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Yes, compatible Tesla Superchargers will use plug and charge. If you don’t want to use that, you’ll need the Tesla app. Anyone can sign up on the app. As far as the other fast chargers, if they’re not Electrify America, you’ll need an app. Most fast chargers don’t have a swipe to pay option...

You will always get what the battery state, driving conditions, driving habits, and weather allow. The range is a guess based on the history of those factors.

Use that B2B warranty. If you break it trying to “fix” it, they may not cover it.

Google the codes and they’ll give recommended actions. Your ask was for which error had disabled your battery. I googled the code that is responsible, and it lists the action needed. You’ll want to look up the rest of the codes as well.

You can Google these codes to find what they mean. Search each code for their meaning. From searching “ford B11D5”: Ford diagnostic trouble code B11D5 indicates a "Restraints Event - Vehicle Disabled" fault. It signifies that the Restraints Control Module (RCM) has detected a crash or severe...

There is probably a fuse you can pull, but the way I’ve done it is to pull the 12v negative (after the car has been off for about 15 minutes) and reconnect after a few minutes. That’ll reset all the modules if something got hung. Only had to do this once so far in three years.

That’s not normal and there is no common issue that would require a sloppy DIY job like that. Maybe some clips on the cover broke? See what the dealer comes back with. The mechanics are probably stripped and it’ll need to be fully replaced. It’s ~$900 new (less if used)

Yes. I got this months ago. 2023.0. Extends it to the end of my Options lease. I love it, but I don’t use it enough to justify the price after year 4

It’s part of the 5yr drivetrain warranty. The 8yr part covers the battery and motors.

2023 Premium - I got the same extension. Lots got it, there are many discussions on this forum.

It specifically makes you pay attention or it disconnects (that’s the eye watching module on the top of the steering column). Look away too often and it disconnects BC. I use it a few times a week in traffic and it’s awesome!

Personally, I use BC in heavy traffic and almost anytime I’m on the highway. It’s been flawless for me. I really appreciate it. Though, I probably won’t subscribe when it expires in 2027. Not enough use for the cost.

Varies by state. I’m all for drivers under 18 to only drive themselves.

Drive modes don’t really affect range. They change steering and accelerator mapping. Driving style affects it more (acceleration, speed). Keep it under 75 for best efficiency on the highway.

The Primacy A/S tires are OEM for a reason. Get those and you’ll have the same performance as stock. The CC2’s are OEM on the Rally edition but I’ve read on multiple EV forums that there is around a 10% loss using the CC2’s vs the Primacy. Also, CC2’s are directional, so you can’t rotate them...

That’s the total registration for a full EV. Age, model, etc don’t matter.

https://www.macheforum.com/site/threads/carplay-disconnects-in-the-same-place-all-the-time.33932/ Also some discussions on Apple’s support site. Try turning off BT and WiFi on your phone, connect wired, and see if it still happens. Most discussions are about wireless CarPlay and possible...

Agreed, also troubleshoot back to the reservoir.

It’s disconnected / broken / blocked hose. Look for a puddle to help determine the location. Reconnect / replace.

Mmmm. Sonic. Don’t ignore that notification!