PSA: Buy an Industrial 14-50 Receptacle

[Motomax]

This isn't about feelings. It's about adequately selecting your electrical hardware for the use case to avoid a failure.

I'm sharing what the recommendations are from Tesla, Electricians and the evidence suggests all point to the same conclusion.

The resistance to that baffling. My investment in this was the right amount to ensure I properly spec'd my hardware. I'm trying to assist those that don't have enough invested in this.

You’re getting resistance because heat is caused by resistance which is usually caused by a failing connection. That connection can be at the prongs, the wiring(either loose or undersized), or something internal.
I looked though some of those posts and most people responding felt the same way as the people here.

Outlets can certainly fail, and residential quality is probably more susceptible at having quality issues. If you’re really scared, put your outlet in a Nema3 box.

Sponsored

 

[Scooby24]

You and Telsa have listed "grades" that do not exist in the Standard for Attachment Plugs and Receptacles, ANSI/UL 498 and CSA CAN/C22.2 No. 42-99, General Use Receptacles, Attachment Plugs, and Similar Wiring Devices.

Where did you get this information? Post a link to a credible source please. You are entitled to your own opinion, but not your own facts.

I will concede that the grades (commercial vs industrial) are not differentiated by UL but the technical specifications between the different grades based on the standards defined in 498 show the differences in ability to withstand, as an example:

Higher operating temps: 75C vs 60C
Flammability: V-0 vs V-2

Hubbell HBL9450A vs. Leviton 279-S00

I can't do my own testing with these devices but it's clear one is intended to withstand higher temps with better insulating materials.

 

[RonTCat]

But I have had a stove and a dryer and a compressor and a welder plugged in to average quality outlets for over 15 years with no issues. I am quite certain many millions of homes have similar equipment. This is not a systemic issue with the outlets.

The main difference between commercial and industrial is the industrial part is designed for many, many more plug/unplug events. It's kinda like the Harbor Freight drill vs. the Porter Cable drill... after one use, you may deem them "equal". After 100 uses, the difference is a far more obvious, if the Harbor Freight drill even makes it that long.

Both outlets (or drills) are "UL Listed", but one can keep its listing for one hard use, and the other for 20 years.

Also, someone noted the wire connections may become loose. Check the wire clamps on the commercial vs. industrial outlet... the industrial input wire connections are far beefier, and can apply far greater clamp force to the input wires, and likely sustain far greater clamp load over time.

 

[Scooby24]

You’re getting resistance because heat is caused by resistance which is usually caused by a failing connection. That connection can be at the prongs, the wiring(either loose or undersized), or something internal.
I looked though some of those posts and most people responding felt the same way as the people here.

Outlets can certainly fail, and residential quality is probably more susceptible at having quality issues. If you’re really scared, put your outlet in a Nema3 box.

As time goes on, hardware ages, insulators break down with heat cycles and the differences will make themselves known. Yes, a failing connection is a potential cause. But failing after 2 years of use can also be as a result of poor quality components not being able to withstand those power requirements over time.

I spent $13.31 more to get a 5754N. Thirteen dollars. Why wouldn't you?

 

[Jeff_S]

This triggered a question- I have a 40A breaker and plan to charge at 32A. I have the wiring and box already installed, but my previous Clipper Creek charger (which I've since sold) was hard-wired. What's the (industrial grade) socket I should get so that I can plug in the Ford-supplied charger on Day 1 when I bring home my GT-PE?

 

[RonTCat]

This triggered a question- I have a 40A breaker and plan to charge at 32A. I have the wiring and box already installed, but my previous Clipper Creek charger (which I've since sold) was hard-wired. What's the (industrial grade) socket I should get so that I can plug in the Ford-supplied charger on Day 1 when I bring home my GT-PE?

Something like this...
https://www.amazon.com/Hubbell-253-...qid=1628095950&sprefix=hubbell,aps,184&sr=8-3

 

[theo1000]

So when did a TSLA pamphlet override the NEC I wonder. Where in the code is the intent for a 'Industrial Outlet' covered?

Do your own research folks and follow the national codes. Nothing in the code says an 'industrial outlet' is required. Everything can fail, even industrial grade, the codes are built to have multiple lines of defense against catastrophic damage from failure. The code wants things to fail quickly and gracefully and protect life. You would be much better off following the NEC, esp. take the time to research and understand the 'intent' of the code. I do wish all manufacturers would stop giving random confusing advise on electrical standards.

 

[AzCoronaDog]

I will concede that the grades are not defined by UL but the technical specifications between the different grades based on the standards defined in 498 show the differences in ability to withstand, as an example:

Higher operating temps: 75C vs 60C
Flammability: V-0 vs V-2

Hubbell HBL9450A vs. Leviton 279-S00

I can't do my own testing with these devices but it's clear one is intended to withstand higher temps with better insulating materials.

My point is, if the plug and receptacle are working to the standards specifications, it should be able to run safely at full amperage indefinitely, that is what the standards say, contrary to what you and Tesla seem to think.

If the plug and/or receptacle are heating up enough to melt any of the insulating material,
something is out of spec. (60C is 140F and neither should get that hot if everything is working to the specs)

And yes, we know this happens based on the melted connectors! And yes, running anything at it's maximum capacity for extended periods stresses the system and will accelerate the time to failure. And yes, it seems obvious that lower quality components are more prone to failures.

So it is still very good advice to buy quality components as they should give a larger margin of safety and longer time before failure. But even the lowest quality components that meet the specifications should last many many years if not plugged and unplugged excessively.

 

[Jeff_S]

Something like this...
https://www.amazon.com/Hubbell-253-1454-HBL9450A-Receptacle/dp/B000J15QW2/ref=sr_1_3?crid=25G3H93T3QON5&dchild=1&keywords=hubbell+nema+14-50+outlet&qid=1628095950&sprefix=hubbell,aps,184&sr=8-3

thank you!!

 

[Jeff_S]

Something like this...
https://www.amazon.com/Hubbell-253-1454-HBL9450A-Receptacle/dp/B000J15QW2/ref=sr_1_3?crid=25G3H93T3QON5&dchild=1&keywords=hubbell+nema+14-50+outlet&qid=1628095950&sprefix=hubbell,aps,184&sr=8-3

Ah, I just looked at this. With a 40A breaker, is it acceptable to connect a 50A socket? It seems like it shouldn't be allowed per the NEC.

 

[ZuleMME]

Ah, I just looked at this. With a 40A breaker, is it acceptable to connect a 50A socket? It seems like it shouldn't be allowed per the NEC.

Yes. The breaker protects the wiring and outlet from exceeding their design limit. In this case if the wiring supports 40 amps you are all good. Though you SHOULD label the outlet to the max current.

 

[RonTCat]

Ah, I just looked at this. With a 40A breaker, is it acceptable to connect a 50A socket? It seems like it shouldn't be allowed per the NEC.

Yes... it is the other way that is not acceptable, i.e. a 30A socket on a 40A breaker.

 

[Scooby24]

https://www.ford.com/ntzlibs/conten...-sheet/Home_Install_Spec_Sheet_0831_FINAL.pdf

NEMA 14-50 OUTLET DETAILS • CIRCUIT BREAKER 50A – GFCI Recommended • VOLTAGE 240 VAC nominal, 2 poles, 60 Hz • FOUR WIRE CONFIGURATIONS L1, L2, Ground and Neutral • OUTLET NEMA 14-50 (recommend industrial-grade outlet, if plan to plug/unplug often) • CONDUCTORS Follow local and national codes/regulations. • GROUND PIN ORIENTATION Top position of outlet. • VENTILATION Not required. • OUTLET INSTALLATION HEIGHT Between 35”and 60” from ground to outlet. • DIMENSIONS 126mm X 259mm x 59mm (WxHxD)

And with that I'm out. Do what you guys want.

 

[ZuleMME]

https://www.ford.com/ntzlibs/conten...-sheet/Home_Install_Spec_Sheet_0831_FINAL.pdf



And with that I'm out. Do what you guys want.

Wow, almost seems like Ford had a "If" statement in that line. What's it say?

 

[theo1000]

Ah, I just looked at this. With a 40A breaker, is it acceptable to connect a 50A socket? It seems like it shouldn't be allowed per the NEC.

The breaker is there to protect the wiring per code intent. So check the wiring to make sure it is good for 50 amp or 40 amp. I don't believe the code cares about any nuisance tripping.

Sponsored