10-50R with a 40amp breaker, what are my options?

[Pioneer74]

The 10 series has two hots and a neutral. Most EVSEs need two hots and a ground. Many electrical boxes bond the neutral to ground, but you would need a qualified electrician to look at the circuit to ensure that the neutral can be used as a ground.

This is easy. Use green phase tape on the neutral at both ends to designate it as a ground. Land it on the ground lug on the receptacle and move it to the ground bar in the service panel.

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[xxiii]

I'm probably just going to go through qmerit (unless there are others EV ready?)

So far, I have:
get direct wired.
thicker than normal gauge, THHN, make sure it meets "continuous usage" requirements.
copper
torqued properly
optional oversize for future proofing (get 80 amps if feasible)

everything in metal conduit. avoid junction boxes (which should be easy. I imagine they'll just run a conduit from the breaker up the wall, across the ceiling, through the opposite wall into the garage, across the garage and back down, next to the existing welder socket, which is in the ideal location. I don't know how hard it is to pull/replace wires that are already inside walls (and no idea if they're in conduit), so I imagine what I just described is what's likely.

I expect a qmerit electrician to already know all this stuff (thats the point after all?), in case I forget (and I don't want to seem like i'm telling them their job). Have I forgotten anything? smoke detector or two along the route?

I have a 125amp breaker box. (I assume thats 125 on each of the positive and negative legs, so 250 amp total? it better be because there's more than 125 amps of breakers in there, and four blanks, and the house hasn't burned down yet, and it presumably passed code inspection when it was built).

If they don't canabilize the welder, I might see if they can verify the wiring on that and replace it with a true industrial 14-50 or 14-30 (if the existing wiring will only support 14-30 continuously).

I should probably get them to update the dryer socket as well, since its literally 1 foot under the breaker box.

Thinking of the emporia, then the chargepoint (and want something thats easy to convert to NACS later, which I'm pretty sure is the case for the chargepoint).

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So how do people know they're not going to burn down the RV park, or friend's house when they plug in there?

 

[dtbaker61]

The 10 series has two hots and a neutral. Most EVSEs need two hots and a ground. Many electrical boxes bond the neutral to ground, but you would need a qualified electrician to look at the circuit to ensure that the neutral can be used as a ground.

you'll need to check the wire size (6/3 w 8ground for standard 14-50 outlet) if you are super lucky you can have an electrician swap out the 40a breaker for 50a, and swap out the outlet to standard 14-50.

If you are not so lucky, youll have to pull new wire, and breaker, and outlet.

 

[xxiii]

So far, I have:
get direct wired.
thicker than normal gauge, THHN, make sure it meets "continuous usage" requirements.
copper
torqued properly
optional oversize for future proofing (get 80 amps if feasible)

everything in metal conduit.

Add: don't get skin oil (or anything else) on any of the conductive bits that need to join somewhere. (people love to touch stuff, and this intruduces a slight resistance, which turns into heat).

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