Mach E GTPE *Bricked* @ BMW i4 M50 Drive Event !?!

[Capt_Everything]

So sorry this has happened to you, Capt_Everything.

It's getting to the point where I'm afraid to drive my car for fear of it breaking down.

What the hell is going on with these failures and what is Ford doing about it?

Thanks.

It's not a matter of if, it's when. It's new technology / production...

Ford can still shine with strong support to fix the kinks quickly. If they do so, I will sing their praises! We will see!

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[dtbaker61]

Looks like the HVB positive contactor didn't release when parked and shut down.

yup, I'd guess this is the problem....
OBDII: Hybrid battery positive contactor - circuit stuck closed


however, the CAUSE is unknown, and the FIX is apparently a big PIA.

I am wondering.... Does the OP often, or ever, use DCFC ?
Ever unplugged while it was still charging ?

 

[SnBGC]

The point is that this contactor is supposed to cut the voltage as close to the cells as possible, it is the feature that is making the car safe in an accident.

But it still too bad that small things like this renders the car completely useless. It should in some way had a failsafe where it could try again and possibly show a warning if it has to do so. The fault code probably needs to be cleared before the car will work agan, even if the problem is resolved (which it probably does by itself).

There is a small disconnect "switch" located right next to the HVB (small red thing (not the wire loop for the charge port). Has to remove the covers to find it, looks like a fuse mount on wires), it can be removed to "manually" disconnect the low voltage supply to those contactors. If there is some fault making them stay open it could be worth a try to just remove that in case there is a small leakage voltage keeping the contactors on.

They should have had dual contactors in series.. in case one got stuck

Agreed. Too bad there isn't an access panel under the rear seat. One large enough to replace that component without dropping the pack.

 

[TRP]

Agreed. Too bad there isn't an access panel under the rear seat. One large enough to replace that component without dropping the pack.

The Ford Tech that replaced the HVBJB on my Premium would have loved that feature. Sadly, battery drop it was

 

[SnBGC]

yup, I'd guess this is the problem....
OBDII: Hybrid battery positive contactor - circuit stuck closed


however, the CAUSE is unknown, and the FIX is apparently a big PIA.

I am wondering.... Does the OP often, or ever, use DCFC ?
Ever unplugged while it was still charging ?

That particular trouble code indicates to me that the modules sent the low voltage signal to the HV junction box to open the contactor and it didn't release. Possibly welded together. The system has pre-charge contactors to avoid that issue.....that is what we are hearing in back shortly after we first start the car. So, not likely a issue caused by the start up procedure. I am leaning towards a thermal management issue of some sort. Too much power or not enough cooling or maybe a little of both. ???

 

[Capt_Everything]

Ford Corporate gave me a jangle while enroute to the service center and the Official Ford Account on the forum has reached out to me. Looks promising as far as initial communication.

The EV tech at Stevens 112 Ford in Patchogue returns from vacation Monday so since they don't work weekends looks like I'll only have 1 business day idle of inactivity.

Ford corporate also helped me get a loaner car too which was nice.

 

[chrisGT]

Ford can still shine with strong support to fix the kinks quickly. If they do so, I will sing their praises! We will see!

Aren't we past the point of "quickly"? It has been going on for months without a generally available fix or recall. There are owners in Canada with their cars waiting for parts for several weeks. Maybe because there is no lemon law for them to use after 30 days...

 

[Capt_Everything]

Aren't we past the point of "quickly"? It has been going on for months without a generally available fix or recall. There are owners in Canada with their cars waiting for parts for several weeks. Maybe because there is no lemon law for them to use after 30 days...

Well that's not encouraging.. searched for keyword HVBJB and not enjoying the stories much :-/

 

[Electric Goat]

My GT also failed at just under 5000 miles. Total turn around time for my repair was about 3 weeks. I still pucker up every time that I push my start button and think, "is this the day that I get stranded again?" No recall yet and no fix except for replacing the failed part with a brand new one? Yikes! Who's to say that I won't have this problem again after 5000 more miles? ?

 

[Thor2j]

Ford Corporate gave me a jangle while enroute to the service center and the Official Ford Account on the forum has reached out to me. Looks promising as far as initial communication.

The EV tech at Stevens 112 Ford in Patchogue returns from vacation Monday so since they don't work weekends looks like I'll only have 1 business day idle of inactivity.

Ford corporate also helped me get a loaner car too which was nice.

Good luck with those clowns. Reached out to me as well and then ghosted. Completely useless.

 

[Mach_Enrique]

Good luck with those clowns. Reached out to me as well and then ghosted. Completely useless.

I have had two issues with my car. One minor paint from factory and one similar to OP brick story (get car back tomorrow after a little over two weeks to repair). Both times Ford Corporate has been super engaged and help keep things moving. They were Incredibly helpful making sure things happen and go smoothly. Does not make it any better when your car bricks but they are really focused on helping MachE customers from my two experiences. Sorry your experience was ghostly.

 

[Thor2j]

I have had two issues with my car. One minor paint from factory and one similar to OP brick story (get car back tomorrow after a little over two weeks to repair). Both times Ford Corporate has been super engaged and help keep things moving. They were Incredibly helpful making sure things happen and go smoothly. Does not make it any better when your car bricks but they are really focused on helping MachE customers from my two experiences. Sorry your experience was ghostly.

I have had 2 as well as my car is now 5 months old and spent half it's life in the shop. 1st time they were helpful. Followed up with dealer. Second time they reached out, promised to help and did absolutely nothing. Kept saying they would take care of it and did absolutely nothing. Lost all faith in ford with this car. Will be going back to German cars when I'm done with this clunker.

 

[dtbaker61]

That particular trouble code indicates to me that the modules sent the low voltage signal to the HV junction box to open the contactor and it didn't release. Possibly welded together. The system has pre-charge contactors to avoid that issue.....that is what we are hearing in back shortly after we first start the car. So, not likely a issue caused by the start up procedure. I am leaning towards a thermal management issue of some sort. Too much power or not enough cooling or maybe a little of both. ???

yes, this and other reports are leading me to think the contactor is getting welded closed.... sensors catch the error and brick the car. Since this could occur either on connect (without enough pre-charge), or disconnect (while under load).

I've seen a little bit of pitting on main contactors when they are 'keyed closed' without pre-charge in DIY EVs.... But the capacitors in EVs charge pretty fast and the arcing I've seen doesn't have time to weld, just pit a little. This leads me to the more likely possibility that there is a problem in sequencing the reduction of charge current before the contactor attempts to snap open when DISCONNECTING from a DCFC while the charge is still in progress at high current.

The only recommendation I can think of is that people using DCFC should be sure to depress the thumblatch, and wait a couple seconds before pulling the plug.

 

[dtbaker61]

The point is that this contactor is supposed to cut the voltage as close to the cells as possible, it is the feature that is making the car safe in an accident.

But it still too bad that small things like this renders the car completely useless. It should in some way had a failsafe where it could try again and possibly show a warning if it has to do so. The fault code probably needs to be cleared before the car will work agan, even if the problem is resolved (which it probably does by itself).

There is a small disconnect "switch" located right next to the HVB (small red thing (not the wire loop for the charge port). Has to remove the covers to find it, looks like a fuse mount on wires), it can be removed to "manually" disconnect the low voltage supply to those contactors. If there is some fault making them stay open it could be worth a try to just remove that in case there is a small leakage voltage keeping the contactors on.

They should have had dual contactors in series.. in case one got stuck

I wonder if manual disconnect of the power to the HV contactor relay would clear the error code ? If the contactor indeed opens, and is not welded shut, the problem is how to clear the code without a trip to the dealership.

I am thinking that the 'beauty cover' really should have three access holes OEM in future models. either 2" ports, or a removal/hinged area over the LVB +/- and HV contactor relay.

 

[Capt_Everything]

yes, this and other reports are leading me to think the contactor is getting welded closed.... sensors catch the error and brick the car. Since this could occur either on connect (without enough pre-charge), or disconnect (while under load).

I've seen a little bit of pitting on main contactors when they are 'keyed closed' without pre-charge in DIY EVs.... But the capacitors in EVs charge pretty fast and the arcing I've seen doesn't have time to weld, just pit a little. This leads me to the more likely possibility that there is a problem in sequencing the reduction of charge current before the contactor attempts to snap open when DISCONNECTING from a DCFC while the charge is still in progress at high current.

The only recommendation I can think of is that people using DCFC should be sure to depress the thumblatch, and wait a couple seconds before pulling the plug.

Interesting, I can say the few times I DCFC I've used the button next to the charge port to disconnect and then after the lights stop cycling I pull the plug out. If the theory is correct until the unlock programming is changed to delay the withdrawal I'd have no problem waiting several second before unplugging.

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