceleration is too much fun, and I'm STILL beating the tar out of the EPA's estimates.
That's not magneride itself, that would be a possible software...thing. Depends how it's configured, but the new generations of magneride are able to be adjusted ridiculously quickly/"intelligently" by software.
This is just the guessing-computer recomputing its guesses far more frequently than an ICE car, and with more room for shifts because ICE cars' baseline thermal efficiency sucks by comparison and doesn't shift as much due to external temp/driving habits/heat being on/etc...
It'd be like watching...
The warning that popped up on my speedo display (I wasn't quick enough to get a pic of it this morning, sadly) said something along the lines of "Estimated range modified due to external temperature". Could have been that? (edit: I know you said it didn't change, but from the car's perspective...
You say no one...I've had at least a half dozen give me some variation of the "hand cupped to ear trying to hear" as I went by...which to me is kind of the EV equivalent :P
Did the temperature change? Did you get the same mi/kwh on that drive that you've gotten on most of your other drives? The listed "range/dist-to-empty" is going to vary a lot more in an EV than an ICE vehicle because more variable affect them. ICEs are like 12-30% thermal efficiency (depends on...
Wait, you mean the EPA estimate was for 100% charge? hahahahaha (Always unbridled, always max acceleration to ~speedlimit. Anyone who says you have to drive like grandma to get max range is lying to you)
I've turned off phone and car connectivity to the internet and parked in a basement parking garage for 24 hours with 0 signal to the car. If wifi (5GHz) and Bluetooth (BOTH connections to the car) are on and connected, PaaK works. No internet. (Android 11 required, no clue for iOS)
Try adjusting the springs/stoppers on the left and right side. I tightened/lowered both of mine a bit and the frunk closes with just a drop from the described height. YMMV.
On the left and right side of your frunk, there are a couple of those stoppers that you can adjust how aggressive they are...I dialed mine in about a turn and a quarter each, now I can just drop it for 100% close.
The First Edition/ERAWD acceleration is going to be semi-directly comparable with the dual motor long range MY, not the performance (you can see the numbers, it's about a .6sec difference 0-60). Unless you wait for the MMEGT, which should theoretically be a direct comparison with the performance...
If it was actually about the environment and getting people to use electric cars, Tesla would have agreed to adopt the standard rather than keep chugging away with a proprietary plug. Just switch to the J1772/CCS and be done with it.
(Edit: Imagine car company X deciding that all of their ICE...
On the topic of comparison to Volt, I had a Bolt previously. The size of electric motor/s involved probably also plays a role, but to me the MME sounds similar to the Bolt (recognizable as electricmotorgozoom noises), but a little louder. That said, I don't notice it at all if the stereo volume...