Is there an "Easy" Subwoofer Upgrade?

[DadzBoyz]

I've seen many comprehensive sound system upgrade threads here. Most, if not all, are more than I want to dig into.
- I don't want to pull wires, take the interior apart, risk breaking clips, losing screws, etc.
- Smart or not, the idea of playing with the electrical system in an EV, risk of breaking something, voiding warranties, etc. don't sound like a risk I want to take.

That said, I'm fine with the B&O system. I've had better, but my main concern here is the sub-woofer.
So, this is a shot in the dark... Is anyone aware of:
- An upgraded 6x9 subwoofer that would slot right in where the factory one is and utilize the existing amp (I know. Digital/Analog, etc.)
- An upgraded/better 6 inch, 8 inch, sub-woofer that would also fit right in and work with the existing amp....

Thought I'd ask. A "yes" or "no" would be great. If yes, make and model would be helpful.

Thank you all.

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[Ride_the_lightning]

Yes. See my post in the other subwoofer thread. Kicker HS8 powered by the rear hatch outlet. Cost me under $350 and was less than an hour to install.

Thats the easiest you are gonna get. The existing amp basically puts out no power. And the existing spot is too small.

 

[Mr.GVAK]

Hi, I am looking to add HS10 to my 22 Select. I gathered so far that I have to tap into the rear speaker wires, since Select does not have pre-existing wiring. However, for power do we have to run the wire to the 12V battery or is there another source that we can use from the trunk area? You mentioned rear hatch outlet, do you have a pic that you have taken during the install?

 

[mkhuffman]

Hi, I am looking to add HS10 to my 22 Select. I gathered so far that I have to tap into the rear speaker wires, since Select does not have pre-existing wiring. However, for power do we have to run the wire to the 12V battery or is there another source that we can use from the trunk area? You mentioned rear hatch outlet, do you have a pic that you have taken during the install?

I am not familiar with the Select model. Do you have a 12V outlet in the rear hatch? That is what I used to power my subwoofer. As far as speaker connections go, you need to refer to the long and detailed post @markboris created. Basically you need to tap into the speaker wires in the passenger door threshold.

 

[Logal727]

I'd like to know this as well, if there are any helpful guides for a quick upgrade.

 

[Mr.GVAK]

I am not familiar with the Select model. Do you have a 12V outlet in the rear hatch? That is what I used to power my subwoofer. As far as speaker connections go, you need to refer to the long and detailed post @markboris created. Basically you need to tap into the speaker wires in the passenger door threshold.

Thank you! I do have a 12V outlet in the rear hatch. I will tap into it for power.

 

[mkhuffman]

I'd like to know this as well, if there are any helpful guides for a quick upgrade.

Have you seen Mark's thread? Everything you want to know about installing a subwoofer: https://www.macheforum.com/site/threads/adding-a-decent-subwoofer-amp-to-your-mach-e.5481/

 

[Mach1E]

I've seen many comprehensive sound system upgrade threads here. Most, if not all, are more than I want to dig into.
- I don't want to pull wires, take the interior apart, risk breaking clips, losing screws, etc.
- Smart or not, the idea of playing with the electrical system in an EV, risk of breaking something, voiding warranties, etc. don't sound like a risk I want to take.

That said, I'm fine with the B&O system. I've had better, but my main concern here is the sub-woofer.
So, this is a shot in the dark... Is anyone aware of:
- An upgraded 6x9 subwoofer that would slot right in where the factory one is and utilize the existing amp (I know. Digital/Analog, etc.)
- An upgraded/better 6 inch, 8 inch, sub-woofer that would also fit right in and work with the existing amp....

Thought I'd ask. A "yes" or "no" would be great. If yes, make and model would be helpful.

Thank you all.

No.

I don’t think an aftermarket free air 6x8 subwoofer even exists.

And if it did, it would sound terrible in the stock location powered by the stock amp.

The factory sub is designed to go in that spot. It’s also designed to run on minimal power.

If you want to add bass, you have to go with a powered aftermarket sub. No need to worry about voiding warranties.

 

[disneyfun1]

Yes. See my post in the other subwoofer thread. Kicker HS8 powered by the rear hatch outlet. Cost me under $350 and was less than an hour to install.

Thats the easiest you are gonna get. The existing amp basically puts out no power. And the existing spot is too small.

do you have a link to that thread?

 

[Chrollonati]

Hi, I am looking to add HS10 to my 22 Select. I gathered so far that I have to tap into the rear speaker wires, since Select does not have pre-existing wiring. However, for power do we have to run the wire to the 12V battery or is there another source that we can use from the trunk area? You mentioned rear hatch outlet, do you have a pic that you have taken during the install?

I am not familiar with the Select model. Do you have a 12V outlet in the rear hatch? That is what I used to power my subwoofer. As far as speaker connections go, you need to refer to the long and detailed post @markboris created. Basically you need to tap into the speaker wires in the passenger door threshold.

I'm also going to be running an HS10 Kicker sub. I plan on using the rear 12v outlet but I'm still paranoid about running a 150 watt RMS amp off of it. Seeing how it's been a while have either of you ran into issues using the rear outlet long term?

 

[Ahlarict]

It's a switched and fused 20amp circuit - I've been running this 300w RMS sub off it since last February and have never had any issues. Very happy with the setup, though I doubt I push it all that hard.

• Theoretical Calculation: 150 Watts / 12 Volts = 12.5 Amps.
• Real-World Usage: Because amplifiers are not 100% efficient and produce heat, the actual current draw is often slightly higher, roughly 14 amps.

Theoretically, a 300w sub could pull more than 20amps, but mine came with two 10amp fuses built-in.

 

[Chrollonati]

It's a switched and fused 20amp circuit - I've been running this 300w RMS sub off it since last February and have never had any issues. Very happy with the setup, though I doubt I push it all that hard.

• Theoretical Calculation: 150 Watts / 12 Volts = 12.5 Amps.
• Real-World Usage: Because amplifiers are not 100% efficient and produce heat, the actual current draw is often slightly higher, roughly 14 amps.

Theoretically, a 300w sub could pull more than 20amps, but mine came with two 10amp fuses built-in.

Thanks for the reply. I just checked and it looks like the Rockford Fosgate P300-10T which the 10" model of yours has a 20 amp fused 300 rms amplifier and fits with the floorboard in the top position. Since that wattage seems to be working out for you I may go that route instead of the 150 watt rms Kicker HS10.

 

[Ahlarict]

Thanks for the reply. I just checked and it looks like the Rockford Fosgate P300-10T which the 10" model of yours has a 20 amp fused 300 rms amplifier and fits with the floorboard in the top position. Since that wattage seems to be working out for you I may go that route instead of the 150 watt rms Kicker HS10.

Looks perfect. Here're those posi-taps I used for the install - really made installation a breeze!

 

[thomasjbarrett]

Last year I wrote up a short post for upgrading with a non-powered 12" subwoofer tucked under the rear deck. I also found the subwoofer connector to allow hooking into the existing sub without taps or splicing wires. Not as good as a powered sub, but waaaay better than the existing 6x9 sub, I've really enjoyed the improvement. And if I'm ever forced to sell my Mustang I can swap it back to stock in just a few minutes.

Easy Mustang Mach-E Subwoofer Upgrade

Connector links if that's all you want: edsparts amazon

 

[Mach1E]

Last year I wrote up a short post for upgrading with a non-powered 12" subwoofer tucked under the rear deck. I also found the subwoofer connector to allow hooking into the existing sub without taps or splicing wires. Not as good as a powered sub, but waaaay better than the existing 6x9 sub, I've really enjoyed the improvement. And if I'm ever forced to sell my Mustang I can swap it back to stock in just a few minutes.

Easy Mustang Mach-E Subwoofer Upgrade

Connector links if that's all you want: edsparts amazon

Interesting easy setup. Curious why you have it facing up? It’s meant to be a downward firing sub.

I also wonder if you could use a sub with a higher sensitivity to be louder. I can’t imagine a sub made for 1500 watts will be that loud with the factory amp.

I did something similar with my new car and swapped out the factory 8” sub for a Rockford fosgate sub wired to two ohms and it’s a significant improvement even with the factory amp.

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