If I could have only one feature....

[Mach1E]

I would be ok with an automatic setting that is really 1 percent range. I have no idea why you think the 10 percent indicated (sometimes much higher) is false. The number goes down to zero (near zero) when i keep turning off the ac. someone was gaslighting me before that the ac is not kicking in, when you can hear and feel it.

the power taken is a simple enough calculation.

I wouldn't mind more horsepower. i am a little sad that i got the rwd. But simply getting the torque of an ev is good enough for me, for a practical around town car. i have a fun car with more horsepower and better handling.

i bought my model and gave up horsepower to gain range. To piss away that range is infuriating. and can be solved by a software change.

I am not sure why you are arguing with me. your argument seems to entirely be that i shouldn't trust the numbers in the display, without evidence. i consider numbers like that true until proven otherwise. especially because i would think it is in Ford's best interest to minimize the loss due to climate.

I have evidence. Even posted a link to the real world study that tested the power use of AC in BEVs at different temperatures.

Not sure why you seem to want to be angry when the data should make you happier.

If you want other reasons not to believe the display, I could give you a list of things on the Ford display that are commonly WILDLY inaccurate-

Outside temp (commonly off by 10-20 degrees).

Range guess o meter (called a guess o meter for a reason)

Miles/kWh in FordPass. (sometimes close, sometimes double, sometimes shows 99 mi/kwh)

Brake coach (says 100% energy returned, which impossible, also shows the same when in neutral and getting 0% regen).

And yes your “where did my energy go” chart makes the list.

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[bbulkow]

I would be ok with an automatic setting that is really 1 percent range. I have no idea why you think the 10 percent indicated (sometimes much higher) is false. The number goes down to zero (near zero) when i keep turning off the ac. someone was gaslighting me before that the ac is not kicking in, when you can hear and feel it.

the power taken is a simple enough calculation.

I wouldn't mind more horsepower. i am a little sad that i got the rwd. But simply getting the torque of an ev is good enough for me, for a practical around town car. i have a fun car with more horsepower and better handling.

i bought my model and gave up horsepower to gain range. To piss away that range is infuriating. and can be solved by a software change.

I am not sure why you are arguing with me. your argument seems to entirely be that i shouldn't trust the numbers in the display, without evidence. i consider numbers like that true until proven otherwise. especially because i would think it is in Ford's best interest to minimize the loss due to climate.

The USA Today article you posted as proof contains just a statement, and a reference (not a link) to real evidence. It talks about AC when the ambient temp is 80 degrees. I'm talking about the amount of AC when the outdoor temp is *less than* my set temperature, and cold air is blowing on my legs, and the compressor is whining. I don't think your USA Today artical, which is a second hand report of average cases, has much to do.

The GOM is a Guess because it's predicting the future. The amount of power used in the past is not a guess, it's a measurement. I've never seen a temperature reading that was incorrect. I have seen higher temperatures based on road heat, just like in all the other cars I've owned.

I will keep believing the display for power %. It correlates with my settings, as long as I watch them carefully and turn things off when they auto-turn on.

 

[Mach1E]

The USA Today article you posted as proof contains just a statement, and a reference (not a link) to real evidence. It talks about AC when the ambient temp is 80 degrees. I'm talking about the amount of AC when the outdoor temp is *less than* my set temperature, and cold air is blowing on my legs, and the compressor is whining. I don't think your USA Today artical, which is a second hand report of average cases, has much to do.

The GOM is a Guess because it's predicting the future. The amount of power used in the past is not a guess, it's a measurement. I've never seen a temperature reading that was incorrect. I have seen higher temperatures based on road heat, just like in all the other cars I've owned.

I will keep believing the display for power %. It correlates with my settings, as long as I watch them carefully and turn things off when they auto-turn on.

Reading back at what you wrote, I’m a little confused about your statement about you turning it off and it turns itself back on.

What button exactly are you hitting to turn it off?

I took a couple pics. You should hit this button on the top left that looks like a power button-

And then it should look like this-

Is that what you’re doing and then somehow it’s turning itself back on?

I do know it will periodically bring outside air in (so you don’t suffocate from carbon dioxide), but the a/c itself shouldn’t be running, just the fan.

 

[squirrels2nuts]

i have the problem where i turn on the Recirculate air button and it turns itself off. ford trying to regulate the cabin when i've told it what to do already

 

[Mach1E]

i have the problem where i turn on the Recirculate air button and it turns itself off. ford trying to regulate the cabin when i've told it what to do already

I think the recirc is a totally different thing than the a/c being off and turning on like the OP is saying.

Other cars I keep recirc on due to outside smells. The fix for our cars is getting a better cabin air filter. I did and it fixed the outside smells immediately.

 

[squirrels2nuts]

I think the recirc is a totally different thing than the a/c being off and turning on like the OP is saying.

Other cars I keep recirc on due to outside smells. The fix for our cars is getting a better cabin air filter. I did and it fixed the outside smells immediately.

yes, the reason i turn it on is bc i can smell literally everything outside, and then i find the setting i turned on has been reverted when i can smell things again

e: i think this is related to the problem of ford deciding what the cabin temp should be

 

[Mach1E]

yes, the reason i turn it on is bc i can smell literally everything outside, and then i find the setting i turned on has been reverted when i can smell things again

e: i think this is related to the problem of ford deciding what the cabin temp should be

Highly recommend spending the $30 for the filter. Fixes the smells immediately.

The recirc thing has to do with preventing carbon dioxide buildup in the car. Put 5 adults rocking out to Bohemian Rhapsody and it could be a problem.

 

[squirrels2nuts]

yeah but it's just me, and i'm not even breathin!

 

[buzznwood]

yes, the reason i turn it on is bc i can smell literally everything outside, and then i find the setting i turned on has been reverted when i can smell things again

e: i think this is related to the problem of ford deciding what the cabin temp should be

Fords also tend to cancel the re-circulation to prevent the windscreen from misting up in colder outside temps , however this typically depends on the vents direction if you have the air blowing at you or down it should be stay where you leave it but if you have the any air directed towards the windscreen this can cause it to switch to outside air. I suspect the mach-e will follow the same as other Fords.

Its is not normally an issue with physical hvac buttons to just tap it again when you notice it is off, but is a pain when it is buried in a sub menu and you have no clue it has switched off until you smell it. At least you can now control some of the hvac on the mach-e with the volume control being made contextual but when it comes time to change to another EV in the distant future if it has screen based hvac it instanly goes onto my deal breaker list.

 

[squirrels2nuts]

i find this has been reverted in even normal temperatures, and i do not have air directed at the windscreen per the same control screen above.
i think this is part of a larger problem of the op and their temperature controls

 

[DevSecOps]

I will keep believing the display for power %. It correlates with my settings, as long as I watch them carefully and turn things off when they auto-turn on.

I'm gonna side with @Mach1E on this. That gauge is likely full of crap, like most of Ford's numbers and gauges in the MachE. Anyone who ever saw the FP trip reports would know that Ford can't be trusted with historical data.

Why don't you get a BT dongle, hook it up and test the theory? I bet you would find that it's not 10% of your battery going to AC. Get on an open freeway, set cruise control and measure the power consumption with AC on and then with it off.

 

[Mach-Lee]

So one point I'm not sure was made is that percentage is not the same thing as consumption. @bbulkow if you are driving slow, then the climate will be a much larger percentage of total energy use than when driving at freeway speed, even though the actual HVAC consumption is the same. For example:

City speed:
HVAC - 1 kW (17%)
Motors - 5 kW (83%)
Total - 6 kW

Highway speed:
HVAC - 1 kW (4%)
Motors - 25 kW (96%)
Total - 26 kW

Notice the HVAC energy consumption is exactly the same (1 kW) in both cases, even though the percentages are vastly different.

Ford could help here by showing live kW readings rather than just cumulative percentages.

 

[Boselka]

I am in total agreement with the OP. I mean I don’t know if an ECO mode would be my number 1 request. But I can say that A) I think “whisper” mode is no ECO mode, and there is a lot Ford could probably do with software to increase range in an ECO mode if range was the main focus in that mode. We see a lot of EVs that offer this and I don’t know why Ford can’t.

I also agree that auto should be auto and manual should be manual. If I as the operator of the car determine I don’t want AC compressor or Electric heat, or recirculate do t override my choice after 15 minutes. I have done the testing, and there is only way to have the car respect the directions given to it (manual mode, vent only) the question is why can I have no AC compressor or electric heat and have it blended vent and floor?

Thus goes much further than just range, also wear and tear. We are a household that keeps our cars 10 years. Pretty much every AC compressor in a vehicle if it is running all the time will go out. However my experience is choosing not to use the compressor when it is not needed reduces its usage in our area by about 25-30%. This means 10 years of driving can be only 7 years of compressor usage.

Anywho, in closing I am also a little bit shocked at the shade being thrown at the OP for this post. The request here is a request to be able to be more efficient if the driver decides to be. Not take away luxury features that are being purchased. We have a Lane Keep Assist function that is great to have but in the case that we don’t want it active (because of a decision we as the driver are making based on current conditions) we can turn it off and it stays off. This should apply to the AC compressor or heat (for cabin usage)

 

[Mach-Lee]

The request here is a request to be able to be more efficient if the driver decides to be.

I'm pretty sure there's no ECO mode because the HVAC is already programmed to be as efficient as it can be while still meeting temperature and humidity requirements. If you want it to be more efficient, leave it in AUTO and select a more efficient temperature or reduce blower speed (e.g. use AUTO 1 instead of AUTO 3).

A/C compressor runs to keep the air dehumidified, this is important to prevent window fogging. The efficient strategy also involves automatically opening and closing the outside air damper to reduce energy usage. Your inputs are considered, but overridden if the humidity gets too high or if too many minutes pass without fresh air (so passengers don't asphyxiate). The engineers won't let you select a setting that could compromise safety.

I'd also like to make the point that just because heat or A/C is on doesn't mean those are using a lot of electricity. In a lot of cases, the heat and A/C are run at very low levels that wouldn't really impact range that much. For example, in the summer the heat and A/C will run together to dehumidify the air, the heat used is only a small amount (less than 1 kW), nothing close to what it is in the winter. Likewise, when it's in the 40's the A/C compressor will run in recirc mode to dehumidify the air so the windows don't fog, and this also reduces the amount of energy used vs. heating raw outside air. So yes, leaving A/C on can actually use less energy than if you turn it off. The A/C compressor should be running any time the outside temp is above about 40ºF by design. It can slow down to almost nothing (like 5% of max speed), so the energy used is extremely minimal at times.

 

[Auto Motive]

The USA Today article you posted as proof contains just a statement, and a reference (not a link) to real evidence. It talks about AC when the ambient temp is 80 degrees. I'm talking about the amount of AC when the outdoor temp is *less than* my set temperature, and cold air is blowing on my legs, and the compressor is whining. I don't think your USA Today artical, which is a second hand report of average cases, has much to do.

The GOM is a Guess because it's predicting the future. The amount of power used in the past is not a guess, it's a measurement. I've never seen a temperature reading that was incorrect. I have seen higher temperatures based on road heat, just like in all the other cars I've owned.

I will keep believing the display for power %. It correlates with my settings, as long as I watch them carefully and turn things off when they auto-turn on.

USA is a conservative publication and cannot be trusted on ev news. Some articles are gas lite especially on ev adoptionm ownership surveys, etc

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