Loss of power steering (and other errors), and the solution found.

[gfacer]

So, just a quick write up on this issue that I have seen a few times here.

Background: 2021 model bought off a dealer group that had 90% plus of the used mach-e listings local to me in Vancouver canada. They were priced well but apparently had come from back east where salt is much.more common on the roads.

I figured / hoped that 4-5 years was low enough use in those conditions that nothing too bad will have happened.

After about 3 weeks of ownership (extended warranty declined too), the power steering goes off one morning. Not driving, it just isn't working when I start the car.

Because it didn't go while driving I suspected a electrical issue. Taking off some panels and looking in the engine bay showed some ground connections and some other electrical connections that were quite corroded.

So I started with the ground connections beside the battery (frunk is out at this point). Removed, cleaned, and used dilectric grease to protect and reinstalled. One screw was too rusty and I had to drill a replacement hole..didn't help but probably a good idea anyway.

I also cleaned around one of the 70a fuses under the fuse box as it looked nasty. It was the leftmost wire in the photo (not my car).

By this point I had scheduled a dealer visit. The car was drivable and weather wasn't great so I didn't revisit.

The dealer visit didn't happen, no EV techs in that day. Then I ended up with a second round of trouble shooting.

I hadn't actually checked fuses, so I did. Nothing. But I had my tester out, and tested the big fuses underneath the box....and the nasty one has no continuity.

So I got an inline fuse (60A) and wired that line direct to the battery, and confirmed that it was the problem. Zero warning after! No need even to clear codes or anything.

Unfortunately, the fuse is welded onto a power bus so I either have to replace the box itself or drill and tap the bus to screw mount a 70A "midi" fuse.

I think the full part is $100-150 and replacing just the fuse is maybe $40. The temporary inline fuse was about $40 too.

I hope this is helpful!

And man, do regular mechanics not want to deal with EVs! None of this troubleshooting was beyond their ability but my local guy didn't even try.

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[SteveMach-ee]

Thanks for the write-up. What's the mileage? It looks like it was driven hard through some deep salt slurry to reach that high into the frunk. My 2021 is clean in that area, and although I'm in New England, I only have 36K miles on it.

You might want to pull the mudguards and flush the sensors and suspension. Residual salt attracts moisture and the corrosion might continue.

 

[gfacer]

I was at 85k km, so 52k Miles.

And yes, lots of build up behind / to the right of the fuse box and battery.

Good tips on where to clean. I'm putting on lifting springs and a hitch receiver so I'll ask if they can look and rinse at the same time.

 

[SteveMach-ee]

I was at 85k km, so 52k Miles.

And yes, lots of build up behind / to the right of the fuse box and battery.

Good tips on where to clean. I'm putting on lifting springs and a hitch receiver so I'll ask if they can look and rinse at the same time.

You've probably seen all the threads on hitch receivers. Definitely go for the 8 bolt type like the TorkLift EcoHitch, https://torkliftcentral.com/2021-ford-mustang-mach-e-trailer-hitch.

https://www.macheforum.com/site/threads/tow-hitch-wiring-harness-for-dummies-me.45514/#post-955618

https://www.macheforum.com/site/thr...t-dirt-water-ingress-risk.50344/#post-1030766

...and more threads.

 

[Mach-Lee]

But I had my tester out, and tested the big fuses underneath the box....and the nasty one has no continuity.

So I got an inline fuse (60A) and wired that line direct to the battery, and confirmed that it was the problem. Zero warning after! No need even to clear codes or anything.

I guess it works, but I personally would take major issue with wiring a critical safety system (Electric Power-Assisted Steering) in a non-OEM fashion. I would replace the entire battery junction box per the service manual if a fuse is blown.

 

[Teslaeata]

What a fabulous write up, very many thanks.

Short sentences and short paragraphs made it a really easy read.

Often posters write one long passage which immediately makes my eyes glaze over and wish to avoid reading it

Interesting, that fused bus bar - is the price for just the bus bar with the welded-on fuses or the entire fuse box?

I’m coming up 5 yrs and 124,000 miles with no symptoms of similar issues yet…….though yesterday when I started Stangy the power steering took a moment to work which I’m hoping was just a slow get-go for Stangy’s systems.

Your experience prompted me to take a peek at that area some time.

And as for EV-fear, I’ve experienced that before and for no good reason

 

[gfacer]

I guess it works, but I personally would take major issue with wiring a critical safety system (Electric Power-Assisted Steering) in a non-OEM fashion. I would replace the entire battery junction box per the service manual if a fuse is blown.

Well, I would agree if it was not drivable before. Then this would have only been for troubleshooting purposes.

But I was driving around with the "failed" state before the fix so I am comfortable driving with the workaround.

So far, so good but since I don't know for sure if the corrosion I saw was the cause of the fuse failure or not, a second failure is still a possibility. The last thing I want to do is install the OEM part and blow the fuse again a week from now.

I also will be adding a bit better version in my in-car tool bag to bypass any of those welded in fuses. I don't know what the other two do but if carrying a fix avoids getting stranded somewhere then it's in the same category as the tire kit to me. I need to get some regular fuses to carry with me too.

And a multi meter, that's going in permanently too.

++++++
To teslaeata: price is for the busbar and plastic around it, that the fuse box clips into. Notably it also is the power to the regular fuse box with a connection in the top left. That was a bit corroded as well.

 

[david_quick]

Thanks for the write-up. What's the mileage? It looks like it was driven hard through some deep salt slurry to reach that high into the frunk. My 2021 is clean in that area, and although I'm in New England, I only have 36K miles on it.

You might want to pull the mudguards and flush the sensors and suspension. Residual salt attracts moisture and the corrosion might continue.

I’ve been an Electronics Tech all my life, even when not actually working as one. Electricity isn’t difficult it’s just different. People don’t do different well.

With all the computers and electronics in cars today I would expect Master Mechanics have a lot of training in electrical/electronics troubleshooting.

 

[Teslaeata]

Well, I would agree if it was not drivable before. Then this would have only been for troubleshooting purposes.

But I was driving around with the "failed" state before the fix so I am comfortable driving with the workaround.

So far, so good but since I don't know for sure if the corrosion I saw was the cause of the fuse failure or not, a second failure is still a possibility. The last thing I want to do is install the OEM part and blow the fuse again a week from now.

I also will be adding a bit better version in my in-car tool bag to bypass any of those welded in fuses. I don't know what the other two do but if carrying a fix avoids getting stranded somewhere then it's in the same category as the tire kit to me. I need to get some regular fuses to carry with me too.

And a multi meter, that's going in permanently too.

++++++
To teslaeata: price is for the busbar and plastic around it, that the fuse box clips into. Notably it also is the power to the regular fuse box with a connection in the top left. That was a bit corroded as well.

…….and let’s face facts, the OE version failed whilst the likelihood of a repair undertaken by somebody who knows what they’re doing is likely to be safe and outlast the car.

And the principle of doing things the OE way is probably lost on many on this forum, those who profess to know best and take shortcuts when it comes to servicing their car, attempting it themselves or not at all, arguing against requirement for brake fluid changes etc etc etc

Just saying……..waits for Reddiesque trolling

 

[WallyS56]

So, just a quick write up on this issue that I have seen a few times here.

Background: 2021 model bought off a dealer group that had 90% plus of the used mach-e listings local to me in Vancouver canada. They were priced well but apparently had come from back east where salt is much.more common on the roads.

I figured / hoped that 4-5 years was low enough use in those conditions that nothing too bad will have happened.

After about 3 weeks of ownership (extended warranty declined too), the power steering goes off one morning. Not driving, it just isn't working when I start the car.

Because it didn't go while driving I suspected a electrical issue. Taking off some panels and looking in the engine bay showed some ground connections and some other electrical connections that were quite corroded.

So I started with the ground connections beside the battery (frunk is out at this point). Removed, cleaned, and used dilectric grease to protect and reinstalled. One screw was too rusty and I had to drill a replacement hole..didn't help but probably a good idea anyway.

I also cleaned around one of the 70a fuses under the fuse box as it looked nasty. It was the leftmost wire in the photo (not my car).

By this point I had scheduled a dealer visit. The car was drivable and weather wasn't great so I didn't revisit.

The dealer visit didn't happen, no EV techs in that day. Then I ended up with a second round of trouble shooting.

I hadn't actually checked fuses, so I did. Nothing. But I had my tester out, and tested the big fuses underneath the box....and the nasty one has no continuity.

So I got an inline fuse (60A) and wired that line direct to the battery, and confirmed that it was the problem. Zero warning after! No need even to clear codes or anything.

Unfortunately, the fuse is welded onto a power bus so I either have to replace the box itself or drill and tap the bus to screw mount a 70A "midi" fuse.

I think the full part is $100-150 and replacing just the fuse is maybe $40. The temporary inline fuse was about $40 too.

I hope this is helpful!

And man, do regular mechanics not want to deal with EVs! None of this troubleshooting was beyond their ability but my local guy didn't even try.

Good info. I live in Blaine and bought my ‘24 in Olympia. Having lived in seven states (Nebraska, which didn’t salt their roads at the time, being one), I’m always a bit amazed at the corrosion damage inflicted by the northern climes.

 

[gfacer]

…….and let’s face facts, the OE version failed whilst the likelihood of a repair undertaken by somebody who knows what they’re doing is likely to be safe and outlast the car.

And the principle of doing things the OE way is probably lost on many on this forum, those who profess to know best and take shortcuts when it comes to servicing their car, attempting it themselves or not at all, arguing against requirement for brake fluid changes etc etc etc

Just saying……..waits for Reddiesque trolling

I would argue that one of the best reasons to swap out the full OEM part is so that your car looks "normal" if you have to bring it in to the dealer for other work or diagnostics.

 

[Teslaeata]

I would argue that one of the best reasons to swap out the full OEM part is so that your car looks "normal" if you have to bring it in to the dealer for other work or diagnostics.

Normally, yes.

Suppose it depends who does the job, and out of warranty I’d be happy to go with poster’s workmanship

 

[ChehRob]

This sounds like an opportunity for someone to open a business trouble shooting the electricals. From what gfacersaid not a lot of tools would be needed, at least initially. First step would be, LOL, hiring an attorney to properly word the customer contracts.

 

[gfacer]

You've probably seen all the threads on hitch receivers. Definitely go for the 8 bolt type like the TorkLift EcoHitch, https://torkliftcentral.com/2021-ford-mustang-mach-e-trailer-hitch.

https://www.macheforum.com/site/threads/tow-hitch-wiring-harness-for-dummies-me.45514/#post-955618

https://www.macheforum.com/site/thr...t-dirt-water-ingress-risk.50344/#post-1030766

...and more threads.

Yikes. I didn't buy the "good one". But returning it probably doesn't make sense either.

I think the answer for me, who won't be using the hitch much, will be to just use some cargo bag hooks and a ratchet strap to take off some of the weight off any hitch and bikes that I think go over the 165 pound weight / leverage limit.

I could, and will still consider, getting some steel or stainless steel plates cut to go into the frame to act as a super-washer and spread out the weight like I see the European hitch does.

 

[SteveMach-ee]

Yikes. I didn't buy the "good one". But returning it probably doesn't make sense either.

I think the answer for me, who won't be using the hitch much, will be to just use some cargo bag hooks and a ratchet strap to take off some of the weight off any hitch and bikes that I think go over the 165 pound weight / leverage limit.

I could, and will still consider, getting some steel or stainless steel plates cut to go into the frame to act as a super-washer and spread out the weight like I see the European hitch does.

Keep in mind that the entire hatch shell and spoiler are plastic. Since any hitch bike rack will have a bit of play, going over a bump will create an impulse force on the straps. It might work if you pad every contact point well, but I’m worried about the spoiler bending. It seems like more of a PITA than just returning the rack. Good Luck!

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