Are there instructions for removing the frunk bin?

[louibluey]

I was looking around a little and gently pulling off some panels with trim tools. Wouldn't mind having a look with bin completely out, if it's not to destructive.

I am back to thinking about 12V LVB start cables in the bumper if there is a clear path. It would be a lot easier to safely route them with the bin out.

I see what people are saying about losing snap fasteners. It went well in the garage, taking my time and being gentle with trim tools. I would not want to be pulling those panels out in a rain or snow storm in some parking lot!

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[BDC]

I was looking around a little and gently pulling off some panels with trim tools. Wouldn't mind having a look with bin completely out, if it's not to destructive.

I am back to thinking about 12V LVB start cables in the bumper if there is a clear path. It would be a lot easier to safely route them with the bin out.

I see what people are saying about losing snap fasteners. It went well in the garage, taking my time and being gentle with trim tools. I would not want to be pulling those panels out in a rain or snow storm in some parking lot!

There is a forum post about it: https://www.macheforum.com/site/threads/how-to-remove-mach-e-frunk-divider-diy-writeup.3953/

Caveat, I have not tried it yet. Mainly because I don't have my car yet

 

[BDC]

There is a forum post about it: https://www.macheforum.com/site/threads/how-to-remove-mach-e-frunk-divider-diy-writeup.3953/

Caveat, I have not tried it yet. Mainly because I don't have my car yet

And now that I actually read what you typed ... never mind. You want the bin, not the divider.

 

[louibluey]

Right, but thank you for looking for an answer. There is at least a front trim strip that pops off easy with two bolts in the front. The back is a little more complicated, some odd fasteners that I did not quite get, I think they rotate off, but not sure if it is destructive or not.

Maybe there is enough bin removal here, I almost forgot about this one:
https://www.macheforum.com/site/threads/official-instructions-to-replace-the-12v-battery-lvb.3882/

It looks more complicated than I had hoped, maybe a good project for a 60+ degree day in sunlight.

 

[dtbaker61]

Right, but thank you for looking for an answer. There is at least a front trim strip that pops off easy with two bolts in the front. The back is a little more complicated, some odd fasteners that I did not quite get, I think they rotate off, but not sure if it is destructive or not.

Maybe there is enough bin removal here, I almost forgot about this one:
https://www.macheforum.com/site/threads/official-instructions-to-replace-the-12v-battery-lvb.3882/

It looks more complicated than I had hoped, maybe a good project for a 60+ degree day in sunlight.

there ARE shop instructions for removing the entire Frunk bin... which requires removing the back and side 'beauty covers' first. It's actually quite a process, and I'd guess a good solid half-hour of popping off fasteners by the time you get it all the way out.

I plan to document when I do it, but no need yet.... you can get super easy access to the actual LVB 'connection points' by drilling 2x 2" holes in the driver's side panel. I put a thread in the DIY section of the Forums....

 

[prdude]

I was looking around a little and gently pulling off some panels with trim tools. Wouldn't mind having a look with bin completely out, if it's not to destructive.

I am back to thinking about 12V LVB start cables in the bumper if there is a clear path. It would be a lot easier to safely route them with the bin out.

I see what people are saying about losing snap fasteners. It went well in the garage, taking my time and being gentle with trim tools. I would not want to be pulling those panels out in a rain or snow storm in some parking lot!

To remove the frunk bin, you first have to remove the three perimeter trim covers; these are all held in with pop-clamps, so i trim tool helps.

Then, there is a cover plate around the latch mechanism. Under this are a couple screws for which you'll need a torx bit. Then, there are I believe four cover plates down in the bin that hide a number of bolts (10mm heads??).

All in all, you should just need a trim tool, torx bit, 10mm socket and some time .... and a pair of work gloves wouldn't hurt

 

[louibluey]

I'm close, maybe tomorrow or this weekend. I would like to get those measurements on how much current/power/time it takes to open the motorized frunk latch using the bumper wires. Pulling fuse F72 should enable the wires, and allow for a simulated dead 12V LVB. Looks like easiest access to the fuse box is after the frunk tub is out. Wouldn't mind have a gander around inside too, just to look things over.

I wonder how bad it would be to just leave the plastic out for a while in terms of rain, road dirt, etc?

 

[dtbaker61]

I'm close, maybe tomorrow or this weekend. I would like to get those measurements on how much current/power/time it takes to open the motorized frunk latch using the bumper wires. Fuse F72 should enable the wires and allow for a simulated dead 12V LVB. Looks like easiest access to the fuse box is after the frunk tub is out. Wouldn't mind have a gander around inside too, just to look things over.

I wonder how bad it would be to just leave the plastic out for a while in terms of rain, road dirt, etc?

why do you want to store a 'jump' battery to open the frunk anywhere in your MME?

presumably, if the LVB dies, you are going to need a jump from some external source, and have a tow-truck, roadside service, or ANY other vehicle with a 12v battery and jumper cables passing by to 'jump your Frunk', and then 'jump your LVB'.

 

[louibluey]

why do you want to store a 'jump' battery to open the frunk anywhere in your MME? ...

[edited] 1) open frunk 2) jump start MME with any standard jump pack stored in frunk.

This all started weeks ago with the many posts about 9V batteries, and wondering if that would work.

But, there is a problem. Just about any energy source in the bumper, where there is a high probability of impact damage, is a potential liability and fire hazard in a worst possible place.

 

[AllenXS]

Did one side still in. Works well for the snow shows and hopefully Costco.

 

[louibluey]

Did one side still in. Works well for the snow shows and hopefully Costco.

The frunk removal was very easy for anyone who has worked with panels with auto fasteners, plastic covers, and trim tools. The most difficult part was on the passenger side forward, when one of those metal over plastic clips just would not pop. It probably got a little bent on assembly. Pushing on the side while lifting finally got it unclipped from the painted metal slot below.

On re-assembly, I was debating for putting only one side back, to put back just the right or left divider. I think @AllenXS found the best solution, not sure why, but the left one just feels right! I will load all the regular junk I carry around from the GB40 jump pack, 10mm wrench, etc. into the small compartment. It will be good to get rid of the plastic bin in the back, where after trade-in, I just unload all of that stuff plus the drivers cubby into a the bin (it has two cars worth now).

 

[AllenXS]

My father was a truck body builder and so I had learnt how to take the pins out. Although I have ruined a few over the years these were fairly easy.

Just the right amount of force with a screwdriver not to bend them. One side of the lug carefully supported by the thumb. Then the other side. Repeat process and it popped out easy.

I started with the right side and took two out from the left to pull out the centre piece. And having a coffee helped to make the process better.

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