TSB 23-2155 - Front Camera Fault - DTCs C1001:31, U3000:89, And/Or U3000:49 Stored In The IPMA

[Michal_23]

I did it myself, by my observation, the original front camera cable is in a state of tension, and if you follow each of the cables they are subject to a number of sharp twists. Furthermore, the instructions indicate that only some cars will have the APIM jumper, but near as I can tell they all will since our car doesn't have BC yet still had the jumper. Also, I used split loom cables under the dash.

Here is a photo Dump:

How did you manage to remove wires from that C900 connector?
Especially coax cable. I was pulling it so hard that almost stripped insulation and still nothing.
Is there any trick to that?

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[360alaska]

I assume your talking about the connection at the A-pillar, you must remove the connector shroud, at which point there are some tabs you can depress to pull it out.

 

[Michal_23]

All right, I bought a new camera and coex cable. Tested them separately and together, nothing helps. Any other ideas what can be wrong?

Background info - I had this issue coming and going for several weeks until one day it become permanent.

 

[360alaska]

Are you saying you replaced the cable set and camera? If you change the camera, you must calibrate with FDRS or forscan. The IPMA is able to detect the serial number from the camera and if you change it the calibration is dumped. Installing the old camera will not reverse this. I learned this the hard way and had to reach out to the Forscan Team and ask them to add the function.


Also, if you change the cable set you should do both the front camera and "trailer backup assist" calibration since this calibrates the back camera.

 

[ryan445]

Are you saying you replaced the cable set and camera? If you change the camera, you must calibrate with FDRS or forscan. The IPMA is able to detect the serial number from the camera and if you change it the calibration is dumped. Installing the old camera will not reverse this. I learned this the hard way and had to reach out to the Forscan Team and ask them to add the function.


Also, if you change the cable set you should do both the front camera and "trailer backup assist" calibration since this calibrates the back camera.

I am also looking into DIYing the cable. I want to start with the first cable. Camera to A pillar.

Would I still need to recalibrate with for scan for that one?

 

[360alaska]

The car will not require it unless you change the camera with another, but the answer is that it should be calibrated each time you change a component.

 

[supertrooperx]

Is there a part # of the cables you purchased. I looked at the TSB and seems like there are a few part #'s. Not sure which one applies.

 

[RobC86]

YES I miss the auto high beams. It took me awhile to realize they were gone. I miss even regular cruise control as much as I drive. Error error error ok ok ok gets old every time you turn the car on. And it’s embarrassing with anyone else in it watching you clear all the error messages so you can drive.

On the plus side I seem to have picked up a nifty crackle in the middle speaker, so when the car turns on and the error ding goes off it sounds real futuristic. Didn’t expect that feature.

That’s actually a different issue. That center speaker is garbage. Dealership wanted to charge me over $400 to replace it. I got a kicker speaker off Amazon that fit the slot and replaced it myself in about 10 minutes. Sounds much better and extremely easy to do.

 

[greenaero]

I did it myself, by my observation, the original front camera cable is in a state of tension, and if you follow each of the cables they are subject to a number of sharp twists. Furthermore, the instructions indicate that only some cars will have the APIM jumper, but near as I can tell they all will since our car doesn't have BC yet still had the jumper. Also, I used split loom cables under the dash.

Here is a photo Dump:

If you could give precise details on how you safely removed the Coax cable from the front camera I'd greatly appreciate it. Thx again for sharing your DIY repair.

 

[greenaero]

This is an update to TSB 23-2137 that adds additional trouble codes and clarifies parts ordering. This is the TSB to fix coaxial cable issues causing Front Camera Fault Service Required messages. The TSB directs replacement of the camera coax cable first above the headliner, and if that doesn't work then it continues down the A pillar and floor

I'm replacing my coax cable but I can't get the old cable to release from the c900 connector at the A Pillar. I have the connector separated from the harness that goes back to the IPMA . Does the white interior need to be removed or can the cable pin be removed some other way? I've tried but I'm afraid of destroying the connector. there are sliders on the outside but I can't get them to move. Any help is greatly
appreciated. @ 360alaska?

 

[greenaero]

I figured out the c900 connector: after separating it you have remove the white interior plastic retainer by pushing down tabs in the shroud while sliding the exterior white tabs. Not intuitive. I tried the new cable but it is a bit different. The camera end has a different fitting than the C900 connector tabs don't grab. Its too loose and doesn't control the insertion depth. It tried it before re-installing everything, still getting the error messages. I wonder if I need recalibration. Maybe just not getting a good connection the new cable.
I'll be doing more testing and will report my results.

 

[greenaero]

update. I ordered the wrong cable, the correct one should be LJ8Z-14 D202 U for my 2021. I'm tired of driving around with the A pillar and headliner opened up and I will report again once I receive the correct cable. The hardest part of this job is opening the cable connnectors to remove the coaxial cable.

 

[Gardenhard]

That’s actually a different issue. That center speaker is garbage. Dealership wanted to charge me over $400 to replace it. I got a kicker speaker off Amazon that fit the slot and replaced it myself in about 10 minutes. Sounds much better and extremely easy to do.

Oh no it definitely was a different issue, eventually fixed in a separate service trip after the front camera repair saga, and covered by the extended warranty.

 

[kennelh]

I started getting these messages intermittently about a month ago, right after I'd installed a dash cam. I pulled off the cover under the rear mirror and voilà my cable looks exactly like @Mach-Lee's second photo (cable is going straight up into the roof). I've got the extended warranty but not thrilled with having the dealership pull apart half the interior to replace it.

If the cable should ideally plug in facing the driver's side, can the cable just be rotated into that position to see if it fixes it, or at least reduces the frequency? DO I have anything to lose trying this?

 

[Mach-Lee]

I started getting these messages intermittently about a month ago, right after I'd installed a dash cam. I pulled off the cover under the rear mirror and voilà my cable looks exactly like @Mach-Lee's second photo (cable is going straight up into the roof). I've got the extended warranty but not thrilled with having the dealership pull apart half the interior to replace it.

If the cable should ideally plug in facing the driver's side, can the cable just be rotated into that position to see if it fixes it, or at least reduces the frequency? DO I have anything to lose trying this?

Yeah you can try repositioning it to see if it helps. My guess is probably but it won't fix it completely.

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