Need a breaker brand recommendation

[TRP]

I've been using the same 50amp outlet with the same no name 50amp breaker for a long time now. Lately the breaker is tripping when the car charges for an extended period of time say from 40%-90%...it will trip somewhere in there before I get to 90%. A 15-20% charge is typically fine. I believe the breaker is just wearing out since it's a cheap model.

What should I replace it with?

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[Mach-Lee]

The breaker brand should match the brand of your electrical panel. Post some pictures of the panel and label if you aren’t sure.

 

[Ghost Ryder]

Are you sure the connections are good and that the wires are not getting too hot? Perhaps there's something wrong with the line or plug, and the breaker is working as intended and preventing your house from burning down.

 

[TRP]

All good points. I'll check all of that before I do anything.

 

[AKgrampy]

And because you are asking at what current level are you charging? After an inspection of the equipment, and if all looks fine, I would just replace the 50 A breaker with the same brand (assuming 50A is the appropriate size.) I actually purchased an infrared thermometer so that I can monitor my electrical connections even though I had everything installed by an electrician.

 

[Mach-Lee]

Yeah that’s a good point, make sure the EVSE is set to 40A not 48A. 40A is the max on a 50A breaker.

 

[SirLamerok]

The wires on the breaker could be loose as well.

 

[DevSecOps]

To answer your question... Siemens and Square D are commonly referred to as the better brands. It doesn't have to match your panel or the other breakers in the panel as long as it's compatible. A breaker on a circuit works independent of everything else.

I would agree with others that you should look at ensuring everything is properly tightened, you're not clamping on insulation and your EVSE is programmed to the correct amperage for the circuit.

 

[Maquis]

To answer your question... Siemens and Square D are commonly referred to as the better brands. It doesn't have to match your panel or the other breakers in the panel as long as it's compatible. A breaker on a circuit works independent of everything else.

I would agree with others that you should look at ensuring everything is properly tightened, you're not clamping on insulation and your EVSE is programmed to the correct amperage for the circuit.

A breaker must be listed (UL) to fit the panel you put it in. Some manufacturers make breakers listed for other brand’s panels. They are commonly known as “classified” breakers and they usually cost double what a regular breaker does.

Almost every residential 1” form factor breakers will fit each other‘s panels, but there can be subtle differences the buss clip dimensions. It’s not recommended to mix and match haphazardly.

The OP should remove the breaker and check for discoloration of the buss and breaker tabs.

 

[DevSecOps]

A breaker must be listed (UL) to fit the panel you put it in. Some manufacturers make breakers listed for other brand’s panels. They are commonly known as “classified” breakers and they usually cost double what a regular breaker does.

True which is why I said it had to be compatible. I would assume that a specified breaker which says "only for use in homeline panels" would give someone the idea that it's only for use in homeline panels. Classified breakers are only like $3 more and the NEC code only addresses this in 110.3(B) which says that "Listed or labeled equipment shall be installed and used in accordance with any instructions included in the listing or labeling." I guess I didn't think I needed to explain that.

There are also many ATS' which are "listed" compatible with multiple breakers (i.e. Generac).

 

[Maquis]

True which is why I said it had to be compatible. I would assume that a specified breaker which says "only for use in homeline panels" would give someone the idea that it's only for use in homeline panels. Classified breakers are only like $3 more and the NEC code only addresses this in 110.3(B) which says that "Listed or labeled equipment shall be installed and used in accordance with any instructions included in the listing or labeling." I guess I didn't think I needed to explain that.

There are also many ATS' which are "listed" compatible with multiple breakers (i.e. Generac).

I think we’re in agreement. I was just getting into the specifics. Companies like Generac (most generator and pool panel makers) don’t make their own breakers and list on the label which are compatible. Those don’t need to be classified.

 

[ocdxfv]

Yeah that’s a good point, make sure the EVSE is set to 40A not 48A. 40A is the max on a 50A breaker.

This is pretty important! In 2013, I was charging me EV on a 30 amp circuit and had my EVSE set to 30 amps. It didn't take long to burn out the relays. When I contacted the EVSE manufacturer, they clued me in to the 80% rule. I replaced the relays, changed the EVSE to 24 amps, and have never had a problem since.

 

[stevec73]

This is pretty important! In 2013, I was charging me EV on a 30 amp circuit and had my EVSE set to 30 amps. It didn't take long to burn out the relays. When I contacted the EVSE manufacturer, they clued me in to the 80% rule. I replaced the relays, changed the EVSE to 24 amps, and have never had a problem since.

Ye be a lucky scallywag.

 

[Side Show Bob]

I've been using the same 50amp outlet with the same no name 50amp breaker for a long time now. Lately the breaker is tripping when the car charges for an extended period of time say from 40%-90%...it will trip somewhere in there before I get to 90%. A 15-20% charge is typically fine. I believe the breaker is just wearing out since it's a cheap model.

What should I replace it with?

You really need to see the amp draw when the car is charging. Like a Fieldpiece meter. Camp it on one of the wires coming after the 50 amp breaker. This will tell you a lot. The charger could be pulling to many amps. Buying a meter can be expensive. Does a friend have one? or maybe you can find a cheap one to buy.

 

[TRP]

Yeah that’s a good point, make sure the EVSE is set to 40A not 48A. 40A is the max on a 50A breaker.

It is

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