How to DIY - add access holes for LVB 12v battery connection points & HV Disconnect Relay for Safety

[Luke]

Reading this I am thinking there is an aftermarket product to be developed - frunk covers with built in doors with hinges at the right spot.

what about installing one of these cable connections like Battery Thender. I had those in my bike and on my mustang for the winter. I know the cable is not thick enough for a jumpstart, but again, it is not like you will power a starter or something ?

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[dtbaker61]

I hope those knock-outs aren't metal!

Remember you aren't jump-starting an ICE so you don't need huge cables and clamps.

The positive terminal has a slide-off red plastic cap, and is a couple inches below the panel surface.... really no risk of arc. I probably will take a look around hardware store to see what will be easiest to obtain for most people, and post a revision.

I full-on flip lid with hinge would be nicest, but require more work for the average person... I would hope that Ford watches these forums and takes the hint for design enhancements that people really want:

- a second Fob and/or dependable PAAK
- easy access to 12v for jumps and external loads
- a 1-1/4" receiver for hitch mount light towing and bike racks

 

[dtbaker61]

what about installing one of these cable connections like Battery Thender. I had those in my bike and on my mustang for the winter. I know the cable is not thick enough for a jumpstart, but again, it is not like you will power a starter or something ?

better to have clear access for regular jumper cables..... in theory you could then give, or get, a jump.... and have export capacity to run a 2000watt inverter at home, jobsite, camping, or wherever.

 

[JSW]

I like your solution better.
Mine is a short-term solution born from the frustration with having a 12volt battery problem and not wanting to ever again remove the back and drivers side trim pieces.

 

[GoGoGadgetMachE]

The positive terminal has a slide-off red plastic cap, and is a couple inches below the panel surface.... really no risk of arc. I probably will take a look around hardware store to see what will be easiest to obtain for most people, and post a revision.

I full-on flip lid with hinge would be nicest, but require more work for the average person... I would hope that Ford watches these forums and takes the hint for design enhancements that people really want:

- a second Fob and/or dependable PAAK
- easy access to 12v for jumps and external loads
- a 1-1/4" receiver for hitch mount light towing and bike racks

Not everyone agrees with your list.

We know Ford is on here because @RonTCat said so on the beta OTA thread unless he is trolling and isn't Ford. (he's not trolling I believe and he is Ford I believe) We know @hybrid2bev is self-identified Ford. I forget who else has said they are.

But please don't presume everyone wants the same things.

For example, proper buttons for frunk and hatch are both way more important to me than everything you listed put together.

I don't even know what "Easy access to 12V for external loads" means except for the outlets in the front and back that are already there.

 

[Kamuelaflyer]

Let the Moding begin!
?

I'm going to need the "For Dummies" version of these instructions. Or wait for the premodded versions to become available.

 

[Woeo]

I took initiative from your work and did the same for mine.

I adjusted both holes a bit one to the good, one to the bad.

The positive hole I kept the edge of the 2" hole saw just outside of the ring around the plus symbol. This moved the terminal a bit more towards the hole center.

I ended up mismeasuring a tad from your numbers and pushed my negative access hole a bit towards the windshield. Access will be fine, but I brought the cross support bar into play. Had to carve a bit of vinyl off the knock-out cap to avoid the cross bar. The cap has a bit of depth to allow it to grab.

I purchased them from amazon. They came as a set of three.

 

[Woeo]

The positive terminal has a slide-off red plastic cap, and is a couple inches below the panel surface.... really no risk of arc. I probably will take a look around hardware store to see what will be easiest to obtain for most people, and post a revision.

Vinyl 2" knockout cap

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MN6GQE8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[dtbaker61]

Vinyl 2" knockout cap

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MN6GQE8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

perfect....!
I'll revise the top post so people don't have to hunt.

 

[Maquis]

Be careful when buying the 2" knockout plugs. Be sure what you buy is 2" actual measurement (or whatever holesaw size you used) and not 2" trade size. Electrical conduit (like plumbing pipe) is nominal ID sized. A 2" trade size knockout plug is about 2-1/4" actual.

 

[dtbaker61]

Be careful when buying the 2" knockout plugs. Be sure what you buy is 2" actual measurement (or whatever holesaw size you used) and not 2" trade size. Electrical conduit (like plumbing pipe) is nominal ID sized. A 2" trade size knockout plug is about 2-1/4" actual.

the specs on this particular plug appear to be 'true' 2" hole saw. It is not in the Electrical section, it is in the 'auto body' section. There are also rubber ones, square ones, even white ones.

 

[Maquis]

the specs on this particular plug appear to be 'true' 2" hole saw. It is not in the Electrical section, it is in the 'auto body' section. There are also rubber ones, square ones, even white ones.

Agreed - I just thought I'd comment in case somebody decided not to wait on Amazon and just head out to Home Depot!

 

[CHeil402]

It's odd that there's the + and - symbols in the plastic cover. It's almost like Ford meant to put access panels there and forgot or removed them later in the design. Otherwise, there really isn't an advantage to marking that on a piece that you have to remove to gain access. ?

 

[dtbaker61]

It's odd that there's the + and - symbols in the plastic cover. It's almost like Ford meant to put access panels there and forgot or removed them later in the design. Otherwise, there really isn't an advantage to marking that on a piece that you have to remove to gain access. ?

would have been nicer if the + and - were actually directly over the terminals, and even nicer if they were molded access covers like the mystery removable covers in the front. First thing I did was pop those off to see what they were covering... nothing interesting or needing common access as far as I see ?!

 

[louibluey]

... I know the cable is not thick enough for a jumpstart, but again, it is not like you will power a starter or something ?

The start current (power) might be less than what people are thinking. Does anyone know what the start current for a MME is? The wire gauge needed to start a MME might be relatively small.

I guess there might be two numbers, one for a more discharged 12 V LVB (more initial current to bring the LVB back towards 12V), and the actual load current for the car systems alone to boot up.

I can probably get some numbers, at least for a good 12V battery, by putting a high frequency DC current clamp over one of the LVB cables (HF to see any fast changes, it is still DC current) and watching a couple of normal start ups with a digitizer.

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