Mustang Mach-E 12V Software Recall FAQ

[Tomm]

Because 10 is too short, 15 is too long, and 12.5 is a fraction

and 13 is an odd number

Sponsored

 

[Fixbear]

Unless you have a 2025, the update is not officially available yet.

Some people have reported their dealer did the update on older cars anyways when they weren’t supposed to, but it’s unclear if that still counts or if they will have to do it again later when the official update for older vehicles is made available.

And they are wrong. FDRS provides updates by serial number. Unless it is over rode by a Ford service engineer.

 

[BigSchaff]

Is this recall something that I need to pay for? I just went to my dealership specifically because I had the 12 V battery recall and they want to charge me $250 for the battery and labor and $199 for diagnostics. Is that reasonable? I have a 2021 Mach E premium ext

Same thing for me today. Quoted as not covered under the extended warranty or PowerDrive train warranty.

 

[HuntingPudel]

I sincerely wish Ford would consider a manual key latch release on the tailgate. When this happened to me the 12v latch release on the frunk also failed. All available updates were installed at the time.​

I would prefer the mechanical release to be on the left front door since the frunk release is obfuscated by that door being closed. Also, even with my size climbing through the interior is a pain in the tail. ?‍?

EDIT: I should note that I got the recall notice in the mail yesterday. In big red letters it clearly states that the resolution to the recall is not yet available for 2021-2024 models and that it is forthcoming. Anyone whose dealer tells them different needs to politely tell their dealer this. ?‍?

 

[methorian]

Same thing for me today. Quoted as not covered under the extended warranty or PowerDrive train warranty.

The software update isn't out for '21-'24 model years, so there's no point is attempting a repair now.

That being said - recall repairs are free, no matter your warranty situation.

 

[RaineN]

Same thing for me today. Quoted as not covered under the extended warranty or PowerDrive train warranty.

I left Mac Haik Ford (my dealership) and went to another dealership after confirming they would not charge me for diagnostics. My 12 V battery replacement was $240.

 

[Trielectric]

I had my 2025 Rally updated this morning in my garage, by the mobile unit. There was a problem with the speed of the download, saying it would probably take 24 hrs to download the software. I offered to let him sign on my house modem and he thought he would get in trouble doing that. His computer was in the front seat of my car. Putting the computer on the roof of the car improved the speed. Then I took some short bungie cords and hooked them to the front hood to pull it partially down, and the speed of the download increased again.(the front hood is open to allow the Ford van to hook it's 12v jumpers to the Rally's battery.) After the download I noticed that the battery stays at 14.2 volts now when you shut the car off. It used to drop off to~12.4 volts as soon as you cut the car off.

 

[Ford Motor Company]

UPDATED WITH HOW-TO VIDEOS:

Jumping back in here to share that I have updated the original post with two "how to" videos if you have a 12V failure. One is how to exit the vehicle, the other is how to jumpstart the vehicle. More info can also be found here.

 

[kindofblue]

Jumping back in here to share that I have updated the original post with two "how to" videos if you have a 12V failure. One is how to exit the vehicle, the other is how to jumpstart the vehicle. More info can also be found here.

Thanks. Most helpful.

 

[Mach-Lee]

Jumping back in here to share that I have updated the original post with two "how to" videos if you have a 12V failure. One is how to exit the vehicle, the other is how to jumpstart the vehicle. More info can also be found here.

Glad you made those. I was thinking about doing something similar, but better that you have an official one.

 

[nhlapc2]

Edited above but posting below, too. If you had your 12V battery replaced after being alerted by FordPass, the warning may stick around for a couple weeks while the model "relearns" the new battery. The team is already working on refinements to have it relearn faster.

I got locked out, again. I replaced my battery about a year ago. It was since then that I've been locked out three times. No warning suggesting that the battery is failing. Can't get in with a fob, can't get in with the app. Can't get in with the door code. Ridiculous.

 

[nhlapc2]

I got locked out, again. I replaced my battery about a year ago. It was since then that I've been locked out three times. No warning suggesting that the battery is failing. Can't get in with a fob, can't get in with the app. Can't get in with the door code. Ridiculous.

Ha, you gotta love this. Same thing happened last time I was locked out a few months ago. Sat for over 25 minutes waiting for roadside assistance to come and then miraculously the door opens with the door code. Another service call canceled and anxiously awaiting the next lockout! Well done Ford!

 

[nhlapc2]

Jumping back in here to share that I have updated the original post with two "how to" videos if you have a 12V failure. One is how to exit the vehicle, the other is how to jumpstart the vehicle. More info can also be found here.

Tho I don't understand....I didn't need a jump (or to exit my vehicle). There was most obviously enough energy for my doors to open 25 minutes after the lockout with no other intervention or action on my part other than 200 attempts to unlock with my door code and app. What am missing with all of these "helpful" suggestions?

 

[nhlapc2]

Ha, you gotta love this. Same thing happened last time I was locked out a few months ago. Sat for over 25 minutes waiting for roadside assistance to come and then miraculously the door opens with the door code. Another service call canceled and anxiously awaiting the next lockout! Well done Ford!

Perhaps I'm missing it or misinterpreting though am I seeing that the suggested fix for the lockouts is to replace an old 12 volt battery? Again, I replaced mine about a year ago and have had three lockouts since and no indication on the dash that there's an issue with the battery. What's more, how is it that after 25 minutes of lockout I can get back in and things work somewhat properly for the next few months if the battery had failed? Would love someone's input especially@fordmotorcompany.

And to the extent it might be relevant, since the day this vehicle came off the train in 2021, my fob success rate of locking or unlocking the doors is only about 75% and only then when I'm standing next to the vehicle. My fob has never worked more than a couple of feet away from the vehicle. Phone As a Key is of no help either. I often have walked up to the vehicle and while the lights may come on, the doors won't open unless I push the door button an average between 5 and 10 times. The interplay between the fob, Phone As a Key and door codes has always been a mess with this vehicle. I've reported it several times and despite the dozens of software upgrades, it has not been resolved (please don't tell me, again, to change the battery in my fob).

Perhaps there's a connection between all of these entry and exit issues for this vehicle?

Any insights greatly appreciated as it's about time to get rid of this thing.

 

[E90alex]

It seems like your car doesn’t have 12V issue but maybe has a faulty computer that controls locking/access (not sure what Ford calls it or if it’s just part of the BCM).

So it’s either not properly seeing/authorizing your key (whether fob or phone or code) or it not able to send the unlock signal to the doors and therefore you are “locked out” just like if some random person tried to open your car. Then after a while the computer reboots and it works normally for a while.

When you say the door code didn’t work, did the number pad still light up?

Sponsored