GT Standard Range vs. Premium Extended Range

MonkeyNutz

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That just means they didn’t retest for the appearance package. Probably don’t have to.

I can’t imagine it making much of a difference though.
I don't see where the performance appearance package makes any difference really. They swap the plastic nose cone insert for the one used on the GT. Still smooth plastic. The Select and Premium inserts have a little lip at the bottom, but that's minor. And they have the Brembo brake calipers, that's the major exterior difference. Internally there's the red stitching on the black onyx interior.

GT and Rally trims have the different front end that is more than the just nose inserts. There are the additional air scoops and the more aggressive lower trim for the air dam.
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RetiredPonyboy

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Not sure as to why Ford would not indicate the nose job on a Premium with the GT nose would get worse range than a regular Premium, but as a dog with an education in aerodynamics and some practical application, the GT nose creates more turbulence. ??
I haven't been able to visually compare the GT to a Premium. What is it about the GT nose that creates more turbulence, and do you know if there's any aftermarket mods to reduce the turbulence?
 

MonkeyNutz

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HAHA You are making me NOT miss that car.
We had it for 11 years and for the first 6 years it was driven every day.We had 6 cars so it didn't get driven much after we were together,but drove it rarely and every time I would think I'll take it for a drive the battery would be dead like DEAD!!
NOT able to revive, something like below 1 volt.
We spent hundreds paying people who swore they could fix it.
Dealership wanted 300$ every time just for labor.
I learned early on that if you raise the drivers side slightly with a jack you could unscrew the wheel well piece and the small panel would swing out of the way. After doing that for years and 10 batteries. Later sold it to a kid that thought it was the .holy grail of vettes. Sold it for 6500 turned around bought a 1987 GMC Caballero(only 1800 badged as GMC that last year) and never looked back.
Don't drive that car except every year or so and it ALWAYS starts.
Every now and then I think I see it but every time it had a 3rd brake light so...nope.
My '84 had some battery issues too, I think battery drain was just part of the design. My issues were not to the point you're describing, but maybe it helped because I drove it a lot. During the winter I would keep a battery tender on it, since it was usually parked for about 5 months out of the year. I still put a new battery in it when I got it and I know I replaced the battery a couple times in the while I owned it.

I guess the C4 body style actually came out in '83 but there were not many made that year due to production delays.

Jacking the front end to get the panel off for the battery seems like extra work and unnecessary. There was that tricky 10mm bolt on the bottom of the panel. An open-end wrench was the intended tool, but on some cars that gap was really tight. I know a lot of guys would just not put that bolt back in after removing the panel the first time. Other than that, the 3 bolts in the wheel well for the retainer piece were easy to get with an Allen wrench and that left the single bolt on the right. I suppose the panel could swing on that single bolt, but I could swear I remember the panel lipping in at the bottom and it needed to be lifted straight up. I dunno, I could have that panel off pretty quick. I just never understood why it needed 3 different types of bolts. IIRC, the one on the top right was 3/8 or half and then 10mm on the bottom and hex key in the wheel well bracket.

....I don't miss working on that car. But IMO, the worst thought-out car I've ever owned for battery access is the 2.0L "Badlands" Bronco Sport. WTF, Ford? I gotta take the front air scoop and, air duct, entire air filter assembly out, and risk dropping crap in the primary intake, just to swap the battery?
 

HuntingPudel

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I haven't been able to visually compare the GT to a Premium. What is it about the GT nose that creates more turbulence, and do you know if there's any aftermarket mods to reduce the turbulence?
The drag ducts (Ford calls them “air curtains”) in the outer sides of the nose are the primary contributors. The more prominent splitter also adds some drag. ??
 

superdave80

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Don't expect those range estimates if you are driving freeway speeds with either trim.
It depends on your definition of 'freeway speeds'. That can range from 55 MPH to 75+.
 


n2585722

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It depends on your definition of 'freeway speeds'. That can range from 55 MPH to 75+.
Where I am the freeway speed limit is 75 unless you are in a city. One of the toll roads has a limit of 85 but a lot of people are doing 95 on that road. I now stay off of toll roads though since the Mach E gets better range in traffic than on the toll roads and I don't have to pay tolls either. In a gas vehicle it didn't matter since if take the toll road you save on gas but pay for tolls. If you use the road with traffic you use a lot more gas.
 

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That's another surprise. I assumed that "Magneride" simply meant a stiffer ride for the GT, given that it's the sportier version. I didn't realize the Magneride is adjustable. I keep trying to talk myself out of the GT in the name of "responsible choice" but this forum keeps educating me and pulling me back to the GT! :)
Magneride adjust based on your drive mode selection. Wisper will be the softest and most forgiving ride. Unbridled the most stiff for leaning the car into corners and to manage body roll. Engage is the middle ground. You'll also feel a difference in throttle and brake response, as well as steering. When I'm driving my mom, I go into Wisper to make the ride most comfortable (as an example). I also like Wisper on long Hwy runs for the same reason... the cruise is that much more comfortable for me. Bottom line... it's all about your preference, and how much performance or comfort you want at that moment. GT is an awesome choice... BTW.
 

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My '84 had some battery issues too, I think battery drain was just part of the design. My issues were not to the point you're describing, but maybe it helped because I drove it a lot. During the winter I would keep a battery tender on it, since it was usually parked for about 5 months out of the year. I still put a new battery in it when I got it and I know I replaced the battery a couple times in the while I owned it.

I guess the C4 body style actually came out in '83 but there were not many made that year due to production delays.

Jacking the front end to get the panel off for the battery seems like extra work and unnecessary. There was that tricky 10mm bolt on the bottom of the panel. An open-end wrench was the intended tool, but on some cars that gap was really tight. I know a lot of guys would just not put that bolt back in after removing the panel the first time. Other than that, the 3 bolts in the wheel well for the retainer piece were easy to get with an Allen wrench and that left the single bolt on the right. I suppose the panel could swing on that single bolt, but I could swear I remember the panel lipping in at the bottom and it needed to be lifted straight up. I dunno, I could have that panel off pretty quick. I just never understood why it needed 3 different types of bolts. IIRC, the one on the top right was 3/8 or half and then 10mm on the bottom and hex key in the wheel well bracket.

....I don't miss working on that car. But IMO, the worst thought-out car I've ever owned for battery access is the 2.0L "Badlands" Bronco Sport. WTF, Ford? I gotta take the front air scoop and, air duct, entire air filter assembly out, and risk dropping crap in the primary intake, just to swap the battery?
My wifes was an 84 delivered late in 83.
Someone was ahead of her in SLO and was waiting on black.
Car showed up brown and goldish color and it was the first time I had ever seen painted seats the same metallic as the brownish.
She had the first one on the central coast.
Aluminum half shafts and a suspension that was so stiff you could try and bounce the front fender but No Way.
I had to show her how to drive it correctly cause that thing would do a donut on a freeway off ramp if you weren't careful. LOL!
 

Kawika

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My '84 had some battery issues too, I think battery drain was just part of the design. My issues were not to the point you're describing, but maybe it helped because I drove it a lot. During the winter I would keep a battery tender on it, since it was usually parked for about 5 months out of the year. I still put a new battery in it when I got it and I know I replaced the battery a couple times in the while I owned it.

I guess the C4 body style actually came out in '83 but there were not many made that year due to production delays.

Jacking the front end to get the panel off for the battery seems like extra work and unnecessary. There was that tricky 10mm bolt on the bottom of the panel. An open-end wrench was the intended tool, but on some cars that gap was really tight. I know a lot of guys would just not put that bolt back in after removing the panel the first time. Other than that, the 3 bolts in the wheel well for the retainer piece were easy to get with an Allen wrench and that left the single bolt on the right. I suppose the panel could swing on that single bolt, but I could swear I remember the panel lipping in at the bottom and it needed to be lifted straight up. I dunno, I could have that panel off pretty quick. I just never understood why it needed 3 different types of bolts. IIRC, the one on the top right was 3/8 or half and then 10mm on the bottom and hex key in the wheel well bracket.

....I don't miss working on that car. But IMO, the worst thought-out car I've ever owned for battery access is the 2.0L "Badlands" Bronco Sport. WTF, Ford? I gotta take the front air scoop and, air duct, entire air filter assembly out, and risk dropping crap in the primary intake, just to swap the battery?
Only took me 15 minutes to change the battery using that technique.
Only raise it a little to bit to make using a tool easier than tire nuckle draggin"
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