Eibach GT performance springs on a 4xer

[phil]

Phil, happy to hear you have the same conclusion that everyone else has had that's done this: "takes the edge off the bone-rattling stock suspension". And yes it is a straightforward installation. Changing out the sway bars will actually give you an even slightly better ride and make the car handle better. Would highly recommend that next.

Thanks for the recommendation, Mark. I intend to try out the springs for a while and then consider adding the Eibach sway bars.

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[mkhuffman]

Thanks for the recommendation, Mark. I intend to try out the springs for a while and then consider adding the Eibach sway bars.

When you finally put the bars on, you will be so glad you did. Since I have not tried the springs yet I cannot compare to those, but the bars make a dramatic difference in handling quality. Straight line comfort is improved some due to less left to right rocking, but when taking the twisties, you will be amazed how much better it is.

 

[phil]

When you finally put the bars on, you will be so glad you did. Since I have not tried the springs yet I cannot compare to those, but the bars make a dramatic difference in handling quality. Straight line comfort is improved some due to less left to right rocking, but when taking the twisties, you will be amazed how much better it is.

I'm sure you're right about the merits of the sway bars. But you may be overestimating the nature of my driving - mostly it's a routine commute on the freeway, trips to and from the grocery store, and nothing much more exciting than that. No twisties for me!

 

[markboris]

I'm sure you're right about the merits of the sway bars. But you may be overestimating the nature of my driving - mostly it's a routine commute on the freeway, trips to and from the grocery store, and nothing much more exciting than that. No twisties for me!

Besides dramatically improving the handling, as Mike said, there is a slight improvement in comfort. This is one of the first things I noticed when I installed the bars which were available months before the springs. The OEM bars have vulcanized rubber bushings keeping the bars from easily moving up and down giving a more firm ride. The Eibach bars (and Steeda's) have the typical poly bushings that allow the bar to easily move up and down giving a slightly more comfortable ride.

On another note Phil, you mentioned in your review post that your mechanic said to wait a week or so for the springs to settle. That really is not necessary. You just need to drive a few miles and they should settle enough for an alignment. I've replaced many springs on cars and also now the Mach-E and get the alignments done within the same day. I have it checked from Les Schwab within 30 days as they do a free alignment check within that time and there hasn't been a change. I will say there will be a slightly different reading but that is because every time you put your car on and off the alignment rack it will have a slightly different reading but is it very minor and always within spec.

 

[phil]

Besides dramatically improving the handling, as Mike said, there is a slight improvement in comfort. This is one of the first things I noticed when I installed the bars which were available months before the springs. The OEM bars have vulcanized rubber bushings keeping the bars from easily moving up and down giving a more firm ride. The Eibach bars (and Steeda's) have the typical poly bushings that allow the bar to easily move up and down giving a slightly more comfortable ride.

On another note Phil, you mentioned in your review post that your mechanic said to wait a week or so for the springs to settle. That really is not necessary. You just need to drive a few miles and they should settle enough for an alignment. I've replaced many springs on cars and also now the Mach-E and get the alignments done within the same day. I have it checked from Les Schwab within 30 days as they do a free alignment check within that time and there hasn't been a change. I will say there will be a slightly different reading but that is because every time you put your car on and off the alignment rack it will have a slightly different reading but is it very minor and always within spec.

Understood, and appreciate the explanations. I am working on paying closer attention to the handling of the car, so I'll be better able to see/feel the effects of the sway bar or any other modifications. I may never qualify as a car enthusiast, but I figure it's never too late to learn something!

 

[Dysan911]

Hey guys. got a ship notice on my swaybars. Question. Should I restrain myself from doing the springs now and better to wait and do it all at once or is there no real advantages to install the sway bars after the springs? Just wasn't sure if I'l have to duplicate a lot of efforts to do the bars like a week after the springs.

 

[HuntingPudel]

Hey guys. got a ship notice on my swaybars. Question. Should I restrain myself from doing the springs now and better to wait and do it all at once or is there no real advantages to install the sway bars after the springs? Just wasn't sure if I'l have to duplicate a lot of efforts to do the bars like a week after the springs.

About the only efforts you're going to duplicate will be wheel removal, ride height sensor disconnect, and disconnecting the drop links. ??

 

[markboris]

About the only efforts you're going to duplicate will be wheel removal, ride height sensor disconnect, and disconnecting the drop links. ??

So yes you will save time since the car is up in the air and already have the wheels off and the end links disconnected but not too big a deal if you have to do that over again.

 

[Dysan911]

Oh one quick thing as well. can the Jack stand be placed on this big section? Far left ? I was planning on jacking up the MME where the hole is between the arrows embossed in the plastic part at the top (hole left side of the bolt) and then lower it down on a 4ton jackstand on that big mesh looking box section far left in the pic. Want to make sure that was ok.

 

[HuntingPudel]

Oh one quick thing as well. can the Jack stand be placed on this big section? Far left ? I was planning on jacking up the MME where the hole is between the arrows embossed in the plastic part at the top (hole left side of the bolt) and then lower it down on a 4ton jackstand on that big mesh looking box section far left in the pic. Want to make sure that was ok.

It looks like someone tried to support your car by the plastic rocker skirt just forward of the arrow. The skirt is broken and pushed in, and the plastic rivet that holds it in place is sheared off. ??

I place my jack pads where the holes are in the frame rail and my car stands under the jack pads. That black metal frame rail is the only place it is safe to lift the car. Do not try to support the car’s weight outside of that frame rail. The “mesh looking box” is the battery cover. You will destroy your battery if you attempt to put your car’s weight on that. ??

 

[Dysan911]

Ahh ok. Fwiw I found that pic on the internet. It’s. Not of my actual vehicle thus no damage done to mine. ?. It was the only one I could find quick enough that had that other section I wanted to ask about.

how do you place the jack stand in that same spot thats now occupied by the jack?

 

[markboris]

Ahh ok. Fwiw I found that pic on the internet. It’s. Not of my actual vehicle thus no damage done to mine. ?. It was the only one I could find quick enough that had that other section I wanted to ask about.

how do you place the jack stand in that same spot thats now occupied by the jack?

You can jack up the car a little ahead or behind the area with the arrows and place the stands between the arrows or the reverse.

 

[mkhuffman]

Ahh ok. Fwiw I found that pic on the internet. It’s. Not of my actual vehicle thus no damage done to mine. ?. It was the only one I could find quick enough that had that other section I wanted to ask about.

how do you place the jack stand in that same spot thats now occupied by the jack?

What Mark said, but I have struggled with this myself. If you put the lift too far back, it lifts both wheels off the ground. Nothing happens, but it is a little disconcerting.

The picture below is when I replaced the front bar with the Steeda. Actually, I didn't need to lift it so high or remove the bottom cover. When I replaced the Steeda one with the Eibach bar, I just slid it through the opening and never got under the car. Hard to describe without showing you, but it was very easy. The front bar is definitely easier than the rear.

I hate getting under the car, so I used two jack stands on each side. One was not supporting the weight and was there in case the primary one failed. Yes, I know, paranoid. But I really hate it.

 

[HuntingPudel]

Ahh ok. Fwiw I found that pic on the internet. It’s. Not of my actual vehicle thus no damage done to mine. ?. It was the only one I could find quick enough that had that other section I wanted to ask about.

how do you place the jack stand in that same spot thats now occupied by the jack?

I use a load spreader and lift one side of the car at a time. It supports the front of the car’s frame rail somewhat behind the arrow area and the rear somewhat in front of the arrow area. That’s fine. It allows me to insert my pucks into the holes and place Jack stands under the pucks. ??

 

[Dysan911]

Oh yeah I am with you there. Having to lay under a car on Jackstands is never a great feeling. I just look at those pins and wonder where they were made. lol.


Great tips on the Sway bars too!. I was curious how those get installed. I assume both wheels have to be off and the front up in the air. I will attempt to slide it through as well since I'll be doing that sometime next week after the spring install.

So I ordered some of those little rubber cradle looking pads for Jack Stands. (See bottom of post) I also have a set of those hockey puck looking lifting pads for the Mach-e on the way as well. So if I'm correct I can jack the vehicle up with one of those pucks and then slide the jack stand with one of those rubber pads as close as possible to the Puck. The important thing is as long as it's somewhere on that rail and knowing the further away from the front the more it would tend to hold the entire side up which puts a lot more weight on the single jack stand.

I'm still baffled by that reinforced section not being able to support sitting on a jackstand. It appears the Lifting Rail is welded right into it and look how thick that thing is. .

Jack Stand Pads: https://www.amazon.com/TONDA-Univer...3&sprefix=jack+stand+pads,aps,139&sr=8-5&th=1

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