Testing range efficiency of the 2025 heat pump

GreaseMonkey

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That's just completely wrong. Seems like maybe you're not making a good faith response there, but let's assume you are for the moment.
Your power company will bill you for energy in kilo-watt-hours... key word there is hours. Energy has time.
Your house has equipment with ratings in kilo-watts or watts (no hours) which is a measure of power, which is instantaneous. Energy is the integral of power over time. I'd suggest do some googling or watch a youtube video on power vs energy. I think it will help you wrap your head around this easier. Or some people when just learning electricity will compare it in their mind to water from a hose filling up a bucket. The power is analogous to the flow from the hose. The energy is analogous to the total amount of water that ended up in the bucket.
So when you say "its easy you just need to find the power of each device", no it's not that simple. You could have one hose (or resistive heater) that can get 2 gallons per minute into the bucket, and second hose (or heat pump) that can only get 1 gallon per minute into the bucket. So on the face of it you would think, ok the second hose has to operate twice as long to get the same amount of water in the bucket. That was my original point, is just looking at the power and comparing the two numbers misses the point that the lower number probably has to operate longer.
However there's a whole other concept we haven't talked about which is efficiency. The resistive heater is less efficient. So back to our previous example, say the first hose can deliver 2 gallons per minute but its lossy because it has some holes in it (in electricity you don't have perfect conductors).
So let's say you deliver 2 gals per minute but what comes out of your house water supply is actually 3 gallons per minute. So to fill a 6 gallon bucket it takes 3 minutes and you get charged for 9 gallons.
For the second hose at 1 gal per minute delivered let's say its more efficient and you only lose 0.1 gal per minute. So what's coming from your house is 1.1 gal per minute and what is delivered to the bucket is 1.0 gal/min. So to fill a 6 gallon bucket it takes 6 minutes and you get charged for 6.6 gallons.
The second hose is therefore slower but cheaper for you, so maybe it's a clear winner. Or alternatively say the second hose loss is instead 0.5. Then to fill a 6 gallon bucket it takes 6 minutes but you get charged for 9 gallons just like the first hose.
In my (anecdotal) experience in temperatures below 40°F, it's seeming like this is more similar to the alternative second hose where it's more of a toss up despite Ford's marketing. But I'm curious to hear what others experience.
You make too much sense, so please stop. This is the FORUM. Sense does not belong here
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RickMachE

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Wow, this thread is full of a lot of kaka (unnecessary crap).

Drive the 2025 X miles and note the efficiency (ideally with Car Scanner, noting the starting energy and ending energy).

Drive the 2024 the same route and note the same.

Ideally same conditions, and same speed, and same route side by side.

Then you do the math to show the increase in efficiency, if any.

I expect some stupid Youtuber will put this up within 60 days.
 

Mach1E

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Wow, this thread is full of a lot of kaka (unnecessary crap).

Drive the 2025 X miles and note the efficiency (ideally with Car Scanner, noting the starting energy and ending energy).

Drive the 2024 the same route and note the same.

Ideally same conditions, and same speed, and same route side by side.

Then you do the math to show the increase in efficiency, if any.

I expect some stupid Youtuber will put this up within 60 days.
They might. But it will still be hard to measure a difference of a few percent and know what to blame for the difference. And even if it showed in the numbers, that’s only good for 1 heat setting and exterior temp. Would have to repeat so many times in different conditions.

The batteries, hardware and programming aren’t the same from 2024 to 2025. It’s not just the heat pump. And also would need to find one with similar wear on the tires and battery state of health. And make sure the two drivers drive exactly the same.

It’s not as easy as it sounds.

Either way there seem to be two approaches- the science experiment approach like you and many others like.

Or the clearly less popular math approach that I suggested.

Maybe a much simpler “science experiment” would work-

Drive on cruise control with the heat off for a distance and look at miles/kwh.

Do the same with the heat on.

Look at the difference.

Do this on a heat pump car and an electric heat car and see which makes a bigger difference.
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