TSB 23-2155 Camera Fix diy help

[txaggies07]

I don’t really want to do this myself but I also don’t want to deal with the dealer on it. I am getting the U3000:49 error that won’t go away and in the history I have the U3000:89 error.

Reading the TSB I believe I need to do the following:
1) step 27 to reset the IPMA
2) back to beginning of TSB and replace the coax cable

To reset the IPMA it looks like I need FDRS. This means I will need to get the mongoose and a 2 day license.

On the coax I have the following questions.
1) How do I determine which cable I need?

1. LJ8Z-14D202-V (Built With Minor Feature Code HKLAG, HKLAH, And/Or J3QAD)
2. LJ8Z-14D202-W (Built With Minor Feature Code HKLAF And/Or J3QAA)
3. LJ8Z-14D202-U

2) does anyone have better routing guides than what is in that TSB. Some of those pictures are hard to tell what they are referring to.

Lastly, am I crazy?

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[rbertonieresr]

If you’re in Warrenty get the dealer to do it. I printed out the tsb and brought it with me. They kept my car for 11 days mostly due to waiting on one of the parts they needed to change out. When picking it up, the listed work looked like it came right from the tsb. I haven’t had any issues since.

 

[iam-s-Hon]

FWIW.. I was having similar errors. Finally dropped it off when I had a chance. Used a diff dealer for first time since they had drop-off/pick-up service. All they did per dx was reprogram the IPMA. No new parts required. So, far have not had an issue since and used BC on a recent work trip for first time in months.

Cost was a few hundred bucks, which I think is less than the quotes to replace the cable, which I had checked the first leg myself and detected no issue.

Good luck.

 

[txaggies07]

If you’re in Warrenty get the dealer to do it. I printed out the tsb and brought it with me. They kept my car for 11 days mostly due to waiting on one of the parts they needed to change out. When picking it up, the listed work looked like it came right from the tsb. I haven’t had any issues since.

I am out of warranty. If I was still in warranty I would let them have at it.

 

[txaggies07]

FWIW.. I was having similar errors. Finally dropped it off when I had a chance. Used a diff dealer for first time since they had drop-off/pick-up service. All they did per dx was reprogram the IPMA. No new parts required. So, far have not had an issue since and used BC on a recent work trip for first time in months.

Cost was a few hundred bucks, which I think is less than the quotes to replace the cable, which I had checked the first leg myself and detected no issue.

Good luck.

Thanks. I am going to try and do that reset myself with FDRS first and hope I don’t need to replace any cables.

 

[rugedraw]

Thanks. I am going to try and do that reset myself with FDRS first and hope I don’t need to replace any cables.

You can reboot the IPMA with FORScan.

 

[360alaska]

I made this post, I guess noone saw it:


Here is my post from the other thread:


I did it myself, by my observation, the original front camera cable is in a state of tension, and if you follow each of the cables they are subject to a number of sharp twists. Furthermore, the instructions indicate that only some cars will have the APIM jumper, but near as I can tell they all will since our car doesn't have BC yet still had the jumper. Also, I used split loom cables under the dash.

Here is a photo Dump:

 

[360alaska]

If you get the cables and want some help I'm about a 4 hour drive and will help for a fair donation.

Here's how it went for me:
1.Problem occured, re-calibrate, good for about a month.
2.Problem re-occured, change camera, re-calibrate, good for about a month.
3.Problem re-occured, change cable, re-calibrate, good so far.

 

[txaggies07]

I made this post, I guess noone saw it:


Here is my post from the other thread:


I did it myself, by my observation, the original front camera cable is in a state of tension, and if you follow each of the cables they are subject to a number of sharp twists. Furthermore, the instructions indicate that only some cars will have the APIM jumper, but near as I can tell they all will since our car doesn't have BC yet still had the jumper. Also, I used split loom cables under the dash.

Here is a photo Dump:

Thank you so much for this. I had seen some of these pictures on a google search, but when I clicked it it said the thread wasn't there so I couldn't see any of the context.

From your images I have some questions.
1) The purple line in the one that shows the cable routes. Where exactly did you route that? It looks like that is going to the IPMA. If so, where exactly is the IPMA?
2) The orange wire it looks like runs along the ground instead of through the headliner. Would it be possible to run it through the roof and stay out of the A-pillar?

 

[txaggies07]

If you get the cables and want some help I'm about a 4 hour drive and will help for a fair donation.

Here's how it went for me:
1.Problem occured, re-calibrate, good for about a month.
2.Problem re-occured, change camera, re-calibrate, good for about a month.
3.Problem re-occured, change cable, re-calibrate, good so far.

If my wife ever takes my kids on vacation with me again I am there.

 

[360alaska]

Thank you so much for this. I had seen some of these pictures on a google search, but when I clicked it it said the thread wasn't there so I couldn't see any of the context.

From your images I have some questions.
1) The purple line in the one that shows the cable routes. Where exactly did you route that? It looks like that is going to the IPMA. If so, where exactly is the IPMA?
2) The orange wire it looks like runs along the ground instead of through the headliner. Would it be possible to run it through the roof and stay out of the A-pillar?

#1: this one:

#2 that thought had occurred to me, you probably could, I figure, the reason they don't is due to the glass roof models. But keep in mind you'll need a way to keep the ends together, since normally the A-Pillar connector keeps them connected. You could probably connect the ends and put some heat shrink over them to keep them firmly connected.

 

[txaggies07]

#1: this one:

#2 that thought had occurred to me, you probably could, I figure, the reason they don't is due to the glass roof models. But keep in mind you'll need a way to keep the ends together, since normally the A-Pillar connector keeps them connected. You could probably connect the ends and put some heat shrink over them to keep them firmly connected.

Did you replace the connector from the wire to the camera? If so, where did you buy it?

 

[360alaska]

I don't understand what you mean?

 

[greenaero]

@ 360alaska,
How did you get the coaxial cable out of the C900 connector at the A pillar? I have the c900 connector separated but I can't figure how the coax pin end releases from the socket. Any help is greatly appreciated. many thx

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