Rusty rotors

dtbaker61

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I’ve read a bunch about brake material sticking to the rotors, but i see a lot of rust on my rotors. Car is generally garaged but is this expected??

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very normal if you don't drive much and there is any humidity...

you can minimize that by doing proper 'bedding in' of the pad material on the rotors. Basically, you go out and do a series of light, then moderate, then aggressive stops in 2-p mode to force mechanical braking to get the rotors really hot, then drive around for about at highway speed to let the rotors cool without warping.

you want to find a stretch of road where people aren't following you as you do the hard stops, and plan your route to just on a highway you can motor along for 15-20 minutes without stopping to cool the rotors evenly
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dtbaker61

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I wish I knew what was causing the rotors to warp so easily.
any chance that you wash your car, right after you have been driving and rotors are hot?

if you use 1-p driving, *most* of the braking should be regen and the pads/rotors should show very little wear. If you are seeing a lot of brake dust, and you are not doing a lot of really hard braking, then something is really wrong with your brakes.

if you are rolling along on a flat road slowly, and shift to neutral, there should be no perceptible drag or noise.
 

dtbaker61

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Most of the braking is regen in 2PD also.
yes, you have to REALLY hit the brakes hard to get the mechanical braking to kick in.... it's easier if you accellerate, shift to NEUTRAL while you are at speed, and then hit the brakes since you don't get any regen braking that way, it's all mechanical.
 

generaltso

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yes, you have to REALLY hit the brakes hard to get the mechanical braking to kick in.... it's easier if you accellerate, shift to NEUTRAL while you are at speed, and then hit the brakes since you don't get any regen braking that way, it's all mechanical.
Yup, that's how I used to do it. It really would be nice if Ford would add a brake cleaning mode. It's great to just hit that button after it rains and not have to worry about it.
 


Jerrytball

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This is one way to get rid of those rusty rotors. Must be the self forging models.?
 

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any chance that you wash your car, right after you have been driving and rotors are hot?

if you use 1-p driving, *most* of the braking should be regen and the pads/rotors should show very little wear. If you are seeing a lot of brake dust, and you are not doing a lot of really hard braking, then something is really wrong with your brakes.

if you are rolling along on a flat road slowly, and shift to neutral, there should be no perceptible drag or noise.
Not washing after a lot of heavy braking, usually wash after only a two mile drive. No noticeable brake dust not any excessive wear on pads or rotors. All look great.
 

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Dealer went for the whole brake job option. 6mm left on pads, suggested replacing all 4 wheels pads. Turning all 4 rotors. I'm just so excited to pay for this repair that really should not have been necessary. I'm even more excited to see how long it goes without warped rotors, I'm hopeful it will not be an issue again. Still, not going to hold my breath.
 

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Feels exactly like a warped rotor. They had to resurface and it was not flat. Then it was perfect for a few days before it warped again.

Not sure what is causing it though. Dealer is still working on it.
Pull the rotors off, and check for run-out of the wheel hub( at the outmost position), using a dial indicator……… Bill P
 

azerik

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Feels exactly like a warped rotor. They had to resurface and it was not flat. Then it was perfect for a few days before it warped again.

Not sure what is causing it though. Dealer is still working on it.
It's called a tsb:
https://www.macheforum.com/site/thr...rakes-brake-pad-material-stuck-to-rotor.8971/

Even after the new pads mine would last a little while then go to crap again. And It doesn't rain here and I hardly ever get the car wet.

As for the rusty rotors my FFE (that's 12 yrs old) look exactly like the OP's even if in the garage, the humidity alone has done it.

Ended up replacing the front right caliper. It’s been about a week and so far so good. I think it must have been dragging just a little bit and causing brake pad transfer onto the rotor causing the warped feeling.
In Forscan I noticed a setting for <something in the abs settings> 'new- more airgap'
I've thought quite a bit about setting it to that. Actually now that I'm thinking about it I'm grabbing the laptop to see if it's set to that already or not.

Confirmed my car is set to 760-0202-0101-0300-0070
Which in the ABS setting is #1 WBTF 18" Brembo low Airgap (old /DCV)
VS what I think it should be #3 WBTF 18" Brembo increased Airgap
 
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redgrandam

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It's called a tsb:
https://www.macheforum.com/site/thr...rakes-brake-pad-material-stuck-to-rotor.8971/

Even after the new pads mine would last a little while then go to crap again. And It doesn't rain here and I hardly ever get the car wet.

As for the rusty rotors my FFE (that's 12 yrs old) look exactly like the OP's even if in the garage, the humidity alone has done it.


In Forscan I noticed a setting for <something in the abs settings> 'new- more airgap'
I've thought quite a bit about setting it to that. Actually now that I'm thinking about it I'm grabbing the laptop to see if it's set to that already or not.

Confirmed my car is set to 760-0202-0101-0300-0070
Which in the ABS setting is #1 WBTF 18" Brembo low Airgap (old /DCV)
VS what I think it should be #3 WBTF 18" Brembo increased Airgap
No TSB for my car. It is a 2023 with 15,000km on it. Only had it a few months. Not the same issue.
Mine doesn’t have the brembo pads or caliper. But I wonder if it can be increased that way would be good or bad. The new caliper seems to have helped but still not sure if it’s perfect.
 

HuntingPudel

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“Rusty Rotors” the up and coming rodeo cowboy. Always rides the full 8 seconds (unlike GT who rides 5 or less). ??
 

azerik

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No TSB for my car. It is a 2023 with 15,000km on it. Only had it a few months. Not the same issue.
Mine doesn’t have the brembo pads or caliper. But I wonder if it can be increased that way would be good or bad. The new caliper seems to have helped but still not sure if it’s perfect.
They all have the brembo pads and rotors up front, they’re just not painted red like the GT’s.
Might not have a TSB for it because they think the solid pad is the fix, but it’s not. So Fard will just keep getting people complaining about how often the rotor ‘warp’ in these MMe’s even though it’s rust bonded pads. The dealer is going g to claim warped rotors because you’ve heard of it and that sounds a lot more technical than shit rotors and pads on a $50K + car.
 

redgrandam

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They all have the brembo pads and rotors up front, they’re just not painted red like the GT’s.
Might not have a TSB for it because they think the solid pad is the fix, but it’s not. So Fard will just keep getting people complaining about how often the rotor ‘warp’ in these MMe’s even though it’s rust bonded pads. The dealer is going g to claim warped rotors because you’ve heard of it and that sounds a lot more technical than shit rotors and pads on a $50K + car.
Ah ok. I definitely don’t disagree. But there was something really wrong with the amount of brake dust I was getting.
I agree there is still some kind of issue with the pad material or something. But I’ll personally just likely ride it out and put on aftermarket pads and rotors out of warranty.
 

azerik

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What’s odd was with the 19 inch wheels I had huge, just huge, amounts of brake dust. With the GT wheels it’s barely noticeable, most like the the air patter of the 19 being terrible and the GT’s allowing more aor away or behind the wheel face. And the 19’s dust was the front wheels. The GT’s is the rear wheels being dustier.
I swore It was traction control causing the rear. I just got back from a fairly spirited drive where I was pretty hard on the brakes. My front rotors recorded 123 degrees and the rears 128 degrees after a few minutes. I didn’t meter the stock pads after a stint like that but I have walked past the back wheels and just felt the heat bellowing off the back of the car at the wheel. Never found a cause as I only really gave it a ‘well that’s freakin weird’ and moved on. My pads were replaced with the factory pads back in March of 23. They were about 1/2 the thickness of the front. I still think it’s an air gap thing but don’t think I’lol change my gap setting until someone with a GT chimes in with their setting. GTPE’s do have a slightly bigger front brake and might be the ones to use that larger air gap setting. I’m hoping these carbon fiber ceramic pads are the ticket. If I pull the 4 years of history on my car it was in for brakes and tires 7 times in the first 2 years and 3 times with me. The car lived in the Cali coast for the first 2 years and still had those recalled pads when I got it.
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