redranger04g

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While their lift springs offer a very slight improvement in ride quality, the lowering springs offer more because they are progressive instead of linear like the lift and OEM springs. We installed the lift springs on Eric’s car then a month later we replaced them with the progressive lowering springs and there was an even smoother ride. As far as I know, he’s the only one that’s had both on his car. Might want to hit him up and he can give you more details. The springs and bars do give a better ride but they do not help with the rear bounce. For that you need the Koni rear shocks I’ve modded to fit the Mach-E. Start with the springs and bars though and see how you like it. If the rear bounce is not all that often I’d stick with the OEM rear shocks.
Thanks for that, I missed that part about the lift springs being linear. Eibach needs to make a direct replacement progressive spring. I'm sure I'll end up doing springs and konis at some point, might as well do it at the same time. I'm just not interested in lowering the car, but I will for a better ride. What spacer did you use with the H&R springs to get that 1/4" back? Maybe I could do lowering springs with spacer and keep ride height the same. Seems counterproductive but has to be better than stock springs.

Does anyone happen to know if the SR and ER shocks are different valving? Curious if moving from a SR to an ER shock would do anything for ride improvement. Probably a waste of money and just need to go with the Konis.
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rreddy3

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While their lift springs offer a very slight improvement in ride quality, the lowering springs offer more because they are progressive instead of linear like the lift and OEM springs. We installed the lift springs on Eric’s car then a month later we replaced them with the progressive lowering springs and there was an even smoother ride. As far as I know, he’s the only one that’s had both on his car. Might want to hit him up and he can give you more details. The springs and bars do give a better ride but they do not help with the rear bounce. For that you need the Koni rear shocks I’ve modded to fit the Mach-E. Start with the springs and bars though and see how you like it. If the rear bounce is not all that often I’d stick with the OEM rear shocks.
I played the waiting gave with TD on ebay and just scored the Eibach anti roll bars at a nice discount from list. I think it was about a week to get the buy now offer. But it is done. Delivery could be second week of June per TD. That's ok.

Where I live in northern Virginia the roads are good for the most part. Although I have been saying I am going to also go for the Koni's "just because", frankly I don't mind the ride of the car. Seems fine to me. It doesn't bounce me around or beat my backside to death. No one has ridden in the back. I don't know if that would put things in a different light or not. My experience with the car is back to the condition of the roads here. The roads are good, I've no beef with the ride. Would I like the Konis, sure, why not. But maybe I'll pull back on the Koni idea and just do the bars. TBD.

Thanks for the input you and so many others have given to members concerning the suspension.
 

markboris

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Thanks for that, I missed that part about the lift springs being linear. Eibach needs to make a direct replacement progressive spring. I'm sure I'll end up doing springs and konis at some point, might as well do it at the same time. I'm just not interested in lowering the car, but I will for a better ride. What spacer did you use with the H&R springs to get that 1/4" back? Maybe I could do lowering springs with spacer and keep ride height the same. Seems counterproductive but has to be better than stock springs.

Does anyone happen to know if the SR and ER shocks are different valving? Curious if moving from a SR to an ER shock would do anything for ride improvement. Probably a waste of money and just need to go with the Konis.
I purchased the spacers from Steeda for the rear springs. There are no spacers for the front struts that will work with the Mach-E so no sense in installing them in the rear unless you want the rear to be higher than the front.

There are only two different valved shocks for the Mach-E. All non-GT and GT. Makes no difference with SR or ER. Of course the GTPE is completely different all together being active Magneride shocks.
 

markboris

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I played the waiting gave with TD on ebay and just scored the Eibach anti roll bars at a nice discount from list. I think it was about a week to get the buy now offer. But it is done. Delivery could be second week of June per TD. That's ok.

Where I live in northern Virginia the roads are good for the most part. Although I have been saying I am going to also go for the Koni's "just because", frankly I don't mind the ride of the car. Seems fine to me. It doesn't bounce me around or beat my backside to death. No one has ridden in the back. I don't know if that would put things in a different light or not. My experience with the car is back to the condition of the roads here. The roads are good, I've no beef with the ride. Would I like the Konis, sure, why not. But maybe I'll pull back on the Koni idea and just do the bars. TBD.

Thanks for the input you and so many others have given to members concerning the suspension.
I would only install the Koni's if you drive on roads that constantly give you the rear end bucking bouncy ride. If not, leave the OEM shocks in there. While the Koni's do almost eliminate the bounce, they also give you a much more firm ride in the rear and you will feel more of the road and they are a bit noisier than the OEM shocks so I only recommend using them if the bounce really bothers you.
 

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I would only install the Koni's if you drive on roads that constantly give you the rear end bucking bouncy ride. If not, leave the OEM shocks in there. While the Koni's do almost eliminate the bounce, they also give you a much more firm ride in the rear and you will feel more of the road and they are a bit noisier than the OEM shocks so I only recommend using them if the bounce really bothers you.
Thanks Mark. Truth be told, the ride is fine for me on the roads I most often encounter. Saving an expense is a good thing. In your view Mark, are you distinguishing firm ride from better handling? I see the Eibachs as improving the handling by better controlling body roll and so on. But I don’t necessarily equate firmer ride with improved handling. I appreciate your thoughts on that with these cars. Thanks.
 


redranger04g

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I purchased the spacers from Steeda for the rear springs. There are no spacers for the front struts that will work with the Mach-E so no sense in installing them in the rear unless you want the rear to be higher than the front.

There are only two different valved shocks for the Mach-E. All non-GT and GT. Makes no difference with SR or ER. Of course the GTPE is completely different all together being active Magneride shocks.
Having read through the eibach lifting springs thread, lowering springs thread, koni thread and the bouncy ride thread, I haven't heard of any SR owners replacing the rear shocks only with the GT shocks. GT springs on an SR didn't make a difference. May try this first as I can do it in my driveway and then go to Koni if there is zero improvement. Koni with lift springs would also be an interesting combination.
 

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Thanks Mark. Truth be told, the ride is fine for me on the roads I most often encounter. Saving an expense is a good thing. In your view Mark, are you distinguishing firm ride from better handling? I see the Eibachs as improving the handling by better controlling body roll and so on. But I don’t necessarily equate firmer ride with improved handling. I appreciate your thoughts on that with these cars. Thanks.
No, I am saying the Koni's give you better handling, only that they will firm up the ride to the point where you will feel much for of the irregularities of the road which the Eibach progressive lowering springs take away so you are basically right back with the same ride you had with the stock shocks and springs. Eibach sway bars improve handling. Eibach progressive lowering springs soften (improve) the ride. Koni's rear shocks greatly lessen rear end bounce and make the rear end ride more harsh.
 

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Having read through the eibach lifting springs thread, lowering springs thread, koni thread and the bouncy ride thread, I haven't heard of any SR owners replacing the rear shocks only with the GT shocks. GT springs on an SR didn't make a difference. May try this first as I can do it in my driveway and then go to Koni if there is zero improvement. Koni with lift springs would also be an interesting combination.
There is very very little difference between the non-GT and GT shocks. I have had both. On my premium I replaced the springs and the shocks with GT shocks/springs back 3 years ago. There was a slight improvement in handling and the ride was a bit more firm. However, it was NOT worth the $800 or so that I believe it cost me to do it back then. For about the same price, you can get the Eibach GT lowering springs and sway bars which will greatly improve the handling and ride. I would not touch the OEM shocks unless you have a huge issue with the rear end bounce and if so then get the Koni's but prepare to get back the harshness you lost when you install the springs.

You cannot use the Koni shocks I modded with lift springs. They will not extend the extra length needed when the lift springs are installed.
 

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No, I am saying the Koni's give you better handling, only that they will firm up the ride to the point where you will feel much for of the irregularities of the road which the Eibach progressive lowering springs take away so you are basically right back with the same ride you had with the stock shocks and springs. Eibach sway bars improve handling. Eibach progressive lowering springs soften (improve) the ride. Koni's rear shocks greatly lessen rear end bounce and make the rear end ride more harsh.
Richard, rreddy3, here. Distinguishing from redranger's questions also in this thread.

I am not considering changing springs. I am going to install the Eibach bars. I have debated with myself whether to go with Koni shocks on the rear just because I can, not necessarily because I need them.

I think what you are saying, Mark, is, IF both Koni rear shocks and lower, progressively wound Eibach rear springs are installed, they effectively cancel each other out. In effect you wind up with same ride as with the OEM springs/shocks.

I think you're also saying, IF OEM springs are retained, if rear end bounce is an issue, Koni rear shocks will tame the rear end bounce ... and rear end bounce perception depends on road conditions and driver/passenger tolerance for ride oscillations. Objective measurements of compression and rebound are different issues than perceived quality (recall the person who introduced the boat ride quality studies into the discussion).

Also, I think you're saying, if subjective perception is the ride quality is poor, the Eibach progressive lowering springs will help. BUT, if the subjective evaluation/concern is bouncing/insufficiently controlled vertical oscillations, the Koni shocks will help tame that beast.

Going another step, I think you're saying, if the subjective perception is the ride is fine as it is, and there is no subjective concern with oscillations, it isn't broken so don't fix it. In that case, let 'er ride with OEM shocks and springs in the back.

Finally, if subjective evaluation of ride and oscillations are satisfied and the goal is to tighten up the handling, go for the Eibach anti roll bars and call it a day.

So, that's my takeaway.

I'm good with the ride quality and ride motions, I just want to tighten up the handling, so I'll go with the Eibach bars and ... call it a day.

thanks again, take care, best regards,
 

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Richard, rreddy3, here. Distinguishing from redranger's questions also in this thread.

I am not considering changing springs. I am going to install the Eibach bars. I have debated with myself whether to go with Koni shocks on the rear just because I can, not necessarily because I need them.

I think what you are saying, Mark, is, IF both Koni rear shocks and lower, progressively wound Eibach rear springs are installed, they effectively cancel each other out. In effect you wind up with same ride as with the OEM springs/shocks.

I think you're also saying, IF OEM springs are retained, if rear end bounce is an issue, Koni rear shocks will tame the rear end bounce ... and rear end bounce perception depends on road conditions and driver/passenger tolerance for ride oscillations. Objective measurements of compression and rebound are different issues than perceived quality (recall the person who introduced the boat ride quality studies into the discussion).

Also, I think you're saying, if subjective perception is the ride quality is poor, the Eibach progressive lowering springs will help. BUT, if the subjective evaluation/concern is bouncing/insufficiently controlled vertical oscillations, the Koni shocks will help tame that beast.

Going another step, I think you're saying, if the subjective perception is the ride is fine as it is, and there is no subjective concern with oscillations, it isn't broken so don't fix it. In that case, let 'er ride with OEM shocks and springs in the back.

Finally, if subjective evaluation of ride and oscillations are satisfied and the goal is to tighten up the handling, go for the Eibach anti roll bars and call it a day.

So, that's my takeaway.

I'm good with the ride quality and ride motions, I just want to tighten up the handling, so I'll go with the Eibach bars and ... call it a day.

thanks again, take care, best regards,
Yes, you hit the nail on the head. All the above is exactly what I am saying and starting with the bars to tighten up the handling is all you may need if you are happy with everything else.
 

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And thanks for all the feedback mark. We appreciate you spending money and time so we don’t have to.
That got my laugh of the week. I've never had anyone quite put it that way but I know many were thinking that. Ha. Actually I have spent more money on tires than anything else but that is a different story. By the way, did you know I installed a full air suspension on my car? Had it for a month and took it off. Wasn't ready for prime time and I was not about to engineer more specialized parts to make it all work properly.
 

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Yes, you hit the nail on the head. All the above is exactly what I am saying and starting with the bars to tighten up the handling is all you may need if you are happy with everything else.
Thank you for the response Mark.

The Eibach bars are on the way. Likely not here until second week of June. Koni shocks are in the “suspense file”.?

You, Steve, Eric, Mike, Martin, and others have kindly offered suggestions on the Eibach ARB R and R. Thank you.

As I continue to (over?) think that process before the bars arrive I may circle back with “nuts and bolts” Q’s on the R and R process.

Meanwhile, Pebbles the (non) hunting poodle, is thrilled to know the Koni shock budget funds have been reprogrammed to the ? discretionary expenditure account, that would be at her discretion since I serve as resident human at her discretion.??
 
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@redranger04g

Forgot to mention:

Lift springs for the SR RWD w/ NCM batteries is not available from Eibach nor recommended.

Eibach used mine as a test vehicle and said that the weight is less and the lift springs will not level.

They modified the springs to make it work on my SR RWD NCM and said that mine will be a one of a kind Eibach lifted Mach E. So it has a 2" lift all the way around; unlike 1.5" for the AWD, ER, and GT.

However, if it's a LFP battery (post Job 2), then it will work fine.
 

redranger04g

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That got my laugh of the week. I've never had anyone quite put it that way but I know many were thinking that. Ha. Actually I have spent more money on tires than anything else but that is a different story. By the way, did you know I installed a full air suspension on my car? Had it for a month and took it off. Wasn't ready for prime time and I was not about to engineer more specialized parts to make it all work properly.
I did not know that. That is impressive, you’ve really tried it all. I mean one day someone has to produce a direct replacement shock that we can swap in the rear. I have a F150 and the back end was similar to the Mach e. It bounced heavily on any large bump at 60+, had to swap the rear shocks out the first week of owning it and it solved the problem. Whoever is under dampering these rear ends needs to stop lol.

Next project for you is just lift it and long travel it. That’ll solve any bounce problem
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