Eibach GT Pro-Kit Lowering Springs on a GTPE

[Jerrytball]

Talked to the guys that did my tires and wheels. I guess I’m gonna go ahead and order this and have them do the job. So somebody that knows what they’re doing which they do because they just redid a whole Lamborghini, I’m assuming they’re good at how much labor do you think hour wise?

Lowering Pro-Kit
Mustang Mach-E GT (not recommended for GTPE but I installed them on mine)
Part# E10-35-054-04-22 Pro-Kit
Front – 148-235 lbs/in (progressive)
Rear – 799-1089 lbs/in (progressive)
Lowers: 1.4" Front, 1.3" Rear

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[tuminatr]

Ordered them today, looks like Eibach springs are on sale until this Friday the 12th.

One question on programing the VCM is it a general change that is applied or is it necessary to measure things on the car? I will see if a local forum member can do it even If I need to pay for their time.

 

[azerik]

Everyone looking great over in this thread too!

 

[markboris]

Ordered them today, looks like Eibach springs are on sale until this Friday the 12th.

One question on programing the VCM is it a general change that is applied or is it necessary to measure things on the car? I will see if a local forum member can do it even If I need to pay for their time.

Brian, The VDM calibration is like 15 seconds. Connect FDRS to your car, choose VDM calibration. The car needs to be on level ground, no passengers or cargo (including driver) and hit START. 15 seconds later it is done.

 

[23macheGT]

There is a thread on Eibach lift springs that Pat posted (https://www.macheforum.com/site/thr...bach-front-rear-lift-springs-sway-bars.32640/) so I thought I would start one on their lowering springs and more specifically on a GTPE. I've had several members ask me how I was able to lower the GTPE with MagneRide suspension when Eibach and H&R (another manufacturer with lowering springs) do not recommend using their GT springs on the GTPE.

Without going into a lot of suspension detail, here's a quick explanation of why these lowering springs are not recommended for the GTPE's MagneRide. Shocks/struts have bump stops and their job is to cushion the shock/strut before it bottoms out when your car is loaded down and/or going over large bumps. When you lower a car, the end of your shock/strut becomes closer to the bump stop which means it will be contacting it more often. Eibach's solution to this is to replace the OEM bump stops with shorter ones which they supply with their lowering springs. H&R also sells lowering springs and their solution is for you to cut the OEM bump stops to make them shorter. Bump stops are generally made of a rubber type material.

The reason these lowering springs are NOT recommended for the GTPE with MagneRide is the bump stops on the fronts struts are internal and not accessible at all. The rear shocks have external bump stops but to get to them, you have to disassemble the electrical connection (not easy) at the top of the shock to remove the dust shield that contains the bump stop. Since you are not able to replace them on the front and they are not easily replaced on the rear, those bump stops will be contacting the end of the shocks/struts more often when the car is loaded down or going over large bumps. These bump stops are necessary because without them, you will damage your shocks and other suspension components if the car bottoms out. Also, once you change the static height of the car with a MagneRide suspension, you need to recalibrate the height setting in the VDM (Vehicle Dynamics Module). It is an easy 5 minute job as long as you have access to FDRS otherwise you will need to bring it in to your dealer and they will charge you to do this.

Why did I install lowering springs not recommended on a MagneRide suspension?
I wanted to lower the car a bit more from how it came from the factory. The only option right now is the lowering springs from Eibach and H&R. I cannot recommend the H&R lowering springs as once I installed them, the rear of the car was slightly lower (1/4") than the front. I thought it was very odd but then I read this is what others were experiencing so I used spacers in the rear to bring it up 1/2" so that the rear was 1/4" higher than the front. After I installed the Eibach springs they were perfect. The rear is 1/4" higher than the front. The car height with the Eibach springs are 1/4" lower all around than the H&R's. As the car sits now, measuring from the ground to the top/center of the fender moulding, the front is 29" and rear is 29 1/4". Overall, I have a 1" drop all around from stock height. This is less than what Eibach states the drop will be on their website but I'll take it.

How does it handle with the Eibach lowering springs?
First, I want to say I don't use the MME as an SUV meaning it will never go off road and I never load it down with cargo or 5 passengers. 99% of the time I'm in the car alone but on occasion I may have one or two passengers. Also, I don't expect this car to be a sports car or want to turn it into one. I already have one of those however, I do want the MME to handle better than it did from the factory. When taking slight turns, the OEM and H&R springs feel a little better because they are linear with a higher spring rate than the lower end of the progressive spring rate of the Eibach's. The Eibach's are a bit mushy and you loose that crispness on slight steering input but when pushed hard in a corner, the higher spring rate of the Eibach's progressive end kicks in and the car handles a bit better than the H&R's and OEM springs. Not sure if this makes sense but it is the best way I can explain.

NOTE: Replacing the front and rear sway bars were the best mod I (and many others here) could have done (and did). The car handles much flatter now and I highly recommend the Eibach sway bars. https://www.macheforum.com/site/threads/eibach-sway-bars-now-avalable-for-the-mach-e.30162/

How is the ride with the Eibach lowering springs?
Now that I've had them in for while and recently (two days ago) rode in another member's stock GTPE, I can say they definitely ride a bit smoother. I cannot comment on the bounce issue since the GTPE with MagneRide keeps it to a minimum compared to the non-MagneRide MME. I am talking about overall road imperfections and because the Eibach lowering springs for the GT are progressive, the ride is definitely softer. When I had the H&R linear springs on the car, it felt like the OEM GTPE springs which are a bit more harsh. The OEM springs are also linear.

As far as the bump stops go, of course I couldn't change the front ones but I did shorten the rear ones by cutting them as per H&R's directions. I had the H&R lowering springs on the car for over a year and never had an issue with the car frequently hitting the bump stops. But like I said, I rarely have a big load and or 5 passengers. Now that I have the Eibach springs on the car, I just left the shortened bump stops in the rear and did not use the Eibach ones that came with the springs. Still have not had any issues. Yes when I go over larger bumps especially in the front, I can feel it contact the bump stop but this is not unusual.

Overall, I'm extremely happy with the Eibach springs. I don't mind giving up the sportiness of initial steering for a softer ride but the car handles better than stock when pushed.

Eibach has been looking for someone with a GTPE to develop springs for (800-507-2338, Corona CA). I would imagine that since the bump stops can't be replaced in the front, they might be making a linear spring of a very high load rate so as not to contact the bump stop often. That is only my guess on this. Originally I was excited about them looking into developing springs for the GTPE but after having their GT springs on my car, I'm not sure I would want to go to a more firm ride if that is what they are going after. We will see. It takes me only a few hours to replace the springs and I've done it quite a few times so I may end up testing them out anyway if they do come out with a set for the GTPE.

NOTE: A member is coming to my place in two weeks to install the Eibach lift springs on his Premium. It will be very interesting to see how raising the car will affect the ride. The Eibach lift springs are linear and close to the OEM spring rate so not sure what it will be like but we'll find out.

Eibach spring rate info:

Lowering Pro-Kit
Mustang Mach-E AWD (except GT)
Part# E10-35-054-03-22 Pro-Kit
Front – 160-220 lbs/in (progressive)
Rear – 1000 lbs/in (linear)
STD. Bat. Lowers: 0.9"Front, 0.8" Rear
EXT. Bat. Lowers: 1.2" Front, 0.9" Rear

Lowering Sportline
Mustang Mach-E AWD (except GT)
Part# E20-35-054-01-22 Sportline Kit (lower and stiffer than Pro-Kit springs)
Front – 143-235 lbs/in (progressive)
Rear – 800-1089 lbs/in (progressive)
STD. Bat. Lowers: 1.1" Front, 1.2" Rear
EXT. Bat. Lowers: 1.8" Front, 1.6" Rear

Lowering Pro-Kit
Mustang Mach-E GT (not recommended for GTPE but I installed them on mine)
Part# E10-35-054-04-22 Pro-Kit
Front – 148-235 lbs/in (progressive)
Rear – 799-1089 lbs/in (progressive)
Lowers: 1.4" Front, 1.3" Rear

Lifting Pro-Kit
Mustang Mach-E AWD (except GT)
Part# E30-35-054-01-22 Pro-Kit
Front – 200 lbs/in (linear) (I've been told these front and rear lift spring rates are similar to OEM spring rates)
Rear – 950 lbs/in (linear)
EXT. Bat. Raises: 1.5" Front, 1.5" Rear
STD. Bat Raises: 1.8” Front, 1.8” Rear

EDIT: Alignment
You must bring the car in for an alignment after you install any springs that change the ride height. The camber can be adjusted in the rear of the car but not in the front without changing the strut to wheel knuckle bolts. The factory bolts are splined so that there is no adjustment. In the Ford Mach-E repair manual, it states if you want to adjust the front camber, you need to replace the bolts with standard, non-splined bolts which will allow some adjustment to set the camber properly when raising or lowering the car. The bolts required are 5/8" x 3 1/2" grade 8 plus nuts and two washers per bolt. If you want to make it easier on the alignment tech, you can purchase adjustable camber bolts and just replace the top bolts. It is more expensive to do it this way but easier to align. Below are photos of the 5/8" (16mm) bolts and the adjustable camber bolt kit.

Below are photos of the OEM, H&R and Eibach springs. While this does not mean anything because of design and spring rates, the Eibach springs are taller than both the OEM and H&R's but when installed, have the lowest ride height.

Front H&R and OEM Springs

Front Eibach and H&R springs

Rear H&R and OEM springs

Rear H&R and Eibach springs

Eibach's front and rear shortened bump stops

Stock height

Lowered height

Hey Mark.

I just recent got the spring and away bars and is planning to have it install soon. I’m thinking about getting the camber bolts install at the same time. I noticed the 81280 you mentioned is grade 8 but online the SPC 81280 is grade 2 on Amazon. Is that ok?

 

[markboris]

Hey Mark.

I just recent got the spring and away bars and is planning to have it install soon. I’m thinking about getting the camber bolts install at the same time. I noticed the 81280 you mentioned is grade 8 but online the SPC 81280 is grade 2 on Amazon. Is that ok?

Amazon is wrong. Just so you know, while the OEM bolts are to he torqued to 150 lbs ft., the SPC bolts can only be torqued to 125. Make sure they use a torque wrench instead of an impact.

 

[23macheGT]

Amazon is wrong. Just so you know, while the OEM bolts are to he torqued to 150 lbs ft., the SPC bolts can only be torqued to 125. Make sure they use a torque wrench instead of an impact.

Thanks Mark

 

[markboris]

Thanks Mark

https://www.spcalignment.com/component/spc/?task=part_description&pid=81280

 

[phil]

Since installing the Eibach lowering springs, I have heard a clunk/rattle noise as the car turns. I had the dealer check it out while the car was in for a software patch, and they first diagnosed a bad axle shaft which is apparently fairly common on the Mach-E. But after replacing the axle shaft, the noise remained during turns.

Mechanic then advised that the noise was due to having lowered the car. The Mach-E was not designed to operate at the lower height, and it changes some "angles" enough to cause parts ("knuckles") to come into contact during turns when they would not contact at the standard height. I couldn't get a complete technical explanation, and I didn't fully understand.

Any advice, or experience with this noise while turning? I could have the original springs reinstalled, but I do like the Eibachs better. Or I could just leave it alone - the dealer advised it's not dangerous and will not cause any damage over time.

 

[markboris]

Since installing the Eibach lowering springs, I have heard a clunk/rattle noise as the car turns. I had the dealer check it out while the car was in for a software patch, and they first diagnosed a bad axle shaft which is apparently fairly common on the Mach-E. But after replacing the axle shaft, the noise remained during turns.

Mechanic then advised that the noise was due to having lowered the car. The Mach-E was not designed to operate at the lower height, and it changes some "angles" enough to cause parts ("knuckles") to come into contact during turns when they would not contact at the standard height. I couldn't get a complete technical explanation, and I didn't fully understand.

Any advice, or experience with this noise while turning? I could have the original springs reinstalled, but I do like the Eibachs better. Or I could just leave it alone - the dealer advised it's not dangerous and will not cause any damage over time.

Phil, I had H&R lowering springs on the car two years ago then last year changed to the Eibach’s. So I’ve run at least two years with the car lowered and have never had noises of any kind. I’ve also installed these lowering springs on a GTPE and believe other members have too. Maybe others can chime in. First I’ve heard of this that lowering the car one inch will cause issues. Lot of Mach-E’s out there that are lowered.

 

[phil]

First I’ve heard of this that lowering the car one inch will cause issues. Lot of Mach-E’s out there that are lowered.

Same here, I have seen no reports of this on the forum. FYI, mine is a GT Regular, not PE, but I would think that should be easier, if anything.

I'll ask my springs installer guy to take a look, see if he can find anything that might be causing the rattling.

 

[azerik]

axle shaft which is apparently fairly common on the Mach-E.

I think my right shaft is taking a dive again (they were replaced in March 23) it doesn't make noise but I can feel it and see it in the steering wheel.
Get a video of the noise?

(I'm still hunting for an option to bring the rear camber to ~0. My own personal peeve with ever so slightly out of round wheel(s) The dealer had dialed out my issues to very barely noticeable when the camber was at 0 all around. I think the inner lip of the wheels is my nemesis.)

 

[tuminatr]

I think my right shaft is taking a dive again (they were replaced in March 23) it doesn't make noise but I can feel it and see it in the steering wheel.
Get a video of the noise?

(I'm still hunting for an option to bring the rear camber to ~0. My own personal peeve with ever so slightly out of round wheel(s) The dealer had dialed out my issues to very barely noticeable when the camber was at 0 all around. I think the inner lip of the wheels is my nemesis.)

Get the wheels straightened, where I live there is a guy who does it for $80 a wheel or two for $150 and includes balancing your tires. YMMV on the price

 

[azerik]

Get the wheels straightened, where I live there is a guy who does it for $80 a wheel or two for $150 and includes balancing your tires. YMMV on the price

I've tried. Wheel Specialist told me it was so minimal it wasn't worth trying. (not to mention I'm only 1 short of a full other set, so in total I have 7 GT wheels that have been flipped flopped rotated, swapped, balanced, road forced, 7 Conti GT's and now brand new Pzero's, and a full brake job with new rotors) I'm told it's not the wheels or the tires, but my backyard says otherwise. (and still 3 19 inch wheels as well) Shoulda just bought HRE's to start.
/hijack over

 

[tuminatr]

I've tried. Wheel Specialist told me it was so minimal it wasn't worth trying. (not to mention I'm only 1 short of a full other set, so in total I have 7 GT wheels that have been flipped flopped rotated, swapped, balanced, road forced, 7 Conti GT's and now brand new Pzero's, and a full brake job with new rotors) I'm told it's not the wheels or the tires, but my backyard says otherwise. (and still 3 19 inch wheels as well) Shoulda just bought HRE's to start.
/hijack over

One odd thing to consider most tire manufacturers mark the high and low spots on the tires. I had a set that vibrated and that was the cause.

https://www.tirebusiness.com/articl...color-coded-sidewall-markings-serve-a-purpose

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