Front Sensor and Intake Shutter damage

[mobrien118]

On a dark rural road, a racoon jumped right in front of me as I rounded a turn... Heard an impact but thought it just went under tire. A day or so later, I noticed that the left cooling shutter/vent/whatever was completely gone.

I also was having weird issues with BlueCruise, like it would not see the car in front of me and try to drive right through me, while, meanwhile, slamming on the brakes for a car 1-2 lanes to the left of me traveling slower than I am.

A week or so later, started getting the error message that Pre-collision assist is not available - ran the codes and got a bunch related to invalid data, image processing, etc.

Cleared the codes, and only one is sticking - B124E(78) - "Forward Looking Sensor Horizontal Alignment Alignment or Adjustment Incorrect"

The sensors seem to be physically intact and aligned. Other than the broken flaps, you wouldn't know that anything happened and there is no visible damage.

I'm hoping this is something relatively simple and that i can fix it myself, but wanting to get some opinions before I take it apart. Among other projects, I've rebuilt much of a 2004 BMW M3 Covertible (interior, suspension, electronics and engine/drivetrain) so I'm not afraid to take on a small project granted I have the tools at my disposal to tackle it.

Hit me back with your thoughts!

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[Mach-Lee]

You'll probably need to buy a new lower grille and radar sensor bracket. The radar sensor is between the grilles (not the round parking sensors).

Good luck if you DIY that, it's fairly involved to get everything transferred over with all the clips they use.

 

[Meljfry]

On a dark rural road, a racoon jumped right in front of me as I rounded a turn... Heard an impact but thought it just went under tire. A day or so later, I noticed that the left cooling shutter/vent/whatever was completely gone.

I also was having weird issues with BlueCruise, like it would not see the car in front of me and try to drive right through me, while, meanwhile, slamming on the brakes for a car 1-2 lanes to the left of me traveling slower than I am.

A week or so later, started getting the error message that Pre-collision assist is not available - ran the codes and got a bunch related to invalid data, image processing, etc.

Cleared the codes, and only one is sticking - B124E(78) - "Forward Looking Sensor Horizontal Alignment Alignment or Adjustment Incorrect"

The sensors seem to be physically intact and aligned. Other than the broken flaps, you wouldn't know that anything happened and there is no visible damage.

I'm hoping this is something relatively simple and that i can fix it myself, but wanting to get some opinions before I take it apart. Among other projects, I've rebuilt much of a 2004 BMW M3 Covertible (interior, suspension, electronics and engine/drivetrain) so I'm not afraid to take on a small project granted I have the tools at my disposal to tackle it.

Hit me back with your thoughts!

I hit a random traffic cone in the middle of the highway. It messed my sensors up, along with the broken baffles. I took it in, paid my $400 deductible, and had it all fixed properly. It was over $3000 to take care of it all. There is some kind of a camera back inside that got broken on mine. I'd suggest taking it to a professional.

 

[ChasingCoral]

On a dark rural road, a racoon jumped right in front of me as I rounded a turn... Heard an impact but thought it just went under tire. A day or so later, I noticed that the left cooling shutter/vent/whatever was completely gone.

I also was having weird issues with BlueCruise, like it would not see the car in front of me and try to drive right through me, while, meanwhile, slamming on the brakes for a car 1-2 lanes to the left of me traveling slower than I am.

A week or so later, started getting the error message that Pre-collision assist is not available - ran the codes and got a bunch related to invalid data, image processing, etc.

Cleared the codes, and only one is sticking - B124E(78) - "Forward Looking Sensor Horizontal Alignment Alignment or Adjustment Incorrect"

The sensors seem to be physically intact and aligned. Other than the broken flaps, you wouldn't know that anything happened and there is no visible damage.

I'm hoping this is something relatively simple and that i can fix it myself, but wanting to get some opinions before I take it apart. Among other projects, I've rebuilt much of a 2004 BMW M3 Covertible (interior, suspension, electronics and engine/drivetrain) so I'm not afraid to take on a small project granted I have the tools at my disposal to tackle it.

Hit me back with your thoughts!

That’s what insurance is for.

 

[HuntingPudel]

The front sensor that is likely out of alignment is behind the middle panel between the air intakes. Getting into that area to replace the bracket is ”fun.” ??

 

[mobrien118]

I hit a random traffic cone in the middle of the highway. It messed my sensors up, along with the broken baffles. I took it in, paid my $400 deductible, and had it all fixed properly. It was over $3000 to take care of it all. There is some kind of a camera back inside that got broken on mine. I'd suggest taking it to a professional.

I can confidently say that I've had "professionals" make more problems than they have solved on my cars - especially at the "D word." My deductible is $1k (because I nearly always fix my problems myself) and I have time to do so. The only reason I would bring it in is if there is a special tool that is needed (e.g. computer software that I can't get) that makes it completely unreasonable ($) to do myself.

That’s what insurance is for.

With a $1k deductible, I'll take my chances.

The front sensor that is likely out of alignment is behind the middle panel between the air intakes. Getting into that area to replace the bracket is ”fun.” ??

Good thing one of the shutters is already taken out

I'll see if I can find some parts diagrams and assess the job before I fully commit to it.

Knowing, now, that the sensor is in the middle is extremely helpful and now I know where to focus. I'll post back updates whether I proceed, and how it goes, or if I throw in the towel and "take it to the pros." If I didn't take in my 2004 M3 when the convertible top needed to be rebuilt, or the differential, or the shifter replaced, or the flex disc, thermostat, variable timing solenoids, leaking oil components, complete exhaust replaced, lifters adjusted, headlights, spark plugs, control arms, tie rods, springs (more that I can't think of at the moment) then I'm not inclined to go down so easily on this one - just need to have a plan before I begin.

 

[mobrien118]

Phase one is complete, thanks to your input and the help of this diagram: https://parts.nplincoln.com/a/Ford_...-grille-Electrical-components/MT21045.html#13

The distance sensor clips into the back of the bracket (toward the back of the car, although the clip attaches forward). There is a gap between the bracket and the front trim that it attaches to, enough for my fingers to fit through easily and grab the sensor. It was loose, sitting down below it, but the bracket was still intact and in position so I was able to lift it up and press it back in. It clipped in securely and I wasn't able to pull it back out with moderate pressure, so it must have just jarred loose without breaking the clip [crosses fingers].

Before:

After:

Upon starting the car, the error was no longer present on the dash. Running the codes against the CCM module already, now, shows that the error is now archived and inactive (but still recorded historically).

Now I just need to fix the baffle/shutter/whatever, since it is winter.

 

[mobrien118]

OK - I'm on to phase 2. I was foolish to not try to capture that little "shutter" arm you can see in my first photo as it has now disappeared. It's probably on a highway median somewhere in the Midwest. There are 3D print files for the shutters themselves, but I can't find any for the arm itself.

I don't want to have to buy the whole front assembly - @AOSK - do you happen to have that file, as well? Or anyone else?

For clarity - this little guy here:

 

[mobrien118]

OK - I'm on to phase 2. I was foolish to not try to capture that little "shutter" arm you can see in my first photo as it has now disappeared. It's probably on a highway median somewhere in the Midwest. There are 3D print files for the shutters themselves, but I can't find any for the arm itself.

I don't want to have to buy the whole front assembly - @AOSK - do you happen to have that file, as well? Or anyone else?

For clarity - this little guy here:

I'm still looking for a 3d print template for this piece. I just got a 3d printer, and I'm ready to print the shutters, but they won't be much use without this piece. I might have to fabricate something myself, but I really don't want to try to to that...

Next step after *that* will be fixing the crack in the panel under the front lip... gradual progress.......

 

[mobrien118]

Whelp... Nobody had the 3d scan of this, and I really needed to get it back working...... so I bought a $15 micrometer off of Amazon and measured the one from the other side, then designed one that is sufficient. Since it isn't a visible part, even, really, when the shutters are open, there wasn't much need to make it "pretty."

I'm attaching the slt file here - feel free to use and/or modify to your hearts content. And I'll post some pictures of it next to its mirror (the one that wasn't broken). I printed it at 100% infill, since it isn't much filament anyway (I think 22g, with supports) and I would prefer this part to be fully strong.

These are all 3d printed blades, too:

And on the car:

 

[SteveMach-ee]

Really nice job on the shutter arm! Thanks for posting the stl. What filament did you use? What design software?

 

[mobrien118]

Really nice job on the shutter arm! Thanks for posting the stl. What filament did you use? What design software?

No problem, hope it helps others!

I had trouble getting ABS to produce quality parts in my printer (Bambu P1S), so this is just PLA. If (more like when) the shutters get weathered I'll get some black ASA and make the permanent version from that. I'm new to 3D printing so I've already learned things I would have done differently in the print.

I used TinkerCAD for the design. It is my first time using 3D design software, but it wasn't too difficult to get the hang of. I spent maybe an hour or two learning the software and designing the part altogether. I've already designed something else for a different project so I'm getting some mileage out of my self training!

 

[SteveMach-ee]

Yes, PLA might deform in summer heat and tend to be brittle in the winter. ABS usually looks better and survives temp extremes well but it's a PITA to get it not to warp. ABS warping is worse with 100% infill. PETG is pretty good at temp extremes, much stronger than PLA and is cheaper than ASA. I've never tried ASA. It sounds pretty sturdy.

TinkerCAD is really good and simple to use. I've been using Fusion360 for years for 3D printing and CNC designs. It is free for hobbyists but has a steep learning curve. I had to watch a lot of YouTube videos .

 

[mobrien118]

Yes, PLA might deform in summer heat and tend to be brittle in the winter. ABS usually looks better and survives temp extremes well but it's a PITA to get it not to warp. ABS warping is worse with 100% infill. PETG is pretty good at temp extremes, much stronger than PLA and is cheaper than ASA. I've never tried ASA. It sounds pretty sturdy.

TinkerCAD is really good and simple to use. I've been using Fusion360 for years for 3D printing and CNC designs. It is free for hobbyists but has a steep learning curve. I had to watch a lot of YouTube videos .

One of my PLA shutters already broke near the arm mount, so I bought some ASA (Polymaker Black, maybe should have chosen "Jet Black"...?) and re-printed it, but I didn't stop there! I redesigned the shutters to be better optimized for a 3D printer (as opposed to injection molding, like the factory parts) and posted the models, along with the rotating arms, out on Maker World. You can find them here, if you're interested: https://makerworld.com/en/models/2384553-mustang-mach-e-shutter-grill-all-6-rotating-arms

It may not be the most elegant solution, but I just built up rectangles and triangles on the backs of the shutters to remove the need for supports on the back of the shutter when printing, as well as (probably) make them stronger as a 3D print with 15% infill...? I printed the top one in ASA (on P1S with enclosure pre-heated) with no issues and went ahead and designed the other ones (lefts are just mirrors of rights) and included the arm(s) (again, just a mirror) in the model. I'm sure ABS and PETG will also work well, but I think ASA is probably ideal and it turned out great - check it out in the images in the posted model.

In a future model, I might add some structure to the arm portion of these where my one shutter broke, but we'll see how these ones hold up first. All in, I've probably spent as much in time, filament and other resources that I could have just bought the Ford assembly off of eBay, but where's the fun in that?

 

[bvia]

First time poster here, I think I'm re-asking some questions that have been stated in various other posts so please bear with me...

I too have suffered damage to the shutter assembly. However, the louvers in the front are not damaged, just the shutter arm behind them is broken (I tried to attach a photo). Took it to the dealer, they said this is clearly from an impact and therefor not covered under warranty. I think that's debatable, I'm not sure how an impact broke the linkage without damaging the louvers themselves, but i'm on the losing side of that argument. So, with that said...

1. How do I get the 3 louvers off in order to replace the linkage arm? I've tried bending them to take them out but it seems like they'll snap before they pop loose. any suggestions?

2. What material should I use to print the linkage arm? I have a buddy with a printer, just not sure what filament to use

3. does anyone know if they linkage arm dimensions are the same on GT models and others? Mine is a 2025 Premium, I believe you modeled the replacement after a 2022 GT

4. is there any particular order to install all of this? i assume the linkage arm needs to go in first, attaching to the actuator/motor? and then re-bend each of the 3 louvers to connect to the linkage arm?

Have you had any issues with your linkage arm since you originally installed?

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