10.2.0 Update postponed

[MetalCord]

I got an update pending message when I came home for lunch. I hit the update now button and walked away. When I came back out to go back to work, update was done. I didn't plug in the L2 charger but the HVB was around 80%. I imagine my experience is the intended experience for Mach-E owners. It was nice to see something go right so smoothly for once.

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[kf_man]

I had the same issue today. When I got home I triggered the update and got the message that it was postponed. I checked the state of the LVB and it was around 70%. I plugged in and charged the HVB from 62% to 80% (which pushed the LVB to 79%) and then the update completed successfully.

I did notice a "Check 12-Volt Battery" message in the app, so I guess it's time to have that replaced.

 

[motto]

Half the replies are talking HVB... an error like this would have to be low LVB SOC instead.

I am wondering if people use ACC power at all in their day-to-day. My car is either OFF or fully ON and my orig 2021 LVB is never <90%. The only thing drawing from LVB is for remote-control/car-status and due to charging mostly L1 it is basically always tending the LVB.

 

[kf_man]

Yeah, it's definitely LVB. Part of the confusion is that charging the HVB also charges the LVB. It doesn't help that there's no easy way to see the LVB charge level without a scan tool.

I don't use ACC mode at all, I just leave the car fully on when I'm sitting in it (nice to have the A/C anyway). I think there are two factors: age of the LVB and charge cadence. My LVB is over four years old now and I only charge once or twice per week on level 2. I suspect that gives the LVB more time to drop. Thankfully I've never seen any signs of vampiric drains on my car; this is the first time that the LVB has caused me any issues. I suspect that living in the PNW helps: we don't get many super cold days here.

 

[CzarR]

Hi, my 2022 ER has the same issue now. I didn't use the car for almost a month(may be drove a couple of miles). Today I received a battery error on app asking to replace or recharge. It cleared as started driving but on the app it still shows.

Your latest update was postponed because the vehicle battery was low.

I drove for about a couple of hours. HVB battery is at 72%. Tried to update manually but still keep getting the error.

I just ordered a obd2 device to check the soc%. Should I replace my 12v battery? I can replace it my self but should I go to ford to reset anything in order for the update to process or will it go through automatically?

 

[thenew3]

Hi, my 2022 ER has the same issue now. I didn't use the car for almost a month(may be drove a couple of miles). Today I received a battery error on app asking to replace or recharge. It cleared as started driving but on the app it still shows.

Your latest update was postponed because the vehicle battery was low.

I drove for about a couple of hours. HVB battery is at 72%. Tried to update manually but still keep getting the error.

I just ordered a obd2 device to check the soc%. Should I replace my 12v battery? I can replace it my self but should I go to ford to reset anything in order for the update to process or will it go through automatically?

If you have a L2 charger available at home, set it to the lowest current and let it sit on the charger for a few hours (overnight if possible) that'll charge up your 12v battery to a level where the update can install. Or plug it into a L1 charger and let it sit overnight

 

[CzarR]

If you have a L2 charger available at home, set it to the lowest current and let it sit on the charger for a few hours (overnight if possible) that'll charge up your 12v battery to a level where the update can install. Or plug it into a L1 charger and let it sit overnight

Oh ok. I have l2. Lowest I can go is 8A. Will try that tonight and report back.

 

[CzarR]

If you have a L2 charger available at home, set it to the lowest current and let it sit on the charger for a few hours (overnight if possible) that'll charge up your 12v battery to a level where the update can install. Or plug it into a L1 charger and let it sit overnight

You are a champ. I followed your instructions. Did a manual update this morning, Update went through just fine. Thanks for the help.

 

[thenew3]

You are a champ. I followed your instructions. Did a manual update this morning, Update went through just fine. Thanks for the help.

Glad to see it worked for you!

 

[superdave80]

Half the replies are talking HVB... an error like this would have to be low LVB SOC instead.

It's a cryin' shame that the programmers at Ford are too stupid to tell us WHICH battery is the problem. How hard would it be to put '12V' in the error message somewhere? And how low is 'too low'? 60%? 70%?

 

[Mach-Lee]

It's a cryin' shame that the programmers at Ford are too stupid to tell us WHICH battery is the problem. How hard would it be to put '12V' in the error message somewhere? And how low is 'too low'? 60%? 70%?

Yes I agree they need to add "12V" to the message to clarify which battery is low, because that causes way too much confusion.

The required SoC threshold varies depending on the specific update and the condition of the battery. The threshold is actually set based on the estimated amount of energy (in watt-hours) the OTA requires, not a percentage. But generally the highest you would need to complete an OTA is around 85-90%. In some cases, if the battery is bad even 100% won't be enough watt-hours, so the 12V battery would have to be replaced before the OTA could install.

 

[thenew3]

Yes I agree they need to add "12V" to the message to clarify which battery is low, because that causes way too much confusion.

The required SoC threshold varies depending on the specific update and the condition of the battery. The threshold is actually set based on the estimated amount of energy (in watt-hours) the OTA requires, not a percentage. But generally the highest you would need to complete an OTA is around 85-90%. In some cases, if the battery is bad even 100% won't be enough watt-hours, so the 12V battery would have to be replaced before the OTA could install.

How does the computer know how many watt-hours the 12v has? Is there a 12V state of health variable somewhere? I know there's a 12v state of charge, but that doesn't reflect state of health and overall capacity remaining.

 

[Mach-Lee]

How does the computer know how many watt-hours the 12v has? Is there a 12V state of health variable somewhere? I know there's a 12v state of charge, but that doesn't reflect state of health and overall capacity remaining.

The BMS keeps track of the amp and watt hours currently in the battery via the battery current sensor. Which is why it's important to properly reset the BMS when you replace the battery. There is not a state of health parameter you can view. But if health gets too low, it will send the Check 12-Volt Battery message in FordPass, so you should replace the battery then.

 

[thenew3]

The BMS keeps track of the amp and watt hours currently in the battery via the battery current sensor. Which is why it's important to properly reset the BMS when you replace the battery. There is not a state of health parameter you can view. But if health gets too low, it will send the Check 12-Volt Battery message in FordPass, so you should replace the battery then.

So if someone does the 12v reset procedure without replacing the battery, does that potentially throw off the BMS making it think there's potentially more watt hours available then the battery can actually deliver?

 

[Mach-Lee]

So if someone does the 12v reset procedure without replacing the battery, does that potentially throw off the BMS making it think there's potentially more watt hours available then the battery can actually deliver?

YES. And that could be bad if an OTA tried to install that used more energy than the battery has available, because the battery would go dead and you'd brick the car. That's why I'm very clear in my posts not to reset the BMS unless it's absolutely necessary and you have a known good/charged battery.

There are additional safeguards in place to hopefully prevent the above from happening, but I can't be sure they're present on older vehicles with outdated software.

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