Tire mobility kit refill

[Kthomasmd]

does anyone recall seeing that video and can direct me to where I can find it; that has a gentleman showing how to refill the kit using the product "slime”? I saw it on a thread maybe a month ago and had a very good explanation about not having to buy the manufacturer replacement kit for the $80 or so. And had a thorough explanation and video showing how to open up the compressor portion of the kit and unscrew the canister with the tire sealant, and I’m pretty sure he used Slime to refill. I just can’t find the video again.

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[RickMachE]

A simple search on the word "Slime" found it - https://www.macheforum.com/site/threads/tire-mobility-kit-question.22247/post-676767

 

[MoonRiver]

Has anyone fixed a leak using the stock sealant without damaging the TPMS sensor? My impression is that it would.


The other day, I found that one of my four-year-old tires had a slow leak from an old nail plug. So I took it to the dealership, hoping there might still be some warranty left. I was told it was out of warranty, and that the plug was too close to the sidewall to patch it. As a result, I had to replace it—not just that one, but another tire as well, even though it still had plenty of tread left. They ended up replacing them with stock Michelins.

If the stock sealant doesn’t hurt the TPMS sensor, I feel like I could have just filled in the sealant to stopped the leak.

Unfortunately, it happened at a bad time—right after I sold my other car the day before—leaving both my wife and me no transportation except the Mach-E. I had no choice but to get it fixed right away. it really sucked.

 

[macchiaz-o]

If the stock sealant doesn’t hurt the TPMS sensor, I feel like I could have just filled in the sealant to stopped the leak.

From Slime's web site, and I think maybe in our owner manuals, too:

For emergency use only! Slime's Emergency Tire Sealant is designed as a temporary formula in passenger vehicles and must be removed within 3 days or 100 miles.

 

[Space_Pony]

From my experience, tire sealants usually don't work and I carry a tire plug kit that will also avoid the mess inside your wheel.

 

[Teslaeata]

Has anyone fixed a leak using the stock sealant without damaging the TPMS sensor? My impression is that it would.


The other day, I found that one of my four-year-old tires had a slow leak from an old nail plug. So I took it to the dealership, hoping there might still be some warranty left. I was told it was out of warranty, and that the plug was too close to the sidewall to patch it. As a result, I had to replace it—not just that one, but another tire as well, even though it still had plenty of tread left. They ended up replacing them with stock Michelins.

If the stock sealant doesn’t hurt the TPMS sensor, I feel like I could have just filled in the sealant to stopped the leak.

Unfortunately, it happened at a bad time—right after I sold my other car the day before—leaving both my wife and me no transportation except the Mach-E. I had no choice but to get it fixed right away. it really sucked.

If it was unsafe, and so probably illegal in your administrative region, to repair that part of the tyre then by definition it was also unsafe to continue to use the tyre in that condition slime-repaired or not.

Not really sure why you’d need to change another perfectly good tyre though might have been advisable if under half worn.

 

[MoonRiver]

A worn tire is smaller in diameter. If it’s on the front, the car will tend to pull toward that side. If it’s a drive wheel, it can also cause the differential to wear faster because that wheel has to spin faster to keep the car moving straight. To compensate for the faster-spinning wheel, the differential constantly has to rotate one half shaft against the other. If the worn tire is on the rear but not a drive wheel, the car is less likely to pull toward that side, but it can still lean or drift slightly in that direction.
That’s why common sense says you’re better off replacing tires in pairs—either both front tires or both rear tires.

 

[MoonRiver]

Unless the other tire is very new and the same model as the new one. But in my case the other one was 23k miles old,

 

[Teslaeata]

A worn tire is smaller in diameter. If it’s on the front, the car will tend to pull toward that side. If it’s a drive wheel, it can also cause the differential to wear faster because that wheel has to spin faster to keep the car moving straight. To compensate for the faster-spinning wheel, the differential constantly has to rotate one half shaft against the other. If the worn tire is on the rear but not a drive wheel, the car is less likely to pull toward that side, but it can still lean or drift slightly in that direction.
That’s why common sense says you’re better off replacing tires in pairs—either both front tires or both rear tires.

Errrrrrrrm, no!

Unless the wheel & tyre diameter is very significantly different, the odd millimetre difference here & there won’t cause pulling to one side or other.

And unless you have a diff lock which should only be activated on soft ground, the difference in wheel and so driveshaft rotation speed side to side if on a driven axle will be accommodated by the differential - common sense and engineering nouse should tell you this.

What do you think happens when the wheels are going at different speeds on any other than dead straight roads & cornering

Think about it

 

[MoonRiver]

The ionic thing was two new tires plus an alignment adjustment cost $700. The car I sold just one day earlier brought in $600 more than I asked for, and in less than a day, it was already spent—and then some.
Easy come, easy go.

Errrrrrrrm, no!

Unless the wheel & tyre diameter is very significantly different, the odd millimetre difference here & there won’t cause pulling to one side or other.

And unless you have a diff lock which should only be activated on soft ground, the difference in wheel and so driveshaft rotation speed side to side if on a driven axle will be accommodated by the differential - common sense and engineering nouse should tell you this.

What do you think happens when the wheels are going at different speeds on any other than dead straight roads & cornering

Think about it

Of course that’s how the differential works—that’s why there are spider gears inside. But what happens when you’re driving straight, like on the interstate? How often do the spider gears have to rotate to compensate for the rotational difference between the old tire and the new one? Wouldn’t that cause unnecessary wear on the spider gears?

 

[Teslaeata]

The ionic thing was two new tires plus an alignment adjustment cost $700. The car I sold just one day earlier brought in $600 more than I asked for, and in less than a day, it was already spent—and then some.
Easy come, easy go.

Of course that’s how the differential works—that’s why there are spider gears inside. But what happens when you’re driving straight, like on the interstate? How often do the spider gears have to rotate to compensate for the rotational difference between the old tire and the new one? Wouldn’t that cause unnecessary wear on the spider gears?

No.

The difference is so minuscule if at all such that any effect, if real, is so low is unworthy of consideration.


A sense of proportion needs to be applied here or we’re at risk of becoming involved in Reddit-esque arguments.

There’s far more to worry about than this in the way people advise against wheel alignment checks when misalignment does cause more wear, loss in range, if your argument holds out which it doesn’t then also wear to the differential, that they advise against proper maintenance and in favour of poor & lacking maintenance.

 

[T.S.]

Has anyone fixed a leak using the stock sealant without damaging the TPMS sensor? My impression is that it would.


The other day, I found that one of my four-year-old tires had a slow leak from an old nail plug. So I took it to the dealership, hoping there might still be some warranty left. I was told it was out of warranty, and that the plug was too close to the sidewall to patch it. As a result, I had to replace it—not just that one, but another tire as well, even though it still had plenty of tread left. They ended up replacing them with stock Michelins.

If the stock sealant doesn’t hurt the TPMS sensor, I feel like I could have just filled in the sealant to stopped the leak.

Just FYI, I walked out to a completely flat tire one day, went to get the spare tire...surprise. Long story short, I used the inflation kit, and it fixed my tire in 5 minutes...easiest flat tire repair ever. Figuring there had to be a puncture, I took it to a tire shop to get fixed, and they couldn't find anything wrong. That was a year ago, and it has never lost pressure. The service guy at the dealer told me if it was holding up, not to worry about it.

I did have to replace the TPMS but that wasn't very expensive...I believe it was under $200, but may have been $300 max.

Interestingly though, at my last inspection I was told I would probably need at least 2 new tires at my next inspection in a year (maybe another 4k or 5k additional miles), which was surprising. I have a '21 Premium AWD ER with just 25k miles on it (I bought it with 4000). The service shop at the dealer suggested it was due to the weight of the car. I drive in 1P all of the time. The only thing I can think of is I love the way it handles going around curves so I usually take them pretty fast....??? My old ICE car tires usually got at least 40k before being to be replaced.

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