steve.panse

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Thanks for this solution! I’ve always felt it was a design oversight to have no mechanical way into the car in case of electrical/software failure. We shouldn’t need to rig it like this, but it gives me incredible peace of mind knowing I can get into the car.

@Ford Motor Company , please always include a mechanical key option to get into the vehicle on future designs.
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McSquashy

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Saw this thread when Mach-Lee first posted last month. Since then, I've been putting off implementing this workaround because it bothered me to think I should have to jury rig my door on a new, 50k+ vehicle. Begrudgingly, I think I'm going to cave and err on the side of caution. I see a trip to the hardware store in my future.

Edit: Thank you, @Mach-Lee, for coming up with a simple, yet effective workaround. Even if it is unattractive.
 
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Speedwagon

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I have a question: if the frunk doesn't open because the 12V isn't dead, but the frunk leads in the bumper are designed to open the the frunk with a dead 12V, couldn't a disconnect be devised(maybe a fuse, or a switch) that simply disconnects the 12V battery and allows the frunk jumper leads to work properly?
Admittedly, I have not looked at the wiring, and this car is new to me. But seems like it could be a more permanent workaround that can be more easily hidden, no?
 

Homestead

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I have a question: if the frunk doesn't open because the 12V isn't dead, but the frunk leads in the bumper are designed to open the the frunk with a dead 12V, couldn't a disconnect be devised(maybe a fuse, or a switch) that simply disconnects the 12V battery and allows the frunk jumper leads to work properly?
Admittedly, I have not looked at the wiring, and this car is new to me. But seems like it could be a more permanent workaround that can be more easily hidden, no?
I was thinking of similar solution. I don't keep anything in the frunk so wouldn't mind if frunk jumper leads were always activated. I don't have a wiring diagram but it might be as simple as pulling a wire out of a connector.
 
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Mach-Lee

Mach-Lee

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I have a question: if the frunk doesn't open because the 12V isn't dead, but the frunk leads in the bumper are designed to open the the frunk with a dead 12V, couldn't a disconnect be devised(maybe a fuse, or a switch) that simply disconnects the 12V battery and allows the frunk jumper leads to work properly?
Admittedly, I have not looked at the wiring, and this car is new to me. But seems like it could be a more permanent workaround that can be more easily hidden, no?
I would not trust my safety to a 12V disconnect that may possibly fail. The whole car would shut down while driving.

A locksmith is the solution in the rare situation of being completely locked out.
 


Speedwagon

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I would not trust my safety to a 12V disconnect that may possibly fail. The whole car would shut down while driving.

A locksmith is the solution in the rare situation of being completely locked out.
Not sure I follow your logic here. We all trusted our safety to such a device. It used to be, and still is, an ignition switch for traditional key cars.

But also, it doesn't have to be a switch. It could be a fused wire, with a fuse in a location that you can more readily access.

I'm sure the occurrence is rare, but it seems a lot of people are interested in running a string about their door to handle this situation. I'm just saying this might be an option as well, if configured correctly.
 
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Mach-Lee

Mach-Lee

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Not sure I follow your logic here. We all trusted our safety to such a device. It used to be, and still is, an ignition switch for traditional key cars.

But also, it doesn't have to be a switch. It could be a fused wire, with a fuse in a location that you can more readily access.

I'm sure the occurrence is rare, but it seems a lot of people are interested in running a string about their door to handle this situation. I'm just saying this might be an option as well, if configured correctly.
I'm advising people not to modify their vehicle wiring harness or battery cables because that introduces potential reliability issues and may be a fire risk. I would consider that a hack job. Modern vehicle systems are more complicated than running everything through a single ignition switch because the consequences of 12V failure are much higher now. It's not necessary to hack your battery cables because Ford will send a 24 hour locksmith to your location if you're locked out.

The string won't take down the whole car if it fails, and is 100% temporary/reversible. Hence it's lower stakes and safer than electrical system modifications.
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