Restraints Indicator Lamp Warning

[Two Trick Ponies]

I recently installed a subwoofer under the cargo deck of the car, which makes an amazing difference in the sound system BTW. I ran all of the wiring up the passenger side of the car by removing all the trim panels on that side of the car. The one in the cargo area is particularly difficult to get out. Many people did not remove the panel completely to run their wiring, but I didn't feel like it was that big of a deal. To get it out, I thought I could just remove the single right-side seat back. I was able to get the right side of it out of the bracket and just swivel it out of the way. During this process I unplugged the wiring harness that goes up into the back of the seat at its connector under the seat. Although the project is complete, and that harness is connected again, I now have a "restraints indicator lamp warning" light on the instrument cluster and in my Ford PassApp. In my PassApp it states that "The restraints module has detected a fault with the second row passenger side airbag circuit". I'm sure this is because I unplugged and reconnected the harness to that seat. It's the orange icon in the picture below.

Any ideas or knowledge of how to reset the light or circuit? I've tried disconnecting the negative battery cable for more than a minute and reconnecting it, which did not change anything or turn the light out. Condition is unchanged. Is this something you have to use an OBD scanner for (which I don't have)? DO I really need to take it to the dealer?

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[New2EV]

Sounds to me like there's another harness disconnected somewhere. I believe the fault should clear once everything is reconnected properly.

 

[Two Trick Ponies]

Nope, the warning is specifically for the seat that I unplugged. It is still present today.

 

[Mach-Lee]

Nope, the warning is specifically for the seat that I unplugged. It is still present today.

I can look if you send me your VIN, but it’s probably worth retracing your steps and verifying everything is fully plugged in correctly. Airbag connectors can be a little difficult because they have shorting bars installed that close when disconnected. You have to sometimes make sure those are fully out of the way to get a complete connection.

 

[Two Trick Ponies]

Thank you, Lee! Now Ford is pinging me about the issue via email. I left the car at work today because I have a work function in our company vehicle (not because of the issue) tomorrow morning. I was thinking today that I should unplug and reconnect that connector one more time to be assured that it was completely plugged in. I will try that tomorrow evening and let you know. I really appreciate your time!

 

[Two Trick Ponies]

I have disconnected and reconnected the plug right under the second-row passenger side seat. I left it disconnected for 45 seconds. The harness runs out the back of the seat area and up into the seat back. The condition still remains unchanged. The light comes on with all the rest of the initial warning lamps as the vehicle powers up, then goes out for about 15-20 seconds, then comes back on. VIN attached.

 

[BMT1071]

Bent or backed out terminal? Crushed the harness when reinstalling the seat?

 

[Mach-Lee]

I have disconnected and reconnected the plug right under the second-row passenger side seat. I left it disconnected for 45 seconds. The harness runs out the back of the seat area and up into the seat back. The condition still remains unchanged. The light comes on with all the rest of the initial warning lamps as the vehicle powers up, then goes out for about 15-20 seconds, then comes back on. VIN attached.

B140B:13 - Second Row Passenger Side Airbag Deployment Control: Circuit Open

This fault cannot be cleared until it is corrected and the DTC is no longer retrieved on-demand during self-test.

The code status is not current, so it looks like you fixed it, but the code will remain until the RCM self-test is run and reset. So this will require a scan tool to fix most likely.

In the future , remember that you should not touch airbag system connections or components without disconnecting the 12V battery first.

 

[Two Trick Ponies]

UPDATE: So, I ended up taking it to the dealer to get the codes cleared, not being able to find anyone else who could read and clear codes in an electric vehicle. The tech at the dealer said (after a trouble shooting session) that the circuit I tapped into (F3 in the BCM fuse panel, front seat floor area) was a sensitive circuit and was affecting the restraints control module (RCM). The codes could not be cleared out with that circuit tapped into. I used a tap a fuse product. They unplugged the tap a fuse and the codes cleared. I had to find a different accessory power supply for the subwoofer tickler wire. I ended up soldering a blade connector on to an inline fuse (I used a 7.5 amp) and plugging that into the hot side of the CB1 circuit on the fuse panel which was not used. Other accessory circuit options would not fire up the subwoofer for some reason. This seems to have solved the problem, codes cleared, light is out, and sub works great! I have included the fuse box diagrams and legends for others that might be trying to figure out where to tap into power for the subwoofer tickler circuit. Of course, I ran the main power for the sub all the way up to the low voltage battery (LVB) the way Mark Boris suggested, except I went up the passenger side of the car, because that is what side the original subwoofer, fuse box and the firewall boot are on. I also installed the sub control in the center console as Mark did and that also is a really good spot for that. My choice for the subwoofer was a Kicker Hideaway HS10 which fit nicely in the Styrofoam insert under the rear deck. The rear deck can be used in either position with this sub choice, and it kicks pretty hard if you want it to. What a difference in the sound quality!

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