Meguiar's Ultimate Compound worked well on gloss black plastic parts but not the body ??

4sallypat

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Originally, had many body stains & spots that would not come off during hand washing and following up with Meguiar's Ultimate quik detail.

So I bought some Meguiar's Ultimate Compound from Walmart w/ buffing pads.

The stains on the body panels took out the large spots, but still left small pin point dots.

As a side note, I tried it on the stains & scratches on the gloss black plastic parts and found it removed it all perfectly.

Does anyone have a suggestion on removing the small dots on the paint ?

Spots & stains on body panels:

Ford Mustang Mach-E Meguiar's Ultimate Compound worked well on gloss black plastic parts but not the body ?? IMG_0150

After using the compound:
Ford Mustang Mach-E Meguiar's Ultimate Compound worked well on gloss black plastic parts but not the body ?? IMG_0151


Gloss piano black plastic parts came out 100% better:
Ford Mustang Mach-E Meguiar's Ultimate Compound worked well on gloss black plastic parts but not the body ?? IMG_0152
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MuckyMach-e

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You could try Tar-X and/or Iron-X. It’s difficult to know what to suggest without knowing what caused the spots but I would try tar and iron removers and also a clay mitt that has been well wet with a detailing spray. If using a clay mitt also make sure the panel is soaked with detailing spray before rubbing lightly over the affected areas. Hope you get it sorted.
 
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4sallypat

4sallypat

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You could try Tar-X and/or Iron-X. It’s difficult to know what to suggest without knowing what caused the spots but I would try tar and iron removers and also a clay mitt that has been well wet with a detailing spray. If using a clay mitt also make sure the panel is soaked with detailing spray before rubbing lightly over the affected areas. Hope you get it sorted.
Thank you!

I think it's from tree sap.

I'll try your recommendation before I have to get a detailer to remove them professionally.
 

intensifi

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Polishing compound is not for cleaning. It is for removing scratches and swirls.

clay mitts and bars with lubricant are for cleaning (removing contaminant). Next comes iron remover.

if you do all this and have no swirls, time for a graphene coating or PPF.
 

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My suggestion would be (for a very thorough job, not sure it's needed on your recent car, honestly):
1. tar & bug remover on the dirty spots (if they're from bugs or tar that is);
2. foam pre-wash and pressure rinse
3. deep contact wash (to remove earlier bad wax jobs)
4. de-iron spray to remove all iron inclusions and pressure rinse (I prefer to do this before using clay bar)
5. clay bar to make your surface super smooth (medium should do). Make sure to use clay lube abundantly!
6. compound. If you have one, use a DA polisher. Meguire's compound is just fine for home detailers
7. polish. Again, Meguires polish works well
8. IPA wipe (isopropinol alcohol). 50% distiled water and 50% IPA is more than enough
9. Apply a ceramic coating (or two within the hour). Alternatively, if you prefer, you can use wax. Wax will last you 3 months max, a consumer cermic coating between 1 and 2 years. May sound scary to apply, but it's not rocket science, really. Just be rigourous.
10. If you choose the ceramic coating, don't drive the car for 3 days and make sure it stays inside (do not expose to rain!). And do not wash in the next 3 weeks.

This will ensure your car will look better than when you got it from the dealer. But it's a lot of work... .

Just did the above to my wife's 21 year old car, and it came out brand new.
Didn't do it to my 2 month old Mach E, and I'm already sorry I didn't. As it already had swirl marks and scratches when I took reception of it. But then, I was doing my wife's car during my vacation time and the Mach E's a company car... . Anyway, best of luck doing yours!
 


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My suggestion would be (for a very thorough job, not sure it's needed on your recent car, honestly):
1. tar & bug remover on the dirty spots (if they're from bugs or tar that is);
2. foam pre-wash and pressure rinse
3. deep contact wash (to remove earlier bad wax jobs)
4. de-iron spray to remove all iron inclusions and pressure rinse (I prefer to do this before using clay bar)
5. clay bar to make your surface super smooth (medium should do). Make sure to use clay lube abundantly!
6. compound. If you have one, use a DA polisher. Meguire's compound is just fine for home detailers
7. polish. Again, Meguires polish works well
8. IPA wipe (isopropinol alcohol). 50% distiled water and 50% IPA is more than enough
9. Apply a ceramic coating (or two within the hour). Alternatively, if you prefer, you can use wax. Wax will last you 3 months max, a consumer cermic coating between 1 and 2 years. May sound scary to apply, but it's not rocket science, really. Just be rigourous.
10. If you choose the ceramic coating, don't drive the car for 3 days and make sure it stays inside (do not expose to rain!). And do not wash in the next 3 weeks.

This will ensure your car will look better than when you got it from the dealer. But it's a lot of work... .

Just did the above to my wife's 21 year old car, and it came out brand new.
Didn't do it to my 2 month old Mach E, and I'm already sorry I didn't. As it already had swirl marks and scratches when I took reception of it. But then, I was doing my wife's car during my vacation time and the Mach E's a company car... . Anyway, best of luck doing yours!
So when that 9 month effort is over, what do you do for fun?

Glad that works for you. To me, that's about 4 miles over the OCD line.

I use Collinite 845. Bought a bottle years ago. A year later water still beads up, but I usually put it on twice a year. On a new car, I put a coat of Nu Finish on first.
 

Mr.Meme

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Originally, had many body stains & spots that would not come off during hand washing and following up with Meguiar's Ultimate quik detail.

So I bought some Meguiar's Ultimate Compound from Walmart w/ buffing pads.

The stains on the body panels took out the large spots, but still left small pin point dots.

As a side note, I tried it on the stains & scratches on the gloss black plastic parts and found it removed it all perfectly.

Does anyone have a suggestion on removing the small dots on the paint ?

Spots & stains on body panels:

IMG_0150.webp

After using the compound:
IMG_0151.webp


Gloss piano black plastic parts came out 100% better:
IMG_0152.webp
How exactly did you do the black plastic on the doors? Did you use a polisher? Did you put masking tape on all the rubbers and door button?

Mine are also all scratched up (came that way when I got the car)
 

Chris D

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So when that 9 month effort is over, what do you do for fun?

Glad that works for you. To me, that's about 4 miles over the OCD line.

I use Collinite 845. Bought a bottle years ago. A year later water still beads up, but I usually put it on twice a year. On a new car, I put a coat of Nu Finish on first.
LMAO.

The alternative is to sit by the pool and eat vanilla ice cream. Which is what I did during my vacation in previous years.

Anyway, it was an unexpected fun de-stress therapy from my rather stressful job, honestly.

And my wife's car does shine now... ;)
 
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4sallypat

4sallypat

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How exactly did you do the black plastic on the doors? Did you use a polisher? Did you put masking tape on all the rubbers and door button?

Mine are also all scratched up (came that way when I got the car)
I used a buffing pad and the Meguiar's compound cleaner and all the scratches, haze and spots disappeared.

Think Meguiars should have called it "piano black gloss restorer"...
 

Mr.Meme

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I used a buffing pad and the Meguiar's compound cleaner and all the scratches, haze and spots disappeared.

Think Meguiars should have called it "piano black gloss restorer"...
Yeah you got really good results, might be able to use it on the interior piano black plastics.

So no buffer but a buffing pad (microfiber cloth)? I've never used that exact macquires, but other compounds I've only used by machine and they normally stain rubber so I mask off the rubbers.
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