Sub install for B&O on leased 2024 Mach-E GT

[UPDATED] Based on feedback from several folks on this thread, I’m going to power the sub from the primary battery to avoid risk of the thinner wires leading to the 12V socket in the trunk, from melting, or worse yet, causing a fire. Thank you for your input![/UPDATE]

Hi Folks,

I know there have been a number of threads over the years on ways to improve the B&O sound system, with several having amazing results for folks who purchased the car and don’t mind doing the wiring etc.

I found this YouTube video, and followed it, but installed a Kicker 10” (51HS10) sub that also fits under the floor board in the trunk.

The results make a massive difference in sound quality, and cost me $400, and is plug and play, meaning I can remove it prior to handing in the Mach-E at the end of the lease very easily.

i highly recommended it for people who have a lease, but want improved sound while they’re in the lease.

Thanks for the link. I am in the same position as you and did not want to do an upgrade in a leased vehicle.

Very interested. Have a ‘24 premium lease and wish the sound was more full.

Do you know why Crutchfield shows the Kicker 10” (51HS10) is incompatible with the mach e with or without B&O? Is it too much pull on our little 12v battery?

scott_77 said:

Very interested. Have a ‘24 premium lease and wish the sound was more full.

Do you know why Crutchfield shows the Kicker 10” (51HS10) is incompatible with the mach e with or without B&O? Is it too much pull on our little 12v battery?

Click to expand...

I don’t know why. I read about using the 12V. It’s not an issue for this size sub based on my research. One thing I did just in case, was used Forscan to change the time that all power outlets and USB ports stay powered on after you turn the car off, from 15 minutes to 1 minute. I did that just to be sure the sun doesn’t draw power after shutting the car down. I also think 15 mins is excessive.

scott_77 said:

Very interested. Have a ‘24 premium lease and wish the sound was more full.

Do you know why Crutchfield shows the Kicker 10” (51HS10) is incompatible with the mach e with or without B&O? Is it too much pull on our little 12v battery?

Click to expand...

Crutchfield states this on most EVs, they don't recommend amp upgrades...they seem to be behind the times on that. I'm running 4000 watts of stereo in my Mach-e, you'll be just fine with the Kicker.

iexiak said:

Crutchfield states this on most EVs, they don't recommend amp upgrades...they seem to be behind the times on that. I'm running 4000 watts of stereo in my Mach-e, you'll be just fine with the Kicker.

Click to expand...

** If you run your amp power wire directly from the 12v battery under the front hood.

My 2024 leased Mach E Premium....

T1328 said:

Hi Folks,

I know there have been a number of threads over the years on ways to improve the B&O sound system, with several having amazing results for folks who purchased the car and don’t mind doing the wiring etc.

I found this YouTube video, and followed it, but installed a Kicker 10” (51HS10) sub that also fits under the floor board in the trunk.

The results make a massive difference in sound quality, and cost me $400, and is plug and play, meaning I can remove it prior to handing in the Mach-E at the end of the lease very easily.

i highly recommended it for people who have a lease, but want improved sound while they’re in the lease.

Click to expand...

this video states the car is pre-wired for a sub… where is this live wire that’s supposedly already connected to the battery? The video didn’t make this clear.

grayfox017 said:

this video states the car is pre-wired for a sub… where is this live wire that’s supposedly already connected to the battery? The video didn’t make this clear.

Click to expand...

The car is pre wired for a sub, and has a so called sub. But it’s just a 6x9 regular speaker. So that’s why its bass is so terrible. The live wire is the wire that goes into the 12V lighter socket in the trunk.

Yeah comments in that video on youtube shows “dan” bought it off someone prior that had it wired. I’m a bit hesitant to start pulling the sidewall off the right side in trunk to see what’s there. Will need to look into this

T1328 said:

The car is pre wired for a sub, and has a so called sub. But it’s just a 6x9 regular speaker. So that’s why its bass is so terrible. The live wire is the wire that goes into the 12V lighter socket in the trunk.

Click to expand...

And that 12v lighter socket is a really undersized wire on an insufficient fuse for all but the smallest of amplifiers.

For lots of reasons, including safety, the amp should be powered directly from the 12v battery.

iexiak said:

Crutchfield states this on most EVs, they don't recommend amp upgrades...they seem to be behind the times on that. I'm running 4000 watts of stereo in my Mach-e, you'll be just fine with the Kicker.

Click to expand...

That is because the max watts and amps listed on the specs is no where near what the car uses. For example, I have fully upgraded stereos in my Mach-e and Lightning. In the Lightning which has a Helix 8 DSP amp, a JL Audio RD1000 amp pushing two 13” JL sub drivers, and an RD 600 for speakers and underseat transducers: the electrical load when listening to bass heavy music as loud as I could actually listen, is about 3 amps with peaks to 4-8 amps. That is measuring with a high end electric amp meter on the stereo power cable as it leaves the 12V battery in the frunk.

Mach1E said:

** If you run your amp power wire directly from the 12v battery under the front hood.

Click to expand...

Mach1E said:

And that 12v lighter socket is a really undersized wire on an insufficient fuse for all but the smallest of amplifiers.

For lots of reasons, including safety, the amp should be powered directly from the 12v battery.

Click to expand...

Oh yeah the idea that you should be hijacking power from there is so foreign to me...I didn't watch the video, but you really should not do that. It's super easy to pull a wire from the battery, at the firewall on the drivers side there is a rubber grommit - poke a hole and go through that. Gently pry up the door trim and there is a conduit, lift the lid and run the wire through. Super easy to take off the b pillar, but you can also just use a zip tie to fish the wire under it (maybe not if running 4 gauge, but very possible with smaller gauges). There's a handful of good spots in the trunk to ground to.

Using the 12v lighter socket in the trunk is such a hack, don't do that.

MrLoganRoss said:

That is because the max watts and amps listed on the specs is no where near what the car uses. For example, I have fully upgraded stereos in my Mach-e and Lightning. In the Lightning which has a Helix 8 DSP amp, a JL Audio RD1000 amp pushing two 13” JL sub drivers, and an RD 600 for speakers and underseat transducers: the electrical load when listening to bass heavy music as loud as I could actually listen, is about 3 amps with peaks to 4-8 amps. That is measuring with a high end electric amp meter on the stereo power cable as it leaves the 12V battery in the frunk.

Click to expand...

That's awesome! I can def say I've pushed more than 2kw through this when doing SPL 30 second runs, using official competition meters, with no issues to the charging system. I've parked my car in a convention center and run demos for 3 days in a row with no charging, no issues.

Music definitely doesn't push as hard as pure sine waves and there isn't much reason to max out my volume when I'm just listening...but I've yet to run into issues pushing it to the max.

Mach1E said:

And that 12v lighter socket is a really undersized wire on an insufficient fuse for all but the smallest of amplifiers.

For lots of reasons, including safety, the amp should be powered directly from the 12v battery.

Click to expand...

Yeah, you’re right. The risk of wires melting or worse is not worth it. I think I’m going to get a Crutchfield CK10 to connect to the main battery. It has a fuse built in, and it’s easy to remove quickly.

I spliced into that wire as a remote turn on.....