Front Caliper not engaging after Rotor and Pads Replaced

[Guywithfx]

Just wrapped up replacing both rotors and pads on my wife’s 23 premium all-wheel-drive. Took it for a test drive in immediately noticed that only the front driver side caliper is engaging. Got out to check in. My fears were confirmed with zero wear on the passenger side rotor. Pulled the car back in and inspected only to find there is no contact between the pads and rotor on the passenger side, even with the brake pedal smashed and pumped. There are 25,000 miles on the car and it drives great other than the horrible OEM rotors that warped very quickly. The car now has a few errors as well for one pedal driving, brake system, error, advanced, track, error, etc. I’m worried there is something in the ABS brain or pump that has a fault thrown that is causing it to not get any pressure since the caliper was functioning perfectly before swapping out the pads. No air was introduced to the system. I also gave the caliper a few gentle taps as well to see if anything was stuck.

I am at a bit of a loss right now and not sure how this perfectly fine caliper is now suddenly frozen? Is there anything else I can look at or a way to reset the Drive systems or have them do some self checks to regulate the pressure in the brake system? my local Ford dealership damaged the car last time it was in for recall work and we’re not fans of taking it back. I do have a FORScan tool, but I don’t think that’s going to get to the depth that I need. Any insight would be greatly appreciated. Love all the support here.

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[AllTheThings55]

Just wrapped up replacing both rotors and pads on my wife’s 23 premium all-wheel-drive. Took it for a test drive in immediately noticed that only the front driver side caliper is engaging. Got out to check in. My fears were confirmed with zero wear on the passenger side rotor. Pulled the car back in and inspected only to find there is no contact between the pads and rotor on the passenger side, even with the brake pedal smashed and pumped. There are 25,000 miles on the car and it drives great other than the horrible OEM rotors that warped very quickly. The car now has a few errors as well for one pedal driving, brake system, error, advanced, track, error, etc. I’m worried there is something in the ABS brain or pump that has a fault thrown that is causing it to not get any pressure since the caliper was functioning perfectly before swapping out the pads. No air was introduced to the system. I also gave the caliper a few gentle taps as well to see if anything was stuck.

I am at a bit of a loss right now and not sure how this perfectly fine caliper is now suddenly frozen? Is there anything else I can look at or a way to reset the Drive systems or have them do some self checks to regulate the pressure in the brake system? my local Ford dealership damaged the car last time it was in for recall work and we’re not fans of taking it back. I do have a FORScan tool, but I don’t think that’s going to get to the depth that I need. Any insight would be greatly appreciated. Love all the support here.

Did you put it in brake/service mode before you started?

 

[LocoEngineer]

Did you put it in brake/service mode before you started?

Is this necessary for working on the front brakes?

 

[Teslaeata]

Yes!

there’s information from another post below but I’d start by clearing all your DTCs with a diagnostic tool, enter into service mode, then take out of service mode and see what happens.

Quote:

Because the MME doesn’t follow the normal rules for getting into and out of brake service mode, here is a plain language version adapted from the tech manual.
First, a couple caveats. You will not be able to enter or exit Brake Service mode if you have any fault codes pertaining to the brakes. These must be cleared with a diagnostic computer first. If you don’t have one, and you have faults, you‘re SOL. Bleeding the brakes also requires a diagnostic computer, so really don’t open the brake line. Caliper pistons can be compressed without needing a brake winding tool. The procedure calls for the ignition to be in the “on” position. I still don’t know if that means “on” as in accessory mode, or on as in “Ready to drive” mode. The tech I spoke with said either would work. But here’s the simple Version:

To enter Brake Service Mode:
1. Car turned “on” and in park.
2. Hold the accelorator down. Do not release until told to.
3. Hold the parking brake switch DOWN. Do not release until told to.
4. Turn the car off.
5. Turn the car “on” within 5 seconds.
6. Release the accelerator pedal and parking brake switch.
7. Get out of car.
8. Slap the side of the car while saying aloud, “Well I’ll be, that guy on the interweb was right.”
9. Enjoy your brake work.

To cancel/escape/leave/or otherwise deactivate Brake Service Mode
1. Car turned “on” and in park.
2. Hold the accelerator down. Do not release until told to.
3. Hold the parking brake switch UP. Do not release until told to.
4. Press the brake pedal down for at least 1 second.
5. Release the brake pedal (continue holding the accelerator and parking brake switch)
6. Turn the car off,
7. Turn the car back “on” within 5 seconds.
8. Release the accelerator and parking brake switch.
9. Get out of car.
10. Clean the greasy finger splotches off the start/stop switch and the parking brake switch. You really should have cleaned your hands before deactivating brake service mode.

 

[Teslaeata]

The ideal thing is to follow Manufacturer’s specified repair method rather than rely on forum posts unless you can validate what they say.

 

[LocoEngineer]

I've performed brake repairs on vehicles with electronic rear brake calipers, so I'm familiar with that...but never once have I run into needing to put a vehicle in brake service mode to service the front brakes. For my future knowledge, is there documentation from Ford saying this is required for the front brakes?

 

[RickMachE]

I've performed brake repairs on vehicles with electronic rear brake calipers, so I'm familiar with that...but never once have I run into needing to put a vehicle in brake service mode to service the front brakes. For my future knowledge, is there documentation from Ford saying this is required for the front brakes?

https://www.macheforum.com/site/threads/brake-service-mode-how-to.5203/#post-924378

 

[LocoEngineer]

https://www.macheforum.com/site/threads/brake-service-mode-how-to.5203/#post-924378

This is the post your link takes me to:

The main issue requiring brake service mode is the electric parking brake which engages automatically. If you don’t enter service mode, the parking brake will have the pads hard against the rotor and you won’t be able to get the caliper off to change the pads. Service mode disabled this allowing you to freely remove the caliper, change the pads and rotors if needed, then put it all back together.
Worse than that, you could dummy it up like me, and have a front caliper off when you turn the car on, at which time the car automatically applies the brakes on startup. I blew the piston right out of a front caliper because there was no pads or rotor to stop it. Then it had to go to the dealer to be bled after I got it back together. And it was only sheer luck that the seal didn’t get ruined.

I'm not seeing that, #1, this is the problem he had, and #2, the need to put the brakes in service mode to service the front brakes. It's brake work 101 that you don't start the car or apply the press the brake pedal with a caliper removed.

I'm still holding out for Ford documentation that says brake service mode is required to service the front brakes.

 

[AliRafiee]

Yes!

there’s information from another post below but I’d start by clearing all your DTCs with a diagnostic tool, enter into service mode, then take out of service mode and see what happens.

Quote:

Because the MME doesn’t follow the normal rules for getting into and out of brake service mode, here is a plain language version adapted from the tech manual.
First, a couple caveats. You will not be able to enter or exit Brake Service mode if you have any fault codes pertaining to the brakes. These must be cleared with a diagnostic computer first. If you don’t have one, and you have faults, you‘re SOL. Bleeding the brakes also requires a diagnostic computer, so really don’t open the brake line. Caliper pistons can be compressed without needing a brake winding tool. The procedure calls for the ignition to be in the “on” position. I still don’t know if that means “on” as in accessory mode, or on as in “Ready to drive” mode. The tech I spoke with said either would work. But here’s the simple Version:

To enter Brake Service Mode:
1. Car turned “on” and in park.
2. Hold the accelorator down. Do not release until told to.
3. Hold the parking brake switch DOWN. Do not release until told to.
4. Turn the car off.
5. Turn the car “on” within 5 seconds.
6. Release the accelerator pedal and parking brake switch.
7. Get out of car.
8. Slap the side of the car while saying aloud, “Well I’ll be, that guy on the interweb was right.”
9. Enjoy your brake work.

To cancel/escape/leave/or otherwise deactivate Brake Service Mode
1. Car turned “on” and in park.
2. Hold the accelerator down. Do not release until told to.
3. Hold the parking brake switch UP. Do not release until told to.
4. Press the brake pedal down for at least 1 second.
5. Release the brake pedal (continue holding the accelerator and parking brake switch)
6. Turn the car off,
7. Turn the car back “on” within 5 seconds.
8. Release the accelerator and parking brake switch.
9. Get out of car.
10. Clean the greasy finger splotches off the start/stop switch and the parking brake switch. You really should have cleaned your hands before deactivating brake service mode.

How hands and feet does Ford think I have?

 

[rreddy3]

This is the post your link takes me to:

The main issue requiring brake service mode is the electric parking brake which engages automatically. If you don’t enter service mode, the parking brake will have the pads hard against the rotor and you won’t be able to get the caliper off to change the pads. Service mode disabled this allowing you to freely remove the caliper, change the pads and rotors if needed, then put it all back together.
Worse than that, you could dummy it up like me, and have a front caliper off when you turn the car on, at which time the car automatically applies the brakes on startup. I blew the piston ri"ght out of a front caliper because there was no pads or rotor to stop it. Then it had to go to the dealer to be bled after I got it back together. And it was only sheer luck that the seal didn’t get ruined.

I'm not seeing that, #1, this is the problem he had, and #2, the need to put the brakes in service mode to service the front brakes. It's brake work 101 that you don't start the car or apply the press the brake pedal with a caliper removed.

I'm still holding out for Ford documentation that says brake service mode is required to service the front brakes.

This thread is interesting and made me curious, so I scrounged around the shop manual. I admit I could be wrong and misreading things, but it seems to me the Ford shop manual is pretty clear that the brake service mode has to be activated before working on the front (or rear) brakes.

In the shop manual under "Front disk brake" -> "Brake caliper", instruction #1 is "Activate the brake service mode." [all righty then ....]

The following warning also appears in a few places in the brake sections of the shop manual,

" WARNING: Service actions on vehicles equipped with electronic brake booster without activating the brake system service mode may result in unexpected hydraulic brake application or a false leak detection DTC. This will significantly reduce the performance of the brake system. Failure to follow this instruction may result in serious personal injury. "

In the shop manual, the above quote follows the warning mentioning electronic parking brakes previously mentioned or quoted in other posts on this thread.

My understanding is the Mach E has an electronic brake booster. I would infer the above warning applies to the brakes at all four corners since they're all, presumably, electronically boosted.

My take aways include the following: the Mach E is a complicated car; I'm not messing with the brakes on this thing; I'll bite the bullet and take it to the Ford store; the brake system on the Mach E is several light years more advanced and complicated than the Girling hydraulic drum brakes on the '57 Morgan that shares garage space with the Mach E. Biggest hassle on the old Girlings is wrestling the various springs back in place on the shoes with a funky brake spring tool or needle nose pliers.

For those undertaking their own brake work on the Mach E, more power to you.

 

[Guywithfx]

Really appreciate all the input. I didn’t engage brake service mode beforehand. Like many have mentioned that is *typically* just for rear electric parking brake disengagement. The latest details referencing the electronically assisted brake booster now give me awareness to one of the potential new components/technologies that need to be handled accordingly and brake service mode could’ve prevented this situation. I will try to reset as much as I can with my ForSCAN obd2 tool but I’m worried it wont have all the necessary features. Any other tips on resetting the DTCs and such?
I’ll post back in an hour with an update on what I am able to reset and next steps.

 

[LocoEngineer]

This thread is interesting and made me curious, so I scrounged around the shop manual. I admit I could be wrong and misreading things, but it seems to me the Ford shop manual is pretty clear that the brake service mode has to be activated before working on the front (or rear) brakes.

In the shop manual under "Front disk brake" -> "Brake caliper", instruction #1 is "Activate the brake service mode." [all righty then ....]

The following warning also appears in a few places in the brake sections of the shop manual,

" WARNING: Service actions on vehicles equipped with electronic brake booster without activating the brake system service mode may result in unexpected hydraulic brake application or a false leak detection DTC. This will significantly reduce the performance of the brake system. Failure to follow this instruction may result in serious personal injury. "

In the shop manual, the above quote follows the warning mentioning electronic parking brakes previously mentioned or quoted in other posts on this thread.

My understanding is the Mach E has an electronic brake booster. I would infer the above warning applies to the brakes at all four corners since they're all, presumably, electronically boosted.

My take aways include the following: the Mach E is a complicated car; I'm not messing with the brakes on this thing; I'll bite the bullet and take it to the Ford store; the brake system on the Mach E is several light years more advanced and complicated than the Girling hydraulic drum brakes on the '57 Morgan that shares garage space with the Mach E. Biggest hassle on the old Girlings is wrestling the various springs back in place on the shoes with a funky brake spring tool or needle nose pliers.

For those undertaking their own brake work on the Mach E, more power to you.

Thank you for this, rreddy3. Much appreciated! But...and I know the owner's manual is not the service manual...look at how this reads: screenshot attached. To me, that reads brake service mode is for retracting (and holding) the electronic application of the rear brake caliper to allow for brake service.

What you read is probably right though. Good information!

 

[Guywithfx]

Got up and running with FORScan. Was able to see a number of ABS DTCs. I went ahead and reset the ABS Module and ALL various errors were gone after a restart. Love that this only cost $20 for FORScan compared to hundreds of dollars for VAGCOM on VW/Audi. I have a plethora of proprietary cables for all my previous cars…

The last thing I have noticed is a subtle tick/knock sound coming from the Front Driverside wheel well. It is vehicle speed dependent and only apparent above ~5mph. It is subtle enough that it sounds almost like a rock stuck in the tire tread. I’m going to check out the tire and then remove the wheel to try and spin that corner by hand to see if there is any rotational interference. Not sure what it could be since there’s only really 3 bolts I touched in there. The single 8mm for the brake line stay bracket, and the two bolts that secure the caliper to the knuckle.

Anyone had rotational noise after a front brake job?

 

[areacode413]

I get the right to repair things. Probably did 4 break Jobs’s on my old Altima in the 19 years I drove it. After reading this the pita factor seems just too high for me to bother to do a Mach e break job myself. Are the new break systems less forgiving than those from y2k? The older models did not need any foreskin tool.

 

[rreddy3]

Got up and running with FORScan. Was able to see a number of ABS DTCs. I went ahead and reset the ABS Module and ALL various errors were gone after a restart. Love that this only cost $20 for FORScan compared to hundreds of dollars for VAGCOM on VW/Audi. I have a plethora of proprietary cables for all my previous cars…

The last thing I have noticed is a subtle tick/knock sound coming from the Front Driverside wheel well. It is vehicle speed dependent and only apparent above ~5mph. It is subtle enough that it sounds almost like a rock stuck in the tire tread. I’m going to check out the tire and then remove the wheel to try and spin that corner by hand to see if there is any rotational interference. Not sure what it could be since there’s only really 3 bolts I touched in there. The single 8mm for the brake line stay bracket, and the two bolts that secure the caliper to the knuckle.

Anyone had rotational noise after a front brake job?

I am glad to hear you got things sorted out with code clearing and resetting! I don’t have any input on bit of noise you hear from the L front corner. Hopefully it’s just a stone in the tread and not an 8mm socket or wrench left hanging on the caliper?.

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