[Project Finished Update] Speakers/DSPs/AMPs for '23 Mach-E with B&O

[MrLoganRoss]

Hi.

I am looking for recommendations for high quality aftermarket speakers (doors and dash) for my '23 Mach-E with B&O. Assume I will be adding a new amp for the doors (but not for the three dash speakers since they run off the ACM - which shouldn't matter because they are only tweeters). I am looking for options that are drop-in, with no or minimal modification to the doors. I will reuse the existing speaker wire to the doors. Thanks in advance!

Also, thoughts on a higher end (but not highest-end) DSP/Amp would be appreciated. A must-have-feature would be an easy way to connect to the DSP/Amp for modifying settings (bluetooth, etc.). Preferably, I would like something that lets you use a mic to auto-tune all the speakers working together (like you do with room correction for a home theater receiver).

I would also like class D amps to reduce heat and power requirements. With no Subs needing to be powered, my Amp requirements should be reasonably low. Each of the two Clark transducers requires only 16 gauge wire and 125 watts of power.

As a quick note, currently the plan is to replace the B&O amp with (1) a MoBridge combined A2B interface/DSP/Amp, or (2) a PAC Audio A2B interface together with a DSP/AMP. Are there any other recommended A2B interfaces?

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[HuntingPudel]

See this thread by @Bba for some juicy stuff about replacing the audio system. ??

 

[MrLoganRoss]

See this thread by @Bba for some juicy stuff about replacing the audio system. ??

Appreciated. That however, as incredibly amazing as it is, is way above my ability and objective

 

[MrLoganRoss]

Still hoping for recommendations. Thanks in advance.

 

[MrLoganRoss]

It should be another day or so for the project to be completed. I am having it professionally done as I have neither the tools nor the skill. Here are a few pics of the driver door.

 

[MachA]

I'd love an update with your experience, parts used and total cost.

 

[MrLoganRoss]

Hi.
-MoBridge standard A2B Ford
-Helix DSP v8 Mrk2(w8channel amp) +. Conductor remote control
-BLAM signature Signature speakers for dash and front door
-BLAM 4channel amp plus one Clark transducer under each front seat (still evaluating success)
-may add a sub in the trunk

right now they are working on tuning.

 

[MrLoganRoss]

Update: I am extremely happy with the install and new system. The install was spotless, with nothing visible. Both the Mobridge and the Helix DSP Hub fit where the B&O amp was.

The team at Benchmark Motoring did an awesome job tuning all of the drivers and creating a baseline configuration. I just spent the last three hours with the Helix SW refining the configuration to get the sound and soundstage I want.

The Clark Synthesis Gold Full Frequency-Range Transducer Speakers are a resounding success! They are mounted to the bottom of the front seats. I have them trail off at 1000hz. This lets them supplement most instruments. However there is a little more work to do as the are currently mounted via a hard plastic cover under the seats. I have to get creative in order to find a way to mount them to a more rigid structure. Safety is of utmost importance, so I will proceed cautiously.

I would provide pics, but there is literally nothing to take pictures of !!! The car looks 100% stock. That said they did a beautiful job designing a frame for the Helix Conductor dial to fit at the Bottom of the center sync screen just below the volume dial. I will take a picture of that and share tomorrow.

 

[MrLoganRoss]

I am still immensely enjoying the new audio system. The amazing thing about having a DSP, is the ability to take your time tuning/evolving the system. After three weeks, I am almost done. The big surprise? Tuning for the car parked isn’t the same as tuning it for driving.

I am happy with the “parked” sound. Now I have been driving around to see what needs to be tweaked. The biggest challenge is mid/upper bass. The biggest challenge for my setup is that road vibration does take away a bit of nuance of my full-range speaker transducers that are mounted to the bottom of each seat. So far the solution to compensate for the “noise of driving” has been to increase the relative volume of the 4 door woofers, increase the relative power of the transducers, also add a low shelf filter to dash and door speakers to boost bass/mid-bass.

Finally, I mentioned there is nothing to share pictures of, as the vehicle looks completely stock. In a way, it’s almost a bummer not to see the artwork . That said, the one change to the interior is the addition of the Helix Conductor (for controlling things like sound set-up presets, subwoofer volume, and transducer volume). For the moment, I just have a few presets. For example, one preset for driver-centric sound using the center channel. One preset for driver-centric sound with out the center speaker. One for sound tuned for both driver and passenger. Here are two photos. It is mounted right underneath the center touchscreen, in a custom-made bracket.

 

[MrLoganRoss]

The MoBridge A2B adapter is doing its job. It is connected to the DSP via Toslink. No changes vis FORScan are needed. It is nice to be able to adjust the gain for stereo, phone, beeps, voice separately). I am thinking about simultaneously running rca cables for the rear strictly for beeps (parking sensors) in order to restore rear-speaker-only beeps.

 

[MyLittlePony2022]

@MrLoganRoss Great post and thanks for sharing your build with the forum. It looks like you went all out on the build. I would love to know more about the Clark transducers. How did you mount them and what is it like to have them under your seat?

Looked into the MoBridge digital to analog converter (DAC) for aftermarket amps. I have never heard of them until your post. This is a great option to the PAC Audio DAC. They have a version that has a DSP built into the DAC, if you want one and your amp does not have a DSP. Their DAC has 10 channels for output versus the three that the PAC DAC offers. This would allow you to send signal to a 10 channel amp. They offer an amp too with the DAC and DSP built into it and it is an 8.1 channel amp. A a bit expensive compared to other amps but less expensive then going the DAC and amp route.

 

[MrLoganRoss]

The Clark’s are full range 20hz to 17hz. I filter them out above 800hz.
These do not use sound waves through the air but vibration through the seat, so other than high/low pass filter and volume, you don’t tune them (no mics or frequency tuning for example).

they are shaped like a flying saucer and only require one screw. The shop attached them to the ultra hard plastic plate under each front seat.

I have the helix conductor which lets me change DSP settings on the fly. I assigned one setting to adjust volume of the transducers, and other to adjust volume of the factory sub (which doesn’t much), and another to scroll through my DSP presets (ie, driver centric, car full of people, use center speaker, etc.)

Each transducer receives the signal for both left and right channels.

I boost the curve for the transducers to about +7db from 60 to 500hz

https://clarksynthesis.com/
https://clarksynthesis.com/tst329-gold-transducer/

 

[MyLittlePony2022]

@MrLoganRoss I also forgot to ask if you could talk more about your install.

How did you power the center speaker with the 8 channel Helix amp. I don't use mine and when I get my system configured, I am going to disconnect the speaker.

Did you run new speaker wire? What gauge and was it hard for the installer to get it into the doors?
Did you pick up the signal from the head end unit that normally feeds the front tweeter and center channel or did you just take digital signal from the front mids to power the all the front speakers? I was planning on doing the latter and not running that signal back to the amp. Do not need to if you have an amp with a DSP.

Did you add the sub in the trunk. Following in the footsteps of others, I did that the first week I had the car. Wow, that made a huge difference in the sound. One of my wires got loose and it was not working, and I could instantly hear the difference. A big hole in the sound.

 

[MrLoganRoss]

The rear factory speakers (2); front doors (2); dash (3); sub (1); transducers (2). Transducers powered by a second amp.

I don’t know on the speaker wire - I didn’t ask

Optical from MoBridge DSP and from DSP to all speakers including the front 3

I will be adding a sub to the trunk in the “wheel well”. Shop will build a custom enclosure and it will have its own amp.

 

[MrLoganRoss]

Adding photo of the Clark installed under the seat.

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