Squeak at the end of braking

[AliRafiee]

I use one pedal, and stopping on an incline the car rolls back a few inch’s before the friction brakes kick in. And squeeeeeak from the rear. The pads have a ton of material left.
So far I’ve only sprayed the rear brakes with a ton of brake cleaner. Which didn’t help. Hard braking in neutral and parking brakes in neutral hasn’t helped much. Going to inspect the pads and maybe replace them.

Anyone else had this experience?

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[Thesnowback]

Is it only in when the car travels backwards? I get this from time to time in some other cars we own and it goes away then comes back, repeat. Service advisors (different brands) pretty much tell me it’s prob that the pads are glazed and to go drive/brake more aggressively to wear through the glaze.

I’ll be interested if you find a definitive cause and remedy. My MachE does not have this issue FYI.

 

[PilotMark]

I'd try.

If the pads look ok and you're comfortable driving in reverse, I'd try a few HARD stops while in reverse. You could also drive in reverse while stepping on the brakes.

My wife drivers Mustang Molly most of the time. About once a month I'll hit the brakes hard because they don't get used that much otherwise.

Let me know if that helped.

 

[smoke20]

I use one pedal, and stopping on an incline the car rolls back a few inch’s before the friction brakes kick in. And squeeeeeak from the rear. The pads have a ton of material left.
So far I’ve only sprayed the rear brakes with a ton of brake cleaner. Which didn’t help. Hard braking in neutral and parking brakes in neutral hasn’t helped much. Going to inspect the pads and maybe replace them.

Anyone else had this experience?

Did you find a solution?

 

[AliRafiee]

Did you find a solution?

Not yet. I haven’t changed the pads yet. I’m hoping to do it this weekend.

 

[AliRafiee]

I changed the rotors and pads. But seems like I screwed up something on the front driver side. Loud screeching and all sorts of brake, 1pd, and advance track warnings. ??

I’ll check it tomorrow

 

[smoke20]

Ugh.

 

[Teslaeata]

I use one pedal, and stopping on an incline the car rolls back a few inch’s before the friction brakes kick in. And squeeeeeak from the rear. The pads have a ton of material left.
So far I’ve only sprayed the rear brakes with a ton of brake cleaner. Which didn’t help. Hard braking in neutral and parking brakes in neutral hasn’t helped much. Going to inspect the pads and maybe replace them.

Anyone else had this experience?

It’s your butt cheeks unclenching with relief after coming to a halt juuuuusssssssst in time?

 

[Teslaeata]

Not yet. I haven’t changed the pads yet. I’m hoping to do it this weekend.

I’d have the pads out, de-glaze them by rubbing the surface of the friction lining material across some coarse sand/emery paper on a flat surface if it was so much of an issue to me.

I get an ever so slight squeak/creak just as car comes to a stop not sufficient to bother me, though.

 

[AliRafiee]

All solved.

No more squeak when the car comes to a stop and rolls back an inch. Also the squeak when braking hard is gone. I thought that might have been suspension related. ?‍

I put the old front rotors back on and the grinding went away. Most of the codes cleared except for check brakes. C1013 (92)
I cleared it.
Took it for a drive and the squeak from the rear was still there rolling backwards or hard braking.
The code came back in a mile.

Put the original rear rotors back.
The squeak is gone!!!!

Cleared the check brake code, and it popped up again. Read about it on the internet and a EBP Apply and Release procedure (don’t know what that entails yet) was suggested.

I cleared it again, and went for a 10 mile drive and it’s still off. ?

Moral of the story
New rotor + new pads - bad
Old rotors + new pads - good.

I wonder if the problem is still gone if I put the old pads on. It might have just needed some bolts torqued.

My suggestion: Take the rears brakes off the car including the mounting bracket and rotors. Put the same parts back on. See if that solves the problem.
If not replace pads.

My old pads were still 99% thick. I barely had to push the piston back in. So old rotor + new pads is fine.

I just bought some slotted and drilled rotors for the look since I was taking it apart anyway. I hope I can return them with no fuss.

On the plus side, the car stops on a dime with the new pads.

 

[Mach-Lee]

I wonder if just sanding the original pads to remove the glaze would have worked.

Did you use Motorcraft parts or aftermarket? This car is sensitive to non-OEM brake parts.

 

[AliRafiee]

I wonder if just sanding the original pads to remove the glaze would have worked.

Did you use Motorcraft parts or aftermarket? This car is sensitive to non-OEM brake parts.

I used all aftermarket stuff. But the aftermarket rotors cause all sorts of alarm bells. I wonder why it’s so picky. Never had a car do this before.

 

[AliRafiee]

@Mach-Lee
I wonder if there is a setting in ForScan that can recalibrate the system based on the new brake thickness.

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