RetiredDP

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Lots of wheel and tire guys say you can't put 275's into a GTPE, at least on the front. But I did it! I used MRR FS06 20"x9" forged flow formed wheels, with (this is IMPORTANT!) a +35 mm offset, i.e., an ET35 setup. This gave me a finger's clearance on the inside edges of the wheel wells. Why not go with 295's on the rear? Because I'd need a wider wheel on the rears, which would disallow tire rotations (10" wouldn't fit on the front), and most importantly, GTPE's already understeer, so why would I add more? I bought the new adjustable Steeda anti-sway rear bar, to dial out the existing (pre-wheel/tire change) understeer (increases the rear anti-sway from 200 pounds to 250-300-350 pounds).

Why not use forged? I got two bids on fully-forged wheels, with one quoting $1500/wheel, and the other $1250/wheel. Neither would guarantee fit. The MRR's were $590 each, including free shipping! MRR also said that 275's wouldn't fit on a GTPE...which just means that they hadn't gotten word that it would work from an end-user. The forged wheels weighed about 23-24 pounds each...the 9" MRR's weighed 26.2 pounds (I weighed the MRR's myself on a digital scale). That compares to the stock GTPE 8" forged flow-formed wheels at 29.5 pounds.

MRR uses different procedures from other wheel manufacturers. They have the wheels built in Taiwan (like everybody else), but the wheels are shipped in an uncompleted state. The offset, bore, surface treatment and powdercoats haven't been done yet. MRR pre-orders many, MANY of these unfinished wheels, and stores them in Caliifornia. Then, when you order the wheel you want, you get to specify the bore, offset, surface finish and color yourself. They then finish making the wheel in California. Whereas the other two wheel companies specified a 4-6-WEEK wait for the wheels, MRR specified a 6-DAY wait! My wheels, which had an extra custom finish, involving extra labor (and cost), were ordered at 4:30 pm on a Friday, and delivered to me 8 days later, on the next Saturday, at 12:30 pm. Did I mention the shipping was free?

The wheels came with a 66.6 mm hub bore, and the Mach-E's have a 63.4 mm hub. My fault, I didn't specify the hub bore...I would specify a 63.7 mm bore if I did it again. I added 63.4 mm-to-66.6 mm hub ring adapters (plastic), so the lug bolts wouldn't be carrying all of the weight.

I worried about how hard it would be to force 275's onto 9" rims (the wheel specs for these tires say 9"-11" wheels are okay). So I coated the outsides of the wheels (1 coat), including the TOP OUTER EDGE, and the inner surfaces of the barrels (2 coats) with Gyeon Rim Q2 ceramic coat. The Gyeon Rim ceramic is a special high-temp coating, made to withstand the high heat from brake calipers. So far, brake dust doesn't seem to stick. When I finished the coatings, the insides of the rims felt like glass. Note that this is a "Pro" coating ($50 on Amazon), but I had no problem applying it. NOTE: on YouTube, the guys showing you how to apply it are doing it wrong...they're applying it much too heavily (I had NO "high spots" when I did it). Just read (backside of the front label) the directions, and follow them, and watch the application video Gyeon has on their website. I had enough of the rim ceramic "vial" left to maybe do 1 additional coat on 2 more wheels.

My tire guy (Premier Mobile in W. Sacramento...find him on the Tire Rack site) said that he had no problems getting the tires on..."probably due to the ceramic coat". Note that I put NO ceramic on the inside edges of the wheel lips (where the tire rests against the rims).

Finally, I had to do a very slight mod to the inner rear felt fender liners. They hang loose from the inner wheel-well metal, and have about a .5" gap between the felt and the metal. I used a 6" piece of black gaffer tape to pull the felt back to the inner well's metal at one point. If you crank the front wheels to the extreme left or right, you can hear/feel a very slight rubbing on the felt liners, but only from a dead stop (like exiting a parallel parking space). I hear/feel no rubbing while cornering, fronts or rears. And no scraping on the front wheel well lips...no grinding necessary! Gaffer tape is like duct tape, but it's stronger and has a MUCH stronger adhesive. I hung some paintings temporarily on a set wall once, with small loops of gaffer tape, and it pulled the outer-and-middle surface of the drywall off. Sold at motion picture supply stores in Hollywood.

Results? My GTPE corners much harder before slipping. And the car feels MUCH more planted on the road (probably due to both the increase from 245 to 275 in width, and the decrease from 45% to 40% on the aspect ratio). General (owned by Continental, who also owns Hoosier) G-Max RS's came in third in Consumer Report's "High Performance Tire Tests", slightly behind Michelin Pilot Sport 4S's and Pirelli P Zeros. Their wet braking was better than either of the others.

Ford Mustang Mach-E Stuffing 275's into a GTPE (square setup) NewWheelsTread.JPG
Ford Mustang Mach-E Stuffing 275's into a GTPE (square setup) NuWheelsFront.JPG
Ford Mustang Mach-E Stuffing 275's into a GTPE (square setup) NewWheelsBack.JPG
Ford Mustang Mach-E Stuffing 275's into a GTPE (square setup) NewWheelsEWS

I got the G-Max's for $196 each, when the Pirellis were $348 and the Pilot Sports were $379. AND the G-Max's have a wear rating of 350, which I feel that our heavy cars need. Tire noise is slightly more (5%), and the ride is slightly stiffer (5%). They have a 10.82" tread width. Range? I'm doing a mountain drive from Tahoe to Nevada this weekend, and will report back.




SteveRoundsGTPEmodded.jpg



 
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HuntingPudel

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Those are the exact tires I have been looking at. I am just waiting on a wheel that I like (and for my stock tires to wear out). šŸ¤ŖšŸ©
 

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Sooooo what Iā€™m hearing is with my 20x9 +35 my next wheels will be 275/40ā€¦
SOLD!!

Ā”Ā”RANGE BE DAMNED!!
You will take a bigger range hit with aftermarket wheels due to aerodynamics than you will with the wider tires. šŸ˜ŽšŸ©
 


fallguy

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Looks good, I went with MRR last year on my GT as well. If thinking about mud flaps, they look pretty good and help keep dirt and chips off. Here is mine. Just wish I had painted gloss black first.

Ford Mustang Mach-E Stuffing 275's into a GTPE (square setup) 20220323_162146
 

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You will take a bigger range hit with aftermarket wheels due to aerodynamics than you will with the wider tires. šŸ˜ŽšŸ©
I should have said ā€œtiresā€ as Iā€™m already rolling the 20x9 wheel set, just with ā€œnarrowā€ 245/45
Ford Mustang Mach-E Stuffing 275's into a GTPE (square setup) D943615B-9DD5-4A6B-985A-A6D36F366F3B
 
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RetiredDP

RetiredDP

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I saw on another thread you're going to go autocrossing, and I see you have numbers... 35mm offset puts you outside of Street class rules? What is this "EVX" class? :)

edit: Reading https://www.scca.com/announcements/288-seb-approves-new-electric-vehicle-provisional-class now!
You've answered your own question above! Here's the deal: Stock class requires tire width no more than 1" wider than OEM...and these tires are 1.22" wider. The OEM Pirellis are 9.6" wide, and mine are 10.82". The wheel width is fine for Stock class...you can go 1" wider, and these wheels meet that spec. No, the wheel offset doesn't affect the classification in this case.

But the REAL reason I'm going to the EVX class (Electric Vehicle eXperimental), is because the SCCA has, for 2022, put almost ALL stock EVs into the SS (Super Stock) class, up against ZR1 Corvettes, Ferraris, Lambos, etc., etc. That is the class for the most extreme variants of ICE sports cars, with huge tires and huge horsepower. TOTALLY unfair to any EV owners. I think I'll do better in an EV-only class.
 
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RetiredDP

RetiredDP

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Those are the exact tires I have been looking at. I am just waiting on a wheel that I like (and for my stock tires to wear out). šŸ¤ŖšŸ©
BTW, you're local to me...I'll be entered into the goldenhillsmustangclub.com "Biggest Little National" Mustang Club event on May 20th-22nd at the Suisun City Hampton Inn & Suites. The only National Mustang Club event in NorCal for the next 3 years! Stop by and say hi!
 

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Lots of wheel and tire guys say you can't put 275's into a GTPE, at least on the front. But I did it! I used MRR FS06 20"x9" forged flow formed wheels, with (this is IMPORTANT!) a +35 mm offset, i.e., an ET35 setup. This gave me a finger's clearance on the inside edges of the wheel wells. Why not go with 295's on the rear? Because I'd need a wider wheel on the rears, which would disallow tire rotations (10" wouldn't fit on the front), and most importantly, GTPE's already understeer, so why would I add more? I bought the new adjustable Steeda anti-sway rear bar, to dial out the existing (pre-wheel/tire change) understeer (increases the rear anti-sway from 200 pounds to 250-300-350 pounds).

Why not use forged? I got two bids on fully-forged wheels, with one quoting $1500/wheel, and the other $1250/wheel. Neither would guarantee fit. The MRR's were $590 each, including free shipping! MRR also said that 275's wouldn't fit on a GTPE...which just means that they hadn't gotten word that it would work from an end-user. The forged wheels weighed about 23-24 pounds each...the 9" MRR's weighed 26.2 pounds (I weighed the MRR's myself on a digital scale). That compares to the stock GTPE 8" forged flow-formed wheels at 29.5 pounds.

MRR uses different procedures from other wheel manufacturers. They have the wheels built in Taiwan (like everybody else), but the wheels are shipped in an uncompleted state. The offset, bore, surface treatment and powdercoats haven't been done yet. MRR pre-orders many, MANY of these unfinished wheels, and stores them in Caliifornia. Then, when you order the wheel you want, you get to specify the bore, offset, surface finish and color yourself. They then finish making the wheel in California. Whereas the other two wheel companies specified a 4-6-WEEK wait for the wheels, MRR specified a 6-DAY wait! My wheels, which had an extra custom finish, involving extra labor (and cost), were ordered at 4:30 pm on a Friday, and delivered to me 8 days later, on the next Saturday, at 12:30 pm. Did I mention the shipping was free?

The wheels came with a 66.6 mm hub bore, and the Mach-E's have a 63.4 mm hub. My fault, I didn't specify the hub bore...I would specify a 63.7 mm bore if I did it again. I added 63.4 mm-to-66.6 mm hub ring adapters (plastic), so the lug bolts wouldn't be carrying all of the weight.

I worried about how hard it would be to force 275's onto 9" rims (the wheel specs for these tires say 9"-11" wheels are okay). So I coated the outsides of the wheels (1 coat), including the TOP OUTER EDGE, and the inner surfaces of the barrels (2 coats) with Gyeon Rim Q2 ceramic coat. The Gyeon Rim ceramic is a special high-temp coating, made to withstand the high heat from brake calipers. So far, brake dust doesn't seem to stick. When I finished the coatings, the insides of the rims felt like glass. Note that this is a "Pro" coating ($50 on Amazon), but I had no problem applying it. NOTE: On YouTube, the guys showing you how to apply it are doing it wrong...they're applying it much too heavily (I had NO "high spots" when I did it). Just read (backside of the front label) the directions, and follow them, and watch the application video Gyeon has on their website. I had enough of the rim ceramic "vial" left to maybe do 1 additional coat on 2 more wheels.

My tire guy (Premier Mobile in W. Sacramento...find him on the Tire Rack site) said that he had no problems getting the tires on..."probably due to the ceramic coat". Note that I put NO ceramic on the inside edges of the wheel lips (where the tire rests against the rims).

Finally, I had to do a very slight mod to the inner rear felt fender liners. They hang loose from the inner wheel-well metal, and have about a .5" gap between the felt and the metal. I used a 6" piece of black gaffer tape to pull the felt back to the inner well's metal at one point. If you crank the front wheels to the extreme left or right, you can hear a very slight rubbing on the felt liners, but only from a dead stop (like exiting a parallel parking space). I hear no rubbing while cornering, fronts or rears. And no scraping on the front wheel well lips...no grinding necessary! Gaffer tape is like duct tape, but it's stronger and has a MUCH stronger adhesive. I hung some paintings temporarily on a set wall once, with small loops of gaffer tape, and it pulled the outer-and-middle surface of the drywall off. Sold at motion picture supply stores in Hollywood.

Results? My GTPE corners much harder before slipping. And the car feels MUCH more planted on the road (probably due to both the increase from 245 to 275 in width, and the decrease from 45% to 40% on the aspect ratio). General (owned by Continental, who also owns Hoosier) G-Max RS's came in third in Consumer Report's "High Performance Tire Tests", slightly behind Michelin Pilot Sport 4S's and Pirelli P Zeros. Their wet braking was better than either of the others.

View attachment 65612
Ford Mustang Mach-E Stuffing 275's into a GTPE (square setup) D943615B-9DD5-4A6B-985A-A6D36F366F3B
Ford Mustang Mach-E Stuffing 275's into a GTPE (square setup) D943615B-9DD5-4A6B-985A-A6D36F366F3B
Ford Mustang Mach-E Stuffing 275's into a GTPE (square setup) D943615B-9DD5-4A6B-985A-A6D36F366F3B
Ford Mustang Mach-E Stuffing 275's into a GTPE (square setup) D943615B-9DD5-4A6B-985A-A6D36F366F3B

I got the G-Max's for $196 each, when the Pirellis were $348 and the Pilot Sports were $379. AND the G-Max's have a wear rating of 350, which I feel that our heavy cars need. Tire noise is slightly more (5%), and the ride is slightly stiffer (5%). They have a 10.82" tread width. Range? I'm doing a mountain drive from Tahoe to Nevada this weekend, and will report back.
Awesome!

How do the better tires affect your traction? My GTPE spins the tires if you stab the throttle at speeds under 30 mph.

It would definitely be faster if they didnā€™t spin.

My last car (Chevy SS) would roast the stock tires (Bridgestone Potenza RE050a) after I tuned it. With Pilot Sport 4S, it dead hooked. Night and day difference.
 

HuntingPudel

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BTW, you're local to me...I'll be entered into the goldenhillsmustangclub.com "Biggest Little National" Mustang Club event on May 20th-22nd at the Suisun City Hampton Inn & Suites. The only National Mustang Club event in NorCal for the next 3 years! Stop by and say hi!
I would, but Iā€™m pretty wrapped up schedule-wise. šŸ˜•
 

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Lots of wheel and tire guys say you can't put 275's into a GTPE, at least on the front. But I did it! I used MRR FS06 20"x9" forged flow formed wheels, with (this is IMPORTANT!) a +35 mm offset, i.e., an ET35 setup. This gave me a finger's clearance on the inside edges of the wheel wells. Why not go with 295's on the rear? Because I'd need a wider wheel on the rears, which would disallow tire rotations (10" wouldn't fit on the front), and most importantly, GTPE's already understeer, so why would I add more? I bought the new adjustable Steeda anti-sway rear bar, to dial out the existing (pre-wheel/tire change) understeer (increases the rear anti-sway from 200 pounds to 250-300-350 pounds).

Why not use forged? I got two bids on fully-forged wheels, with one quoting $1500/wheel, and the other $1250/wheel. Neither would guarantee fit. The MRR's were $590 each, including free shipping! MRR also said that 275's wouldn't fit on a GTPE...which just means that they hadn't gotten word that it would work from an end-user. The forged wheels weighed about 23-24 pounds each...the 9" MRR's weighed 26.2 pounds (I weighed the MRR's myself on a digital scale). That compares to the stock GTPE 8" forged flow-formed wheels at 29.5 pounds.

MRR uses different procedures from other wheel manufacturers. They have the wheels built in Taiwan (like everybody else), but the wheels are shipped in an uncompleted state. The offset, bore, surface treatment and powdercoats haven't been done yet. MRR pre-orders many, MANY of these unfinished wheels, and stores them in Caliifornia. Then, when you order the wheel you want, you get to specify the bore, offset, surface finish and color yourself. They then finish making the wheel in California. Whereas the other two wheel companies specified a 4-6-WEEK wait for the wheels, MRR specified a 6-DAY wait! My wheels, which had an extra custom finish, involving extra labor (and cost), were ordered at 4:30 pm on a Friday, and delivered to me 8 days later, on the next Saturday, at 12:30 pm. Did I mention the shipping was free?

The wheels came with a 66.6 mm hub bore, and the Mach-E's have a 63.4 mm hub. My fault, I didn't specify the hub bore...I would specify a 63.7 mm bore if I did it again. I added 63.4 mm-to-66.6 mm hub ring adapters (plastic), so the lug bolts wouldn't be carrying all of the weight.

I worried about how hard it would be to force 275's onto 9" rims (the wheel specs for these tires say 9"-11" wheels are okay). So I coated the outsides of the wheels (1 coat), including the TOP OUTER EDGE, and the inner surfaces of the barrels (2 coats) with Gyeon Rim Q2 ceramic coat. The Gyeon Rim ceramic is a special high-temp coating, made to withstand the high heat from brake calipers. So far, brake dust doesn't seem to stick. When I finished the coatings, the insides of the rims felt like glass. Note that this is a "Pro" coating ($50 on Amazon), but I had no problem applying it. NOTE: On YouTube, the guys showing you how to apply it are doing it wrong...they're applying it much too heavily (I had NO "high spots" when I did it). Just read (backside of the front label) the directions, and follow them, and watch the application video Gyeon has on their website. I had enough of the rim ceramic "vial" left to maybe do 1 additional coat on 2 more wheels.

My tire guy (Premier Mobile in W. Sacramento...find him on the Tire Rack site) said that he had no problems getting the tires on..."probably due to the ceramic coat". Note that I put NO ceramic on the inside edges of the wheel lips (where the tire rests against the rims).

Finally, I had to do a very slight mod to the inner rear felt fender liners. They hang loose from the inner wheel-well metal, and have about a .5" gap between the felt and the metal. I used a 6" piece of black gaffer tape to pull the felt back to the inner well's metal at one point. If you crank the front wheels to the extreme left or right, you can hear a very slight rubbing on the felt liners, but only from a dead stop (like exiting a parallel parking space). I hear no rubbing while cornering, fronts or rears. And no scraping on the front wheel well lips...no grinding necessary! Gaffer tape is like duct tape, but it's stronger and has a MUCH stronger adhesive. I hung some paintings temporarily on a set wall once, with small loops of gaffer tape, and it pulled the outer-and-middle surface of the drywall off. Sold at motion picture supply stores in Hollywood.

Results? My GTPE corners much harder before slipping. And the car feels MUCH more planted on the road (probably due to both the increase from 245 to 275 in width, and the decrease from 45% to 40% on the aspect ratio). General (owned by Continental, who also owns Hoosier) G-Max RS's came in third in Consumer Report's "High Performance Tire Tests", slightly behind Michelin Pilot Sport 4S's and Pirelli P Zeros. Their wet braking was better than either of the others.

View attachment 65612
Ford Mustang Mach-E Stuffing 275's into a GTPE (square setup) D943615B-9DD5-4A6B-985A-A6D36F366F3B
Ford Mustang Mach-E Stuffing 275's into a GTPE (square setup) D943615B-9DD5-4A6B-985A-A6D36F366F3B
Ford Mustang Mach-E Stuffing 275's into a GTPE (square setup) D943615B-9DD5-4A6B-985A-A6D36F366F3B
Ford Mustang Mach-E Stuffing 275's into a GTPE (square setup) D943615B-9DD5-4A6B-985A-A6D36F366F3B

I got the G-Max's for $196 each, when the Pirellis were $348 and the Pilot Sports were $379. AND the G-Max's have a wear rating of 350, which I feel that our heavy cars need. Tire noise is slightly more (5%), and the ride is slightly stiffer (5%). They have a 10.82" tread width. Range? I'm doing a mountain drive from Tahoe to Nevada this weekend, and will report back.
Love those wheels! too many folks are enamored with all black wheels but I preffer a little more flash (not bling). My favorite wheel from the 70's would be a Minilte eight spoke made for the Mach-E. ( I can dream!)
Ford Mustang Mach-E Stuffing 275's into a GTPE (square setup) boss_450

Tony
 

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RetiredDP

RetiredDP

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Awesome!

How do the better tires affect your traction? My GTPE spins the tires if you stab the throttle at speeds under 30 mph.

It would definitely be faster if they didnā€™t spin.

My last car (Chevy SS) would roast the stock tires (Bridgestone Potenza RE050a) after I tuned it. With Pilot Sport 4S, it dead hooked. Night and day difference.
Really improved traction, but like most ultra-high-performance summer tires, they do break loose more suddenly in a corner. The awd GTPE has almost no tire chirp in a straight line. I would say they break loose like RE-71R's...not as gradually as a Pilot Sport Cup 2's, or Pilot Sport 4S's.
 
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Really improved traction, but like most ultra-high performance summer tires, they do break loose more suddenly in a corner. The awd GTPE has almost no tire chirp in a straight line. I would say they break loose like RE-71R's...not as gradually as a Pilot Sport Cup 2's, or Pilot Sport 4S's.
Iā€™m curious about the results you obtain once you track the G-Maxs in the 5000lb GTPE. Iā€™ve never run them on track but Iā€™ve run Pilot SS, Conti ExtremeContact Sports and Goodyear F1 Supercar G2s in the last 10 years and they have all held up rather well as far as treadwear and resistance to heat-induced greasiness goes.
I know you site the CR report but the Tire Rack track testing seems to put them a ways back from the max performance summer category leaders in outright track numbers. Still, at $190/each perhaps thatā€™s worth it over $300 Contis and $375 Pilot 4Sā€™.

Also, good to see another square set up believer, I did 275s square on my OEM 245/275 SS Sedan in order to mitigate a very slight entry understeer condition and it worked great. Also looks better and improved threshold braking a bit to boot.
 
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Iā€™m curious about the results you obtain once you track the G-Maxs in the 5000lb GTPE. Iā€™ve never run them on track but Iā€™ve run Pilot SS, Conti ExtremeContact Sports and Goodyear F1 Supercar G2s in the last 10 years and they have all held up rather well as far as treadwear and resistance to heat-induced greasiness goes.
I know you site the CR report but the Tire Rack track testing seems to put them a ways back from the max performance summer category leaders in outright track numbers. Still, at $190/each perhaps thatā€™s worth it over $300 Contis and $375 Pilot 4Sā€™.

Also, good to see another square set up believer, I did 275s square on my OEM 245/275 SS Sedan in order to mitigate a very slight entry understeer condition and it worked great. Also looks better and improved threshold braking a bit to boot.
I researched the Tire Rack reviews, and others, and there were a couple of reports that, on track, the G-Max's could get greasy as they heat up. But I'm autocrossing, not tracking this car. The 5-second power-restriction makes the Mach-E unsuitable for track use. The short runs in autocross shouldn't cause overheating. But as you said, the huge price difference is the reason to go with these. So far, on the mountain twisties, they work great. And so far, I'm only getting a range reduction from 254-256 down to 250. Freeway driving to follow this weekend.
Sponsored

 
 




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