Lost all power, car started rolling

[Jerrytball]

When you sign into Ford.com, you click on the account tab not dashboard, then once it comes up and settles, you will see it

I did add some easy access access the other day.

When you sign into Ford.com, you click on the account tab not dashboard, then once it comes up and settles, you will see it

I did add some easy access the other day

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[RKinWA]

I did add some easy access access the other day.

I did add some easy access the other day

Nice, I have yet to do that

 

[MoonRiver]

This is a quick recap of what happened almost a week ago. My car is working fine so this is more to let others know what happened and what I did to fix it.

I had my car parked in the driveway. I hopped in the car and moved it forward 40 or so feet into the garage. I turned off the car with the power button and the car started rolling backwards towards the driveway. The brakes really didn't do anything for me. The car rolled back a few feet before I could get it to stop (or it stopped based on something not the brakes).

The car would not turn on at all. Everything that happened was all very quick. I realized it never did the animation on the screen when turning off the car. I popped the hood so I could get to the battery. The doors were dead, but I was able to actually get into them a little. The back door did unlatch but I had to pull it open (the little kicker thing didnt engage).

When I attached a battery jumper to the 12V battery the car instantly revived. I could turn the car on and I moved it forward. I put a block of wood behind the rear tires this time before turning the car off. When I removed the battery jumper and turned the car off it instantly died again. I put the jumper back on and turned the car on and let the HV battery charge the 12V battery. I let it sit for 20min and according to the ford.com account page the 12V got up to 75%. I turned the car off and it went completely dead again. I hooked the 12V battery to my NOCO battery charger overnight, but that didn't help. Ultimately the 12V battery completely died.

The next morning I picked up a 12V battery from Ford. It cost me $205 and took about 10 or so minutes to swap out. The car has been running perfectly since.

To replace the 12V battery I did the following:
1. Remove the trim plastic around the frunk thing. I left the frunk in place completely.
2. Removed the nut holding the strut bar (or whatever that black bar is that runs from one side to the other right above the battery). I only removed the nut on the battery side and then rotated the bar out of the way.
3. Removed the 2 bolts on the battery retainer thing. They are on the windshield side of the battery at the bottom. 8mm socket.
4. Slide the battery towards the back of the tray (towards windshield).
5. Removed battery wires from battery (10mm socket) and tucked each of them out of the way and where they wouldn't touch any metal.
6. Pulled battery out and put new one in.
7. Steps 1-5 in reverse order.

This is a quick recap of what happened almost a week ago. My car is working fine so this is more to let others know what happened and what I did to fix it.

I had my car parked in the driveway. I hopped in the car and moved it forward 40 or so feet into the garage. I turned off the car with the power button and the car started rolling backwards towards the driveway. The brakes really didn't do anything for me. The car rolled back a few feet before I could get it to stop (or it stopped based on something not the brakes).

The car would not turn on at all. Everything that happened was all very quick. I realized it never did the animation on the screen when turning off the car. I popped the hood so I could get to the battery. The doors were dead, but I was able to actually get into them a little. The back door did unlatch but I had to pull it open (the little kicker thing didnt engage).

When I attached a battery jumper to the 12V battery the car instantly revived. I could turn the car on and I moved it forward. I put a block of wood behind the rear tires this time before turning the car off. When I removed the battery jumper and turned the car off it instantly died again. I put the jumper back on and turned the car on and let the HV battery charge the 12V battery. I let it sit for 20min and according to the ford.com account page the 12V got up to 75%. I turned the car off and it went completely dead again. I hooked the 12V battery to my NOCO battery charger overnight, but that didn't help. Ultimately the 12V battery completely died.

The next morning I picked up a 12V battery from Ford. It cost me $205 and took about 10 or so minutes to swap out. The car has been running perfectly since.

To replace the 12V battery I did the following:
1. Remove the trim plastic around the frunk thing. I left the frunk in place completely.
2. Removed the nut holding the strut bar (or whatever that black bar is that runs from one side to the other right above the battery). I only removed the nut on the battery side and then rotated the bar out of the way.
3. Removed the 2 bolts on the battery retainer thing. They are on the windshield side of the battery at the bottom. 8mm socket.
4. Slide the battery towards the back of the tray (towards windshield).
5. Removed battery wires from battery (10mm socket) and tucked each of them out

Yeah it's not intuitive, I just learned about it a few months ago, always thought it was big battery and it just wasn't up to date as it didn't match my charge level lol

Thank you for the steps of replacing the battery. Glad you fixed it. Have you looked into other non Ford AMG battery? It doesn’t have to be Ford battery does it?

 

[rreddy3]

OK, thank you I wish it would indicate 12 V because I was kind of thinking that was the big battery because it shows the estimated distance to the right? Cause I knew my big battery was at 90%.

I got curious about the 12v battery SOC several days ago after an exchange I had with someone on the Ford MME chat line who told me the SOC shown on the " (name's) account " home page, pictured in above post, is not the LVB SOC but is the HVB SOC. I asked why this SOC varies from the SOC on the FordPass app. The person's answer was it was a timing issue between FP and Ford.com receiving data.

Note, I am not vouching for the accuracy of what the person told me. I'm merely stating what was said to me.

Back to my curiousity, after that chat I found a thread on the forum from last December concerning LVB SOC. In that thread Mach-Lee responded to a question about the Ford.com SOC indication as follows,

"Mach-Lee said:
Because it's a website coding error that references LVB % instead of HVB %. They will fix it eventually, and it will return to showing high voltage % instead."

My takeaways are that is why on Ford.com the SOC is not labeled or named "LVB" or "12v" battery SOC, and we're seeing LVB SOC on Ford.com by accident, and we'll see it until we don't see it, at which point it presumably will revert to being the HVB SOC.

 

[Jerrytball]

log on to the ford.com site, then upper right hand corner click on the person icon, you'll see a dropdown list. The one you want is ".........account" (mine is "chris' account). click on that, it'll open a screen which will display the 12 v % SOC in the middle, it'll look like this.

Drove 25 miles just now battery at 91%

 

[Jerrytball]

I got curious about the 12v battery SOC several days ago after an exchange I had with someone on the Ford MME chat line who told me the SOC shown on the " (name's) account " home page, pictured in above post, is not the LVB SOC but is the HVB SOC. I asked why this SOC varies from the SOC on the FordPass app. The person's answer was it was a timing issue between FP and Ford.com receiving data.

Note, I am not vouching for the accuracy of what the person told me. I'm merely stating what was said to me.

Back to my curiousity, after that chat I found a thread on the forum from last December concerning LVB SOC. In that thread Mach-Lee responded to a question about the Ford.com SOC indication as follows,

"Mach-Lee said:
Because it's a website coding error that references LVB % instead of HVB %. They will fix it eventually, and it will return to showing high voltage % instead."

My takeaways are that is why on Ford.com the SOC is not labeled or named "LVB" or "12v" battery SOC, and we're seeing LVB SOC on Ford.com by accident, and we'll see it until we don't see it, at which point it presumably will revert to being the HVB SOC.

I’m still thinking pretty much that number on ford.com is the LVB because my HB is 80% right now and it makes sense that the LVB is at 91 because I just drove 25 miles

 

[rreddy3]

I think that is the case too. I only recall seeing the two displayed values being the same one time which I’ve written off to being coincidental. When they are consistently the same is when we can presume that Ford.com is no longer displaying LVB SOC, I would think.

 

[Jerrytball]

I got curious about the 12v battery SOC several days ago after an exchange I had with someone on the Ford MME chat line who told me the SOC shown on the " (name's) account " home page, pictured in above post, is not the LVB SOC but is the HVB SOC. I asked why this SOC varies from the SOC on the FordPass app. The person's answer was it was a timing issue between FP and Ford.com receiving data.

Note, I am not vouching for the accuracy of what the person told me. I'm merely stating what was said to me.

Back to my curiousity, after that chat I found a thread on the forum from last December concerning LVB SOC. In that thread Mach-Lee responded to a question about the Ford.com SOC indication as follows,

"Mach-Lee said:
Because it's a website coding error that references LVB % instead of HVB %. They will fix it eventually, and it will return to showing high voltage % instead."

My takeaways are that is why on Ford.com the SOC is not labeled or named "LVB" or "12v" battery SOC, and we're seeing LVB SOC on Ford.com by accident, and we'll see it until we don't see it, at which point it presumably will revert to being the HVB SOC.

Getting a haircut right now, so I’m waiting on the wife to get her haircut so I went out to the car real quick and ran a scan so here’s what I’m looking at so I think that number is LVB

 

[zvez]

Drove 25 miles just now battery at 91%

it will decrease a bit but my 23 has never dropped below 80% and typically is 85-95%

 

[txaggies07]

Did you put it in park the first time? There's no pawl in the transmission, or it's somehow only run from the 12 V even when the HV is active?

Honestly I don't remember. I usually don't put it in park when turning it off since it does that automatically on shutdown.

 

[txaggies07]

Was this the original 12V battery?
You stated it was a 2021 Vehicle.

Yes, it was my original 12V

 

[txaggies07]

I did add some easy access access the other day.

I did add some easy access the other day

This has been on my to-do list for awhile. I would have still had to remove everything to swap the battery, but it would have been faster for trouble shooting.

 

[Jerrytball]

This has been on my to-do list for awhile. I would have still had to remove everything to swap the battery, but it would have been faster for trouble shooting.

Well, I just did that in case I ever had to jump that battery. Also, I learned those two little access panels. Those are two remove your lightbulbs if that’s all you gotta do to remove those that’s pretty handy.

 

[HuntingPudel]

This has been on my to-do list for awhile. I would have still had to remove everything to swap the battery, but it would have been faster for trouble shooting.

There’s also this: ??

 

[Tim253253]

Getting a haircut right now, so I’m waiting on the wife to get her haircut so I went out to the car real quick and ran a scan so here’s what I’m looking at so I think that number is LVB

what program did you use to get this information?
My car just did the exact same thing as yours and Ford is replacing the HV battery, I expected the 12 volt battery because they had to jump it to get it on the flatbed

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