It doesn't make sense

daemonic3

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1. No brake coach in unbridled. In engage, I usually get in the high 90’s.
2. 67 mph descending the Daniel K every single time. 55 on the upper highway rollers. Any faster and you’re guaranteed a ticket (particularly on the Daniel K). Any slower and the Dodge Rams enroute to get their ticket out of the way will ram you.
3. Wind is always an onshore breeze when I’m driving that route. Headwinds followed by a right crosswind.
4. These are the consistent numbers from 15 months of driving that route.
5. I generally hit the bottom of the Daniel K , 13 or so miles from home, at tte same soc as when I left. If 1pd is off, it’s usually about 3% down. Both are improvements from the 6000 ft peak elevation SOC which has me at 7%+ down, 3 to 4 miles from home.

it’s all good. Drive the car the way you think is best.
Those grades on the big island are NO JOKE and you definitely will have to use friction braking no matter what drive method/mode you use. It sounds like for that terrain, the 1PD rules because you know you won't get friction brakes unless you move your foot to the other pedal, whereas in whisper you basically have to ride the brake pedal and its really hard to know on this thing when you are in the friction zone vs pure regen (I know because I have it on my F150 and WISH I had it on this!). The line is VERY fine and my foot sucks ass at making minor brake adjustments on my hybrid, which drives like Whisper mode.

When I first read about L mode my first thought was "Damn, this would have been HANDY in Kona!" We airbnb'd a house there for a week off the Hawaii Belt rd (Sunset ave) and I swear to god it shot straight up the hill at 20% grade or somewhere near that. Do you use L a lot for the descents?
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mkhuffman

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its really hard to know on this thing when you are in the friction zone vs pure regen (I know because I have it on my F150 and WISH I had it on this!). The line is VERY fine and my foot sucks ass at making minor brake adjustments on my hybrid, which drives like Whisper mode.
And when you have it in Neutral, the same is true - it is hard to know when the friction brakes are being used, and and when it is pure regen. If you are able to get full regen using the brake pedal while in Neutral, you should get the same regen energy as using 1PD when slowing is needed.

To ensure you get all the benefits of "coasting", you could use the drive selector wheel to flip from Neutral to Drive when 1PD slowing is needed. So leave the car in 1PD Unbridled, and use the drive selector wheel to use Neutral when there is good coasting road ahead, and Drive when slowing is needed, all without using the brake pedal.

I suspect coasting is part of the reason range on the trip was so good. But mainly it was speed, or lack of speed.

Philosophically, why buy a GT and then hypermile? I have played around with it myself, but much prefer spinning the wheels.
 

mkhuffman

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This thread is wjhy i normally dislike car enthusiast forums. Endless arguments about meaningless details just because something might or might not be better or different or becasue some guy (always a guy) thinks they know something different from everyone else. Who TF cares? Just drive your damn car.
We need a few more recalls to occupy us.
 

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WHISPER
 

Kamuelaflyer

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Those grades on the big island are NO JOKE and you definitely will have to use friction braking no matter what drive method/mode you use
Nope. The only time I use the brake pedal is when I’m approaching a stop sign. 1pd works fine.
 
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Av8tor

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Whisper, Whisper, Whisper, Whisper, Whisper, Whisper, Whisper, Whisper, Whisper, WHISPER
 

Av8tor

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Just listen to the first 20 seconds!
 
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Mach-Lee

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its really hard to know on this thing when you are in the friction zone vs pure regen (I know because I have it on my F150 and WISH I had it on this!). The line is VERY fine and my foot sucks ass at making minor brake adjustments on my hybrid, which drives like Whisper mode.
The Mach-E uses a blended brake pedal so there are no "zones" like past hybrids. The first part of the pedal travel could be regen only, friction only, or both depending on the circumstances. You can't feel "zones" because the pedal is hydraulically isolated from the brake lines normally (brake-by-wire system). There is basically zero brake feedback on the Mach-E because of this, you won't feel anything in the pedal when ABS engages.

And when you have it in Neutral, the same is true - it is hard to know when the friction brakes are being used, and and when it is pure regen. If you are able to get full regen using the brake pedal while in Neutral, you should get the same regen energy as using 1PD when slowing is needed.
Neutral disables regen braking. So it's always pure friction.

Nobody should be flipping between N and D while driving, that's a safety risk if you select wrong. As others have said, use Whisper mode with 2 pedal if you want to coast. Switch drive modes or press L for regen.
 

dml105

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But when coasting, you are slowing down. Friction, and all that. Therefore you are losing energy by coasting. If you don't want to slow down, you're not coasting, you're maintaining your speed. Maintaining your speed is more efficient than slowing down and speeding back up.
I'll push back on this a little.

Maybe it makes more sense from the other direction: Regenning = Braking. If you apply an electrical load to a generator, the generator's rotation applies a force opposite rotation, just like brakes do. If what they mean by coasting is "on the highway, no regen until the operator desires to slow at a rate beyond the natural rate of decay from road and air friction," then 1) I agree, but 2) have to have some sort of proof that Mach-e does not already do that.
 

Socalsp3

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"if i hold the pedal at a certain position, I can get to the point where there's nothing showing up at all, that is coasting."

So again, isn't that what you can do on your Mach-e?
yes but its tricky in 1pedal to hold your foot right to not accelerate and not brake
 

dml105

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yes but its tricky in 1pedal to hold your foot right to not accelerate and not brake
err on acceleration then. No wasted energy.


(And that's assuming that regen kicks in the INSTANT you lift the pedal lower than that threshold. Given that there is a delay between lifting your foot of the pedal and braking, I don't think it's fair to say that the car instantly switches to regen as soon as your foot is below the equilibrium point on the pedal.)
 

dml105

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I suspect coasting is part of the reason range on the trip was so good.
I doubt it. If the OP's actions were enough to dramatically change the range of the car, Ford (and everyone else) would have that as part of the car's software to do it automatically. My inclination is that looking at the energy drains present in all drives (air resistance, road resistance, energy loss during regenning, and positive changes in elevation), he minimized the air resistance by driving slower.
 
 







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