Anyone else experience a burnt/melted charging port?

JamieGeek

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Dirty/worn contacts causing arcing at perhaps thousands of degrees.

At public chargers it's not a bad idea to have a look at the business end before hooking up.
No arcing is necessary to cause the melting, just a very small contact area forcing all the current to go through that point.
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jbirdzee

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It would be cool if someone made a short J1772 Male to Female extension - or just a "connector saver" - something sacrificial that would allow you to use the public chargers, and if the connector on those is all butchered, it won't melt the connector on the car. It would just mess up the 1ft long extension and you go get another one. I guess for DCFC you've got the interlock to contend with, and I'm sure there has to be an idiot proofing problem in there to work through. It would be a lot less hassle than getting the charge port replaced. ?‍♂
 

Mach1E

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a poor connection between pin and socket probably started the arcing.... either incomplete connection, or a bent/worn pin or socket.

Since your end was new.... likely to be a worn plug on the public charger... and should be reported for maintenance.

1. visually check plug and socket for debris, water, or signs of previous arcing... especially at public chargers!

2. be sure to fully engage plug until you hear the click... especially if you are using an adaptor!

3. consider putting a TINY dab of (conductive) grease, vasaline or WD-40 in sockets occasionally to prevent wear and assure good contact, especially if charging outside. WD-40 is 'water-displacement formula 40', and not a lubricant... so grease is better.


- small amounts of conductive grease can be very helpful to prevent wear on connectors that are plugged/unplugged a lot, oxidation of raw copper, especially in humid and/or salt air. Vasiline works, or if you think you may use some regularly on plugs, connectors, circuit breakers.... you can buy official conductive electrical grease like this:
https://www.voltlighting.com/conductive-electrical-grease?

or, noalox which also helps prevent problems with copper/aluminum connections:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Ideal-Noalox-0-5-oz-Anti-Oxidant-Joint-Compound-30-024/202276207?
Sooo……

Wouldn’t it be a bad idea to start putting grease in your charge port if the owners manual doesn’t suggest it?

Not because it wouldn’t work. But because in the case of something happening like the OP, it could cause Ford to deny the warranty claim.
 

Carsinmyblood

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It would be cool if someone made a short J1772 Male to Female extension - or just a "connector saver" - something sacrificial that would allow you to use the public chargers, and if the connector on those is all butchered, it won't melt the connector on the car. It would just mess up the 1ft long extension and you go get another one. I guess for DCFC you've got the interlock to contend with, and I'm sure there has to be an idiot proofing problem in there to work through. It would be a lot less hassle than getting the charge port replaced. ?‍♂
I like it. Better yet would be to make the port, a high wear part, more readily exchangeable like a plug with a connector at the back. I'm not going though Muroe's vids, but I'm sure it's a long convoluted part. Sort-sighted on Ford's part.
 

Triggerhappy007

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hawkeye3point1

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The worst cases were the ones where the connector fused and the handle could not be removed.
Now that is a nightmare scenario.
Rolled up to a charger once in my Volt to find a Tesla adapter just about welded into the coupler. It put up a good fight, but eventually it separated. In retrospect, I probably should not have used that charger.
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