Trying to Develop a SR vs ER payback calculator

[Nklem]

I have created the attached spreadsheet to calculate the "expected" costs to evaluate SR vs ER RWD and AWD Mach E payback for the $5K upcharge. I provided a West Coast vs East Coast comparison as the DCFC costs are different. I am from Maine, so I used my sales tax and my DCFC rate. This sheet assumes DCFC charging the additional range needed per year/per full range trip to equal the ER against the SR and is based on the number of additional charges to do that. (so if you can only drive 211 miles with an SR AWD, you would need to fast charge for the additional 59 miles, 19 kW, for 27 minutes) , this evaluates that time and energy cost. I also added an adjustable time component, for the value of your time, while sitting at a 50 kWh DCFC, if you value that.

It's a work in progress but willing to share the excel if anyone wants it or wants to modify it with their numbers. It is an excel file, which I believe cannot be posted, so message me if you want it via email.

Thanks,

Norm

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[phil]

I just assume no option ever pays for itself, and I buy what I want.

But spreadsheets are fun!

 

[balataspin]

Based on the Premium ER AWD vs Select AWD demand in the Northeast, resale needs to be factored in for the big battery.

 

[All Hat No Cattle]

I just assume no option ever pays for itself, and I buy what I want.

But spreadsheets are fun!

I agree. Until someone can do a spreadsheet on the payback of a panoramic roof, massaging seats, or fancy wheels etc., I'm with you.

 

[Nklem]

Based on the Premium ER AWD vs Select AWD demand in the Northeast, resale needs to be factored in for the big battery.

I did a KBB comparison for a 2018 Tesla 3 RWD, White, same options, 50,000 miles. Mid Range Vs long Range. The Standard has a Trade in value of $32,395, a Long has a trade in Value of $34,974 So the LR battery option adds a Value of $2579 after 3 years. With Tesla it was a $3K add to go from SR to LR for MSRP in 2018.

 

[ChrisSJR]

I have created the attached spreadsheet to calculate the "expected" costs to evaluate SR vs ER RWD and AWD Mach E payback for the $5K upcharge. I provided a West Coast vs East Coast comparison as the DCFC costs are different. I am from Maine, so I used my sales tax and my DCFC rate. This sheet assumes DCFC charging the additional range needed per year/per full range trip to equal the ER against the SR and is based on the number of additional charges to do that. (so if you can only drive 211 miles with an SR AWD, you would need to fast charge for the additional 59 miles, 19 kW, for 27 minutes) , this evaluates that time and energy cost. I also added an adjustable time component, for the value of your time, while sitting at a 50 kWh DCFC, if you value that.

It's a work in progress but willing to share the excel if anyone wants it or wants to modify it with their numbers. It is an excel file, which I believe cannot be posted, so message me if you want it via email.

Thanks,

Norm

I’m an engineer as well, and I appreciate the sensible reason to do cost analysis/comparison. However, when it comes to something as personal as a car, most often ”wants” far outweighs cost as long as you convince yourself you can afford it.

 

[Nklem]

I’m an engineer as well, and I appreciate the sensible reason to do cost analysis/comparison. However, when it comes to something as personal as a car, most often ”wants” far outweighs cost as long as you convince yourself you can afford it.

I agree 100%. It's your own personal decision, just like the Glass Roof option.

I do see a lot of "never owned an EV before" folks asking whether they should buy an SR vs ER Mach E (here and on FB) and 80% of the time the respondents say "buy the big battery", "no exceptions", "you will regret it", "it's overall cheaper", "your resale will be much higher".

That may not truly be the best case for someone with limited funds. drives 25 miles per day, travels etc. Like me......

Folks should have some type of resource to evaluate what the battery size decision means, financially and time wise.

It's neat to see what this calculates out at. If you use Level 2 charging and "pay as you go " rates and give yourself anything more than $10/hour, it actually starts to makes sense. If you do not value your time (enjoy down time) and/or charge at home, it does not. If you drive a lot of miles or value your time (and are real expensive, like an Engineer.... LOL) it can certainly can make sense, especially if for commercial use.

It's an interesting sheet to play with and does allow you to kind of see what this decision can mean or say, maybe it's not worth it.

 

[timbop]

I'm a big numbers guy and create spreadsheets for everything, and did the same to compute what my winter range would be and a bunch of scenarios on which model to get along with different financing and other options. However, any attempt to quantify "peace of mind" or "convenience" is by definition purely subjective. After a huge spreadsheet to show me numbers, I used my gut to tell me what was going to be the most comfortable in my situation.

Based on a pact with the Mrs I had to keep the list price under $50k with the X-plan discount, which meant I could have gotten the SR Select with AWD or the ER Route 1 with RWD. I have a 100 mile daily commute (when I am actually going to work) and the spreadsheet I created in early 2020 to map out how much range the SR AWD would have in the winter made me nervous. Based on the best data I had at the time (I had to estimate cold weather battery efficiency, actual highway range, battery buffer size, etc) I would have to charge the SR AWD too high and drain it too low on a daily basis in winter for my comfort level. I knew that would start to degrade the battery, making the problem even worse - especially since there weren't any DCFC conveniently located for my commute.

Knowing what I know now I could have gone with the SR RWD and been fine in the winter, but I am still happy with my choice of the Route 1. Being able to drive in a 2 hour radius out and back from my house is really convenient. I can make it to Baltimore, NYC, and even lancaster to see relatives without a charging stop.

 

[HuntingPudel]

I just assume no option ever pays for itself, and I buy what I want.

But spreadsheets are fun!

I am assuming that the Performance Edition option will pay for itself in fun. I am also sure that from an operating standpoint it will cost more (see fun above). Since the GT only comes with the ER battery, there is no option there for me.

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